Hi thanks to everyone that has helped me in the past. Getting ready to start putting things back together from my (fix some leaks project) and could use some guidance a handful of items.

Forgive me for some dumb questions here, as well as probably calling things by incorrect names, again new to working on engines.

Need to know how many ft lbs torgue to apply on some of these items when putting back together. the book is not overly helpful.

I have a 1979 F150 4x4 ext cap with a 351M engine & C6 transmission

Transmission pan? Book says to put it on "securely", which I am confident I can do, but I don't want to over tighten and pinch a gasket, so in measurable terms, how many ft lbs on some of these items? If it really is just bolt on and make it snug on some of these, that is fine, just wanted to check with the folks on here that have done it before.

Transmission pan?
Oil Pan?
Bolts on the metal retainer that holds in/covers the rear main seal? U shaped.
Timing chain/gear cover?
Bolt holding offset cup on the front of timing gear that pushes the fuel pump?
Water pump?
Mechanical fuel pump?
Bolts for the water neck?
Exhaust manifold bolts?
main bolt for the harmonic balancer?

Also, after putting it back together, how long should I let RTV, etc set up and cure before I fill with fluids and start the engine and let it get hot?

thanks again everyone!

 

Ok, found the ft lbs for the transmission pan, 12-16 pounds. located in the book under replacing the fluid, not where I was looking under "installation" where it said.."securely"

What are your thoughts on the other items? any help here appreciated.

 

Bolts on metal retainer that covers rear main seal? Are you talking about the crank main journal cap? Not too sure what you're talking about there, if it is the main journal there were multiple torque specs in various model years I would have to look at my book but, I believe from 1970-76 351M/400 it was 95lb/ft and 1977-1980 400 only 45lb/ft and then 1980 400/351M to end of production was like 90 lb/ft... I think 45lb/ft on bottom end is absolute insanity lol


Always put your RTV on the spotless clean surface then put the mating part on with bolts in the holes and hand tighten the bolts down until you get a small amount bulging from the gap wait 20 minutes or until the RTV does not stick to your finger (in colder environments it takes longer to cure) then tighten your bolts to whatever torque is necessary, to be safe wait 24 hours if you're using cheap RTV, if you're using permatex THE RIGHT STUFF you can usually fill with fluids withing an hour or two and be safe (the right stuff is AMAZING, I'll never use another rtv again).


For every bolt your asking about except the crank dampener bolt and cam gear bolt you can tighten with a ratchet snug to 1/4-1/2 turn or when you feel it is tight enough.


I believe the crank dampener bolt takes 75lb/ft and the cam gear I want to say in the neighborhood of 45 lb/ft.. And I am pretty sure you need some blue lock tight on those.. Hopefully someone else can denounce the locktight if that isn't true. Again I don't have my book in front of me so I can't tell you with absolute certainty at this time.

 

Thank you Colt for the response. Got it 95% back together and had to stop due to work. So all the gaskets had several days cure time. Put the radiator in today, added all the fluids back, etc. got it fired up and ran it for about 30 min. No oil/transmission/power steering/water pump leaks so far. We'll see how it holds out. Thank you for your advice