88 460 timing cover
88 460 timing cover
Well shoot. Got everything back on my truck today. Was doing a timing cover change. Needless to say it leaks worse on the sides iI torqued all bolt 20-27 ft lbs. Should I try and tighten more or just go ahead and pull it all back off.
I believe that the Ford manual also had instructions for installing the water pump on the timing cover off the truck, then installing both as an assembly.
RTV on bolts, surfaces perfectly cleaned, wiped down with brake cleaner on cloth for example.
RTV on bolts, surfaces perfectly cleaned, wiped down with brake cleaner on cloth for example.
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A gasket is never going to seal to "slightly dirty"
Sometimes the timing case gets all eaten up around the coolant passages.
Especially if the coolant was nasty.
All of those surfaces have to be clean and bright.
The block, the water pump, the backing plate and *both* sides of the timing case.
The last time I did my timing set I used JB-Weld to fill some pitting and a large single cut file to 'mill' the case back flat.
A fine flat file can be a great help on jobs like this if you are careful not to gouge anything.
I just didn't have the time or $100 to wait for a new case...
Try some High Tack or other gasket dressing instead of silicone goop too.
RTV needs to cure *at least* overnight, and old stuff sometimes will never cure.
My favorite RTV would have to be 'The Right Stuff' followed by 'Ultra Gray' or Black, but I would use the correct product for dressing gaskets.
Be sure to use an aerobic sealant on any bolts going into the block.
PST will keep the threads from leaking or corroding in place without adding much breakaway torque.
Sometimes the timing case gets all eaten up around the coolant passages.
Especially if the coolant was nasty.
All of those surfaces have to be clean and bright.
The block, the water pump, the backing plate and *both* sides of the timing case.
The last time I did my timing set I used JB-Weld to fill some pitting and a large single cut file to 'mill' the case back flat.
A fine flat file can be a great help on jobs like this if you are careful not to gouge anything.
I just didn't have the time or $100 to wait for a new case...
Try some High Tack or other gasket dressing instead of silicone goop too.
RTV needs to cure *at least* overnight, and old stuff sometimes will never cure.
My favorite RTV would have to be 'The Right Stuff' followed by 'Ultra Gray' or Black, but I would use the correct product for dressing gaskets.
Be sure to use an aerobic sealant on any bolts going into the block.
PST will keep the threads from leaking or corroding in place without adding much breakaway torque.
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