Windshield, back glass install
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
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From: Durham NC
Ford did not use any sealer, but if you want to use a sealer during the install for extra security, be sure to only use a non hardening butyl window caulk product, not RTV or urethane glue. Since the weatherstrip was not designed to use sealant, there is no space built in so apply the sealant very sparingly, cut only the very tip off the tube so only a small bead comes out. still be prepared to do a LOT of cleanup afterwards, so have plenty of paper towels, the appropriate solvent for the product, a large quantity of plastic gloves at hand as well as a large lined garbage can or box within arms reach. The sealant will ooze and need recleaning for some of time. Fortunately the good news is since it does not dry or harden, any further ooze will be removeable for quite some time. The bad news is that since it does not harden any excess sealant ooze not cleaned off can come back to get on your hands, clothes and upholstery at the most inappropriate times imaginable.
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Durham NC
Besides the rope trick and soapy water, we also used two suction cup pullers on the inside to help seat it in the frame while pulling the rope and applying pressure from outside. The windshield tool that looks like a screwdriver with a ball on the end is helpful for stubborn places as you go.
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 485
Likes: 32
From: Northern OR
AX, can you tell us about the tabs that the Ford Truck Shop Manual mentions in regards to the windshield? I've done a couple of the back windows, but not sure what the tabs are about - need to do my windshield one of these days as I still have the cracked original in mine. - Bob
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
AX, can you tell us about the tabs that the Ford Truck Shop Manual mentions in regards to the windshield? I've done a couple of the back windows, but not sure what the tabs are about - need to do my windshield one of these days as I still have the cracked original in mine. - Bob
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 831
Likes: 7
From: Milford, Michigan
My windshield went in as discussed in this thread without any issues. The rear window though was a completely different animal. Not near as simple as the windshield as the rear window sits in a "pocket" in the cab and the window with the weatherstrip on it is a pain to get into the pocket in order to get it close enough to get the rope trick to work with the seal. Seemed like the glass was slightly too large but after trying different brands of glass and weatherstripping I decided it was tight by design.
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
My windshield went in as discussed in this thread without any issues. The rear window though was a completely different animal. Not near as simple as the windshield as the rear window sits in a "pocket" in the cab and the window with the weatherstrip on it is a pain to get into the pocket in order to get it close enough to get the rope trick to work with the seal. Seemed like the glass was slightly too large but after trying different brands of glass and weatherstripping I decided it was tight by design.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,288
Likes: 1,053
From: NM
You want to completely remove the tabs regardless of whether you are using the SS trim or not. Raytasch and I fought his F-4's windshield for at least an hour with the tabs removed, but the spot-welded base of the tabs in place. Not pretty!
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,994
Likes: 3
From: Morgan Hill, CA
Ford did not use any sealer, but if you want to use a sealer during the install for extra security, be sure to only use a non hardening butyl window caulk product, not RTV or urethane glue. Since the weatherstrip was not designed to use sealant, there is no space built in so apply the sealant very sparingly, cut only the very tip off the tube so only a small bead comes out. still be prepared to do a LOT of cleanup afterwards, so have plenty of paper towels, the appropriate solvent for the product, a large quantity of plastic gloves at hand as well as a large lined garbage can or box within arms reach. The sealant will ooze and need recleaning for some of time. Fortunately the good news is since it does not dry or harden, any further ooze will be removeable for quite some time. The bad news is that since it does not harden any excess sealant ooze not cleaned off can come back to get on your hands, clothes and upholstery at the most inappropriate times imaginable.
Hi Ax,
Yes...I used that butyl sealer. The excess comes off easily with a little paint thinner on a rag (a disposable rag!). I bought that from a local classic Mustang shop. The owner there swears by it....I don't think that there was any factory sealant on Mustang windshields or rear windows either, but the rubber gaskets can leak a little. You'll also notice that we had a box of Costco nitrile gloves....throwing away a few pairs of those is much easier that working that sealant off of skin.
Dan
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 774
Likes: 10
From: Simsbury, Connecticut
I'm about at the stage of putting my windows back in so this is very helpful. Thank you.
The sealer you mentioned above - is that the same as the string of putty-type of material I found along the outside edge under the weather stripping? It almost seems like plumber's putty.
The sealer you mentioned above - is that the same as the string of putty-type of material I found along the outside edge under the weather stripping? It almost seems like plumber's putty.
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Durham NC
You can us the putty type butyl sealer, but it's stiffness makes it difficult to work with, the tube type butyl caulk is much easier to deal with. When you cut the tip off the tube, cut it close to the end so it has 1/8 -3/16" opening. Use a straightened coat hanger or length of brazing rod to break the seal in the tube. apply it carefully so you have single even small diameter bead all around. If you apply too much, you'll have to apply a lot of extra pressure during the install to squeeze out the excess. If you apply it unevenly the uneven pressure may crack the glass.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 774
Likes: 10
From: Simsbury, Connecticut
Thank you!
Will this work? C R Laurence CRL7708:
Amazon.com: C.R. LAURENCE CRL7708 CRL Windshield and Body Sealant: Automotive
Will this work? C R Laurence CRL7708:
Amazon.com: C.R. LAURENCE CRL7708 CRL Windshield and Body Sealant: Automotive
Thread Starter
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Thank you!
Will this work? C R Laurence CRL7708:
Amazon.com: C.R. LAURENCE CRL7708 CRL Windshield and Body Sealant: Automotive
Will this work? C R Laurence CRL7708:
Amazon.com: C.R. LAURENCE CRL7708 CRL Windshield and Body Sealant: Automotive
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 4,525
Likes: 1
From: oh
SILICONE is a no no in any paint shop or garage, I never use it. Even some materials like fill and glaze had silicone I think. I quit using it. Really will mess up any paint work and hard to get rid of.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,580
Likes: 29
From: in a barn
I am going commando with my glass 
No sealer, only the rubber seals. If they leak I will pop them out and redo with sealer, but so far on other vehicles I have done installs on no sealer was needed.
No sealer, only the rubber seals. If they leak I will pop them out and redo with sealer, but so far on other vehicles I have done installs on no sealer was needed.