Blown Head Gasket
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2012
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Blown Head Gasket
1970 4x4 F250 w/ 360, 102,000 miles
I just got a new distributor and Pertronix ignition and it was running really great. I noticed a nice increase in passing power at freeway speeds. I even spent on the new tires I had needed for a while now. A week and a half later on a trip up to Big Sur, (excited to go up some steep dirt roads) I think I blew the passenger side head gasket. (never got to get off the pavement)
There was a ticking noise that increased with RPM coming from the area near the rear passenger side spark plug (I should know the number but don't) I mistook this noise for some form of an exhaust manifold leak I previously had.
I noticed less power than normal on the drive up, and had water on the dipstick when I got there. No overheating. Babied it 1.5 hours home without overheating or any other obvious problems.
So.... i'm asking you fine folks for suggestions on how to determine what to do, ie: how much work I am going to need or want to do to the engine at this time. For what it's worth, there is a likelihood that I will be forced to sell the truck in the next few years.
Thanks
I just got a new distributor and Pertronix ignition and it was running really great. I noticed a nice increase in passing power at freeway speeds. I even spent on the new tires I had needed for a while now. A week and a half later on a trip up to Big Sur, (excited to go up some steep dirt roads) I think I blew the passenger side head gasket. (never got to get off the pavement)
There was a ticking noise that increased with RPM coming from the area near the rear passenger side spark plug (I should know the number but don't) I mistook this noise for some form of an exhaust manifold leak I previously had.
I noticed less power than normal on the drive up, and had water on the dipstick when I got there. No overheating. Babied it 1.5 hours home without overheating or any other obvious problems.
So.... i'm asking you fine folks for suggestions on how to determine what to do, ie: how much work I am going to need or want to do to the engine at this time. For what it's worth, there is a likelihood that I will be forced to sell the truck in the next few years.
Thanks
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,241
Likes: 299
From: Kenner,La.
head gasket
If you decide to fix it start by removing the hood and springs to collapse the hindges. If you still have the iron intake get a hydraulic shop hoist if you plan on using it again. Turn the engine to the #1 firing position, front cylinder on the passenger side and mark the rotor position on the distributor body. Then get dirty. Good luck
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 10
From: **** hole San Jose ca.
You better remove the plugs and crank the engine over make sure no water is in anY of the cyl. Crank it until all the moisture is out and spray in some oil or wd-40 to keep the any cylinder from rusting.
Check for any bent push rods don't mix them up. Loose rocker arms, broken valve springs, cracked head/bad gasket.
Now it's time to buy a manual so you'll know what your doing.
Well help but not hold your hand when most info is in a manual.
Orich
Check for any bent push rods don't mix them up. Loose rocker arms, broken valve springs, cracked head/bad gasket.
Now it's time to buy a manual so you'll know what your doing.
Well help but not hold your hand when most info is in a manual.
Orich
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2012
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I have the capability, but I'm not sure the time. With my hours lately I would not be able to start for weeks.
Any thoughts on the tapping sound I mentioned at the beginning? It worries me. I used some hose as a stethoscope and it was loudest around the spark plug (which was tight)
Any thoughts on the tapping sound I mentioned at the beginning? It worries me. I used some hose as a stethoscope and it was loudest around the spark plug (which was tight)
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2011
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So when were the hardened seats installed to run the unleaded fuels?
Head gaskets are a 2 day job. 1 to take them out and drop them off at the head shop to be surfaced and pressure tested and 1 more day to put them back in. But if you don't already have the hardened seats installed then it is a pretty good idea to have them done while they're out. Also no sense in having seats put in without a fresh triple cut valve job.
B&D Block and Head repair up in Sacramento has them on the shelf completely rebuilt ready to exchange. 1st rate shop. I sent my heads there and I own a machine shop
Head gaskets are a 2 day job. 1 to take them out and drop them off at the head shop to be surfaced and pressure tested and 1 more day to put them back in. But if you don't already have the hardened seats installed then it is a pretty good idea to have them done while they're out. Also no sense in having seats put in without a fresh triple cut valve job.
B&D Block and Head repair up in Sacramento has them on the shelf completely rebuilt ready to exchange. 1st rate shop. I sent my heads there and I own a machine shop
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 2,350
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From: Garland, Tx
If not, spend a saturday morning pulling it, drop heads off at the shop and all week putting a gasket set in it, new timing chain and HV oil pump. Paint and restab.
I've said before, I'm a big fan of hand lapping valves. Even after head rebuild.(I had to think how to word that correctly
)
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bruno2
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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Apr 12, 2013 09:43 PM