Ford did not use any sealer, but if you want to use a sealer during the install for extra security, be sure to only use a non hardening butyl window caulk product, not RTV or urethane glue. Since the weatherstrip was not designed to use sealant, there is no space built in so apply the sealant very sparingly, cut only the very tip off the tube so only a small bead comes out. still be prepared to do a LOT of cleanup afterwards, so have plenty of paper towels, the appropriate solvent for the product, a large quantity of plastic gloves at hand as well as a large lined garbage can or box within arms reach. The sealant will ooze and need recleaning for some of time. Fortunately the good news is since it does not dry or harden, any further ooze will be removeable for quite some time. The bad news is that since it does not harden any excess sealant ooze not cleaned off can come back to get on your hands, clothes and upholstery at the most inappropriate times imaginable.

 

3TR, you must have several more arms than most or a lot of very close friends!

 

AX, can you tell us about the tabs that the Ford Truck Shop Manual mentions in regards to the windshield? I've done a couple of the back windows, but not sure what the tabs are about - need to do my windshield one of these days as I still have the cracked original in mine. - Bob

 

Bob, there are pix and discussion about the tabs in ol_dan's link in his post above. The tabs are removed when using the weatherstrip and stainless window trim.

 

My windshield went in as discussed in this thread without any issues. The rear window though was a completely different animal. Not near as simple as the windshield as the rear window sits in a "pocket" in the cab and the window with the weatherstrip on it is a pain to get into the pocket in order to get it close enough to get the rope trick to work with the seal. Seemed like the glass was slightly too large but after trying different brands of glass and weatherstripping I decided it was tight by design.

 

I suspect it was made that way deliberately to be tight fit. The windshield installs from the outside so the glass can't blow in and the back window installs from the inside so it didn't blow out with the windows open, but it fits tightly in the frame so it doesn't push in easily from the outside either. I'd suggest lubing the weatherstripping and frame liberally with soap rich water solution before pushing it in.

 

You want to completely remove the tabs regardless of whether you are using the SS trim or not. Raytasch and I fought his F-4's windshield for at least an hour with the tabs removed, but the spot-welded base of the tabs in place. Not pretty!

 

Hi Ax,

Yes...I used that butyl sealer. The excess comes off easily with a little paint thinner on a rag (a disposable rag!). I bought that from a local classic Mustang shop. The owner there swears by it....I don't think that there was any factory sealant on Mustang windshields or rear windows either, but the rubber gaskets can leak a little. You'll also notice that we had a box of Costco nitrile gloves....throwing away a few pairs of those is much easier that working that sealant off of skin.

Dan

 

I'm about at the stage of putting my windows back in so this is very helpful. Thank you.


The sealer you mentioned above - is that the same as the string of putty-type of material I found along the outside edge under the weather stripping? It almost seems like plumber's putty.

 

You can us the putty type butyl sealer, but it's stiffness makes it difficult to work with, the tube type butyl caulk is much easier to deal with. When you cut the tip off the tube, cut it close to the end so it has 1/8 -3/16" opening. Use a straightened coat hanger or length of brazing rod to break the seal in the tube. apply it carefully so you have single even small diameter bead all around. If you apply too much, you'll have to apply a lot of extra pressure during the install to squeeze out the excess. If you apply it unevenly the uneven pressure may crack the glass.

 

Thank you!

Will this work? C R Laurence CRL7708:

Amazon.com: C.R. LAURENCE CRL7708 CRL Windshield and Body Sealant: Automotive

 

Yes, that is exactly what you want to use. Check the tube for the correct clean-up solvent.

 

Most windshield adhesives can be cleaned with denatured alcohol. I worked next to a glass shop for many year's. They used Isopropyl to clean things up.

 

SILICONE is a no no in any paint shop or garage, I never use it. Even some materials like fill and glaze had silicone I think. I quit using it. Really will mess up any paint work and hard to get rid of.

 

I am going commando with my glass
No sealer, only the rubber seals. If they leak I will pop them out and redo with sealer, but so far on other vehicles I have done installs on no sealer was needed.