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Does anybody happen to know what the gauge of wire used for the upper switches is? It's interesting that there are 2 25 amp circuits as well as 10 and 15 amp circuits with what appears to be 18 gauge stranded wire. I would've assumed that if they were planning on using stranded wire they would've preferred a 14 or at most 16 gauge to ensure minimal current loss and safety.
After just being under the dash of mine tonight I'd say 18g, at least for the 10 and 15 amp (3+4) switches. I *think* the wires for 1+2 may have been a bit thicker, maybe 16g. Either way I chose to use them just to power a relay for my wirelessAIR rather than using the factory wiring direct to the compressor. I've got an itch for one of the Rough Country lightbars that goes in the grill, and that I'd consider wiring direct to the upfitters.
Regardless, I agree, heavier wire would be more comforting.
I believe your right about the 16 and 18gauge. The ampacity of a conduct is calculated to a safety standard. There area lot of variables that go into how much current the wire can carry. Also the type of fuse that is used to protect the wire has an important role in what gauge you use.
Not to make this too long, I’ll provide links below.
The fuses are not the timed delayed typeso this allows the wire to have a higher current rating. So I agree this is why you might not feel comforting. The Ford documents states that max continuous load for the wires should be no more than 80% of the fuse rating. So to be on the comfort side, the circuits should not carry more 20, 8 and 12 amps.
I stubbed in 16g on mine just to be safe.. I am still p!$$ed that I had to get a back-ache that lasted more than a week by having to contort my upper body up under that dash...
There is just no reason they could not have supplied those stubs up by the parking brake area about 10" longer...
Grrrrr.....
I stubbed in 16g on mine just to be safe.. I am still p!$$ed that I had to get a back-ache that lasted more than a week by having to contort my upper body up under that dash...
There is just no reason they could not have supplied those stubs up by the parking brake area about 10" longer...
Grrrrr.....
I know it. And why not extend the stubs in the hood area another ft. Seriously, they think only 18yr olds at Best Buy work on these things.
Honestly, they should have ran a fused distribution block for each connection. There is a ton of space under the steering column and it would have made so much mo sense. That's what I ended up doing. I now have 6 independently (and conveniently) fused connections with screw terminals to work with.
I too noticed that the wire gage seemed kind of small. I ran a 12 gage wire from my compressor and connected it to the brown wire (Switch/Relay number 4). It looked at least two sizes smaller - 18 or 16 gage. It's been holding up though, a couple years now.
I know it. And why not extend the stubs in the hood area another ft. Seriously, they think only 18yr olds at Best Buy work on these things.
Honestly, they should have ran a fused distribution block for each connection. There is a ton of space under the steering column and it would have made so much mo sense. That's what I ended up doing. I now have 6 independently (and conveniently) fused connections with screw terminals to work with.
I also used the UF and passthru wires to control relays.
I am still p!$$ed that I had to get a back-ache that lasted more than a week by having to contort my upper body up under that dash...
There is just no reason they could not have supplied those stubs up by the parking brake area about 10" longer...
Grrrrr.....
Originally Posted by IronCobra
I know it. And why not extend the stubs in the hood area another ft.
Couldn't agree more on all of the above..!!!
Anyone notice the wire used seems to be a little different..?
The big amp circuits are 16, but its a 'different' 16...
Seems like the very thin insulator holds a nice size little bundle of strands...?
I don't know that exact wires rating, but you'd think/hope Ford exactly does.
The engineers their wouldn't let the bean counters undercut them on a clear cut wiring safety issue, would they..? That wire must be capable of handling the full current that the fuse will allow.
Wonder what the voltage drop is for a set of lights in the bumper run off #1 aux/pass thru spliced to marine #16 at the fuse box/firewall down to the driving lights..?
...
Wonder what the voltage drop is for a set of lights in the bumper run off #1 aux/pass thru spliced to marine #16 at the fuse box/firewall down to the driving lights..?
jmo
thats why I used the UF/PT wire to control a relay, powered directly from the battery.. no concerns with voltage drop
I stubbed in 16g on mine just to be safe.. I am still p!$$ed that I had to get a back-ache that lasted more than a week by having to contort my upper body up under that dash...
There is just no reason they could not have supplied those stubs up by the parking brake area about 10" longer...
Grrrrr.....
Understand the upfits will be up and over the rear view mirror, so access will not be easy (as if it is), hopefully they have wired down to a box and numbered the terminals.
My wife is a size 2, not a big gal and after she wired in my extra cameras she said NO MORE. So I had Jennings Anderson Ford my local dealer just install the Fast idle switch for her. $150 incl switch!
Not bragging but, I'm 68 and put12" extensions on the pass thrus and upfitters. Ford should have made it easier but it's not life threatening. What I found is that once your twisted under there do them all and you don't have to go back.
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