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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

Disc brake installation

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Old Oct 2, 2015 | 08:07 PM
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Disc brake installation

I am currently re building the front end of my 1967 f100 mercury. I have put new spindles on that are off of a 1973. I have now put rotors on and am currently unsure of how to put the calipers on. There are a few bits and bobs that I am unsure of where they go and don't know which side they go on or how to tell. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2015 | 08:18 PM
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The calipers are inserted into the bracket and the caliper key and springy thing are assembled and tapped in sideways. The key and spring are installed between the caliper and the bracket and secured/pinned by a bolt. You can see the bolt in the right image if you continue following the direction of the arrow. The caliper key is barely visible because it was painted black.

Don't you have a repair manual? What about a catalog from the likes of NPD or LMC truck? If I recall correctly, their catalogs have exploded assembly drawings from which you should be able to figure out.

Or be patient and one of our fellow FTEers will post one.

Edit: Here you go:

 

Last edited by HIO Silver; Oct 2, 2015 at 08:30 PM. Reason: 'found some pics over on the other side.
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Old Oct 2, 2015 | 09:17 PM
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You need to coat the key and the slides of the caliper/caliper anchor bracket with synthetic caliper slide grease (NOT petroleum-based grease), before you install the caliper.

This is what I use (from O'Reilly's).

 
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Old Oct 2, 2015 | 11:54 PM
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Not to be a nag, but those jack stands placed on sideways concrete blocks is not a good idea. Those blocks are strong when verticle, but easy to break in that position. Think of the edges of those jack stands trying to split that block. You could turn the block upright and use a piece of wood to set the jack stand on. Like welding in flip flops...you might get by with it, but why risk it? Just my 2 cents!
 
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Old Oct 3, 2015 | 12:07 AM
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Originally Posted by ultraranger





You need to coat the key and the slides of the caliper/caliper anchor bracket with synthetic caliper slide grease (NOT petroleum-based grease), before you install the caliper.

This is what I use (from O'Reilly's).

Oh wow that helps a lot thank you very much.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2015 | 12:08 AM
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Originally Posted by HIO Silver
The calipers are inserted into the bracket and the caliper key and springy thing are assembled and tapped in sideways. The key and spring are installed between the caliper and the bracket and secured/pinned by a bolt. You can see the bolt in the right image if you continue following the direction of the arrow. The caliper key is barely visible because it was painted black.

Don't you have a repair manual? What about a catalog from the likes of NPD or LMC truck? If I recall correctly, their catalogs have exploded assembly drawings from which you should be able to figure out.

Or be patient and one of our fellow FTEers will post one.

Edit: Here you go:

Ok thank you very much for the help.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2015 | 12:10 AM
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Originally Posted by spdcat72
Not to be a nag, but those jack stands placed on sideways concrete blocks is not a good idea. Those blocks are strong when verticle, but easy to break in that position. Think of the edges of those jack stands trying to split that block. You could turn the block upright and use a piece of wood to set the jack stand on. Like welding in flip flops...you might get by with it, but why risk it? Just my 2 cents!
Concur. Yeah I noticed that too after I hot linked the images. Well, it does say it's from the other website.

The open cells makes that dangerous... concrete has excellent compressive strength except when it is thin and has an open cell below it! It would be better rotated 90° with a piece of plywood btwn the block and the jackstands to spread the load. Still, the practice is to never use open cell concrete masonry units as supports.

Concrete is also weak in tension.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2015 | 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by HIO Silver
Concur. Yeah I noticed that too after I hot linked the images. Well, it does say it's from the other website.

The open cells makes that dangerous... concrete has excellent compressive strength except when it is thin and has an open cell below it! It would be better rotated 90° with a piece of plywood btwn the block and the jackstands to spread the load. Still, the practice is to never use open cell concrete masonry units as supports.

Concrete is also weak in tension.
It would have been better from the jump if they had just bought 6-ton jack stands instead of 3-ton. 3-ton jack stands don't have enough useable height for working on a truck and they aren't that much more money for the 6-ton version.

6-ton has plenty of height from the floor to the frame to lift the truck to a workable height.

When I was installing a disc brake front end about this time last year. 6-ton jack stands.

 
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