I just got my truck inspected today, and there's a few things I need to fix on it first. First off is the gas tank straps. I saw there was a recall for them, is it still possible to get them replaced for free? The dealer was busy when I called, so I'll have to try again tomorrow.

Second off is apparently there's a section of my front frame that's rotted through. They said I can take it to a body shop across the street that does that, and gave me a rough estimate of $500 for fixing ALL of my issues. What's a reasonable price to expect for just the front frame having a section cut out and welded back in? It's a small rural town where everyone seems to know eachother and everyone's friendly, it isn't some big city where everything is expensive.

Next off is my left rocker panel. I saw there was a lot of issues with this generation of F150s and the rocker panels. Basically, my left rocker panel is missing a chunk due to rust on the drivers side. The guys at the shop said I can possibly get some metal welded in to fill it, it doesn't look like the panel itself is rotting, just that one spot. Again, what's a reasonable price for a rocker panel replacement? I googled it and got anything from $500-$1000.

Then there's exhaust clamps. I'm not exactly sure what they meant by this. Are exhaust clamps on the manifold, or do they hold the exhaust pipe to the frame or what? Apparently I have no exhaust clamps.

Finally, I have a case of the odometer blackout. I saw the thread on here that said to check for cold solder joints, I guess I'll mention that to the mechanic when I take it back in.

My brakes JUST passed; are the rear brakes drum or disc brakes? I have a 99 F150 Extended cab XLT 4x4, 5.4L triton. I was thinking of just doing the brakes myself either way.

Finally, this wasn't a problem with the inspection, but sometimes my engine hits around 3k RPM and I have to let off the gas for it to shift up. I checked the transmission fluid while cold and it was perfect, but I haven't yet checked it while at running temperature, which I'd imagine is more important. I learned to drive on a 05 Lincoln aviator, which is a luxury car, so I'm not used to the power of a 5.4L triton, or what a truck is supposed to feel like. What's a normal shift up supposed to feel like? I'm not sure if it feels rough, or if that's normal for a pickup, but it has a nice kick to it when it shifts up.

Thanks for anyone who read through all this crap, and double thanks to anyone who gives me suggestions

 

Yes, there is a recall on the gas tank straps. Swing it by the dealer, and they'll deal with it. $500 sounds like a decent price if you don't trust your own welding skills. The patch on the rocker... you might as well just do the whole thing. Once again, let him do it if you don't trust your skills. Odometer blackout... yeah, its the power solder point that has issues. Thankfully, the miles still click off. The display just doesn't light. I've taken my dash out several times for different reasons, and I did this fix in 30 minutes. That was disassembly, fix, reassembly. These trucks have 4 wheel discs. For the transmission, I'd drop the pan. A lot of people just have a flush, so you may have an extremely clogged filter, and a layer of grime in the pan. It's what I would do, anyway.

I'm not the most knowledgeable about rust repair (down here in Charleston its not that big of an issue), but those numbers do sound fair to me. Maybe someone with a bit more experience can help you more than I could on that.

 

Thanks for the response. My odometer is the same, I just tap the plastic a bit and it'll come back, still counting properly.

I've never welded or know anything about welding, so I'd say I'll leave it up to the mechanics. I'll mention the transmission to them as well, hopefully they can check it out and clear it if needed.

That $500 figure was to repair the rocker panel and the rust in the front frame. I didn't get a look at it myself yet, but the wording on the paper is "front frame rotted by ????". I can't read the hand writing, but if you wanna give it a go, http://puu.sh/kt3Eu/aaf4c2c35e.jpg

Thanks again for the response.

 

Yeah, definitely do that. It's really easy and quick to change the transmission filter, yet so many don't. Either way it looks like he wrote "Sub frame mount". Sheesh, I though my dad's writing was bad... But 500 for the rocker and frame fix? Sounds like a deal.

 

Any idea how long these things run for with proper maintenance? I see people saying good things about the 5.4 triton, that they're good engines that go on for thousands of miles, and I see a lot of complaints about the exploding spark plugs and some rattles and knocking.

 

300,000 miles isn't hard with these motors. I've heard people go over 400k before.

 

My 1999 f150 came with similar issues but bad rocker panel rust that I'll have to live with for a while. The seller had actually taped over them, skim coated and painted them to look fine!An eBay seller. My odometer also goes out but works better as it gets cooler out.Need to do the solder fix.My up shifting was rough also until I replaced the gas cap with a factory one and the problem went away-cheap fix if it works for you.there are some posts on here about that that someone explained the reason to me on.I did not know about the gas tank straps so I'm going to look into that.

 

I don't really see how the rocker panel rust I have is a safety issue, there's a sliver of the panel rotted out, as well as part of my fiberglass running board, but I don't get it. I guess Pennsylvania is tough on inspections. My upshifting actually does seem fine, I just wasn't used to the feel of it after learning to drive in a piece of crap luxury car. Ill try out the gas cap, thanks.

 

$500 for those repairs sounds like a steal to me, around here you can't even drive through the door of a body shop for less than $1000.

Recall # 11S21- Fuel Tank Strap Inspection and Repair or NHTSA Campaign Number: 11V385000

Make sure you get the straps inspected and if needed replaced, having them fail is not fun. also while you are at the dealer have them check if the cruise control deactivation switch recall has been performed as well.

If properly maintained these engines can clock a lot of miles, I heard of at least one 5.4L that went 1.2 Million miles (1,200,000 mi) in a 97 Econoline http://www.millionmilevan.com/ (don't put 10W-40 in it, bad idea) and I think there is also a story of a Million mile 2006 super duty with a 5.4L floating around here somewhere.

 

I actually checked the straps and frame myself, and everything seems perfectly fine, with the exception of the rocker panel, which is obviously rusted. Im gonna be taking it to another garage soon hopefully, and maybe this time I'll get a proper inspection. It was a bit convenient that there was a "problem" with my frame and straps, and the guy who was able to fix it just happens to work across the street. Ill ask the dealer to check everything out when I bring it in for the straps, assuming they weren't already replaced.

What would you recommend for it? I bought 10w-30 from Valvoline for it. These engines seem like monsters, it feels amazing to have all that power under the hood.

 

spec for the 5.4L is 5W-20. I like Motorcraft Synthetic blend and Penzoil platinum full Synthetic, I would say Valvoline should work good as well. Oh and stay away from Fram oil filters, I use Motorcraft and occasionally STP brand. The anti drain back valves in Fram filters have been known to come apart and plug oil passages in the engine, I heard for a while Ford would void your warranty if you brought it to them with a Fram filter installed but that could just be a rumor.

 

I'm not sure what the used car dealer put in it, but next time I'll be sure to avoid fram and get 5W-20, then. Would Advance Auto Parts sell Motorcraft stuff? I haven't gotten around to checking them out yet, the only car related stores within 30 miles are Walmart and Advance Auto.

 

They should both sell Motorcraft oil and filters.