When valve is vertical, tanks are off as noted. There are multiple videos on YouTube that explain automatic changeover regulators for those who are curious. The regulators all work the same, they just look different.
Steve

 

This tread is generating a surprising (to me) amount of discussion. When operating your regulator, the only real positions for the valve are so it either points to one tank or the other.

Normally, you select the tank you want to use. There is an arrow on the value that points to the tank you are using. When both tanks are open, using the **** on top of the tank, when one tank is open, the regulator automatically switches to the other tank and your indicator on the regulator will go to red. All regulators have some kind of indicator.

When it is red, you switch the valve to the full tank and you can now remove the empty tank to take it to be filled. The regulator should stop propane from flowing through the open hose when you remove the tank. If you want to use only one tank, shut the other one off. This is just preference, there is not right or wrong way!

A caveat- that is how it is supposed to work. What you may discover is that the regulator does not completely stop the flow of propane through the disconnected hose, when you remove a tank. This is really a common issue and something that folks often miss. It is easy to detect. When you pull the tank and have your regulator set on the full tank, just listen at the end of the disconnected hose. If you hear a hiss, this means your regulator is not working properly and the regulator should be replaced. Do not panic, just turn off the full tank using the **** on the top.

When installing a new regulator, the hoses that connect to it really require a good deal of torque to completely seal. The ends are brass so the biggest wrench in the tool box is probably a bad idea ( ), but be sure to check with soapy water or bubble leak detector when you are done.

To check you entire system for propane leaks, open a tank and select it with your regulator so your indicator goes green. Now shut off the tank. If your system is completely sealed, your regulator will continue to show green. If after a few minutes it goes back to red, your system is losing pressure. Unless someone has worked on your system recently, the leak is nearly always at the regulator or hoses (I have had new hoses leak at the brass where it is crimped into the hose, so do not assume new means good).

When regulators fail, they fail to the low side meaning reduced pressure at appliances. This is very easy to tell by just looking at the flame on your cooktop, a weak flame normally means low pressure. Yes, it is possible to adjust some regulators, but in my experience, when that is necessary, the regulator is shot.

Steve

 

That was our first indicator, in fact it barely had a flame at all and the Fridge which also worked off propane kept throwing codes of 'failure to light'.

Valve was showing red on one tank which by lift was clearly empty. So I manually switched the valve to point toward the full tank and my old flame came back and fridge worked.

A stop at Camping world confirmed it was prob a bad valve, but was a 3 day wait to get one installed, even then it had to be by appt. I live an hour+ away and the Tech was a good guy and said if you have basic tools this is an easy fix, he pointed, I bought a new valve, installed it and that was 3 years ago.

 

Good for you! Yes it is an easy fix. The most important thing is to check for leaks when done.

I did forget to mention all RVs require working propane leak detectors according to code. A leak detector will squeak due to a leak long before anyone will ever smell propane. The one I carry on my truck will actually smell propane through a closed door before anyone inside will ever smell it! Be safe!

 

Glad you brought that up. Natural gas by itself does not have any odor. Its added to the gas, its called "Mercaptan" and gives it the pungent odor.

I do not know how many locations it added, but the 'odorizer' here in Texas that I know of is South of Dallas about 60 miles or so. Its way off the road and the stench is so strong you have to wear a gas mask.

Mercaptan is so powerful it can be detected in as little as 1 part per million!

 

But, did you know some folks are unable to smell it? Another reason to have a propane detector. Weird huh?

 

Yea, they are known as 'MUTANT'S', I think today they call them Zombies

People who have eaten asparagus can experience the distinctive smell of mercaptan in their urine within 30 minutes of consuming the vegetable. However, not everyone is able to smell mercaptan in their urine as a genetic mutation in some people means they are immune to the odor.

 

Thanks for the post, Steve. I hit you with a buncha reps!

Stewart

 

is it safe to run down the road with the propane on powering the fridge? I just don't know the answer to this so i wait until i arrive to power up the fridge. That is such a pain.

 

I have always run with the propane on for the fridge. Nothing else though. Keep in mind in some locations like tunnels you maybe required to shut them off till you pass through the tunnel.


Modern RV's for the most part have leak detectors that will automatically shut the flow off if there is a leak or an underside hose or pipe is comprised.

 

That question has been hotly debated for years. Although it is possible to purchase propane detectors that shut off the gas flow in the event of a line breach or leak, they are very seldom installed and then only on a very few motor homes. These require a secondary solenoid valve that is wired in after the pressure regulator. I have never seen one in any towable, but then again, I certainly have not seen everything. Instead of two wires the detector, there are three.

There is a safety system built into all tank valves that stops the flow of propane if a line breaks, but it does not completely stop it, just slows it down greatly. It does not generally engage unless the breach is fairly large. You can test this by simply turning on the cooktop without lighting it until the detector squeals (though I do not recommend this). You will see that the propane continues to flow.

The refrigerator manufacturers feel it is safe to operate the fridge while underway. If you want to be 100% safe, some would argue the tanks should be shut off before leaving the campground or your house. But, that leads one to argue if you want to be 100% safe you should never leave home!

Like so many things in life, this is a judgement call.

Steve

 

There was a similar question asked on a dedicated RV site a while back. The emotion went beyond ridiculous as many subjects often will - and often, IMHO, 'It's do as I say, not as I do'. As Steve points out, even if the line is broken, the current valve will prevent uncontrolled propane escape. Yes, some will still seep out but will probably never reach an explosive mixture level. You quite possibly have more danger of a meteor hitting you then a propane disaster. Oh, and yes, I travel with propane on to make sure that our adult beverages are good and cold after we set up the 5er. The only time it would be turned off would be on a few bridges or tunnels that require it to be shut down. As far as fueling/gassing up your vehicle - you might consider shutting the reefer off, but most folks (including me) wont, especially at a diesel pump.

 

To expand just a bit further, propane is explosive only is certain concentrations. Too lean or too rich and no poof. For those of you who have the cooktops with the constant pilot, what happens if the pilot goes out? The gas continues to flow, but it does not reach a high enough concentration to cause a problem.

Again, this is a judgement call.

Steve

 

I had a blow out that resulting in the line to the fridge being broken. I was traveling with it on. I pull over and shut the tank off when I saw it.


Lost no propane that I could tell. In the pic I just put tape over the connection, changed the tire and went home the rest of the way.