After attempting to change out the dreaded spark plugs after 187,000 I changed # 1&2 I went to #5 next and it broke off with electrode inside the end peace. I called lisle and told me I'd have to drill it out then tap it. I started driving it without getting plug out ran better than I thought it would. Anyway the Ac didn't work anymore and got power to the hi and low psi sw all fuses are good including the one under the hood.
Any help would be appreciated

 

The air conditioner is disabled when there is a severe misfire.

Fix the spark plug issue, the A/C will then work properly unless something else is wrong.

 

Thank you so much! Been pulling my hair out trying to figure that out. Got to wait till Thursday to buy drill bit and another socket before I'll get the broken piece out of the head. I'll be sure and post if that took care of the problem.

 

I'm not sure I understand what the break on #5 looks like... the electrode pin isn't connected to anything at the bottom of the plug (the part that's still in the cylinder), so even if it didn't come out with the top of the plug (it's been my experience that it usually does), couldn't you grab it with a long needle nose and be left with just porcelain and the bottom metal piece (that the lisle tool is designed to extract).

I don't understand why there's any need for drilling. Do you have a pic?

 

Yes if I didn't mushroom the end with the lisle tool, first time using this and thought it would push it down but it did not, the ground strap is keeping it from going below the top of the broken off metal piece. Hope that explains it enough. If there's a better way of getting it out please let me know.
Thanks

 

Pics of your plugs would be best, but let's see if we can get a better explanation from this (is it sad that I have a bag full f these plugs in my drawer at work??)





[note: I should have labeled the picture abc instead of 123, the numbers refer to the labels in the pic above... not to the cylinder #s]

OK so usually when you break a plug, you're going to get parts 1,2, and 3 out of the hole, and part 4 will remain in the cylinder. This is a good thing.

Sometimes, you'll only get parts 1 & 2 out, and part 3 (the electrode pin) will remain in the cylinder with part 4. This is not as good as the first situation, but not a showstopper... it just adds the pain in the *** of getting the electrode out before proceeding with the extraction.

So do you have this "sometimes" situation, or do you have something completely different?

 

Not sure if I uploaded pic but the plug that's broken off has 3 and 4 still in the head 1 and 2 came out.

 

Nope, your pic didn't come through... but...

Ok Brother, you're still going to be alright I think.

The added challenge that you have in this situation is that you've got to get the pin out of there so you can get the porcelain pusher in to work it's magic.

You're actually pretty lucky because getting at # 5 should be the easiest of all -- you should actually be able to see into the hole to watch what you're doing. (If it were #4 or #8 you'd be working totally blind).

Should I assume you tried to get the pin out? Or did you get nervous and just stop?

If you have some long needle nose pliers, give it a shot. If you don't have long needle nose pliers, go to the store and invest 20-30 bucks, you need the right tool for the job here so don't mess around. if you're going out to buy something, get a pair of needle nose vice grips... that's even better than pliers, but they are harder to find.

Anyway, get in there and get that pin. Don't go crazy on it, but you might have to wiggle it and work it a bit. You might have a little resistance (look at the end of a good plug and you'll see there's a little lip at the bottom of the electrode that might resist being pulled out).

Once you get that pin out, you're back in the saddle.

Good luck, keep us posted.

 

Thanks for your help and no I hadn't tried getting it out as of yet, I just bought the extraction tool and watched lots of videos before using it. I sprayed some wd-40 in the hole so I'll get a can of air or two when I get the long needle nose pliers to blow it out and then maybe I can see it. I'll keep you posted I still can't buy anything till Thursday

 

Ahhh, I'm actually happy that you haven't tried yet. If that's the case, you might be able to get it with pliers/vice grips that you've got on hand.

Again, # 5 is pretty accessible and you might be able to grab it with a pair of standard pliers. Not only is it right in front, but it's not as deep as the ones in back either. It might just come out easier than you think.

If not, back off and go at it with the long nose vice grips

Good luck

 

Thanks, I'm going ahead and get the long pliers anyway because i have 5 more to do. Also do you have a way to test the coil on plugs? I bought a hole set off Amazon for about $50 but want to keep the old ones if there still good, just in case.
Thanks

 

There's a way to test them (the thread is here in this forum) but personally it seems like too much trouble.

If you've got a miss, replace the plug and the coil. You'll feel better with fresh parts in there. I guess you can throw a couple on the shelf if you want, chances are if they weren't causing trouble when you took them out then they'll still be ok if you need them in a pinch.

 

Thats good advice, I bought the truck new in 2006 and love my truck and never changed the plugs so after 185,000 i can't complain but the design of the plugs were very bad and will need to change the other 5 unfortunately. Any recommendations on getting the rest out in one piece? I've heard everything from doing it with a hot engine, cold engine, loosen it a 1/4 turn then put Carb cleaner and soak it 2 hrs or use power steering fluid and acetone mix 50/50 to dissolve the carbon does any of those sound plausible

 

Yes they all do. The Ford service bulletin says to loosen a 1/4 turn then soak in Motorcraft carb cleaner. I used carb cleaner and Hoppes #9 gun solvent. I had 2 broken plugs and they broke when I broke torque on them so no amount of soaking would've helped. It's a long process but let the solvents do their job. I even had the same situation you have with the electrode still in the hole. My first thought was oh f@#k I'm screwed but I took a step back and thought about how to get it out and my first thought was long needle nose pliers. It worked. The electrode slid out easy as pie. It sounds like you are doing everything right just take your time. Also when you are unscrewing the plugs the may make alot of scary noises coming out. That is just what they sound like. I think you will be just fine. Good Luck.

 

flyguy108 is right on... the key is to take your time and make one move at a time.

This whole thing has taken on a life of its own... remember you're taking out spark plugs, and you've got the tools to overcome the quirks that will come up.

Personally I've read ALL of the various methods, and the truth is with 190k miles on your truck you're going to break some plugs. You've got the Lisle tool and you'll be fine.

If you have the opportunity to get all the coils off the night before, put a shot of PB Blaster in each hole and let the plugs soak (not too much 3 teaspoons max).

Make sure you RELIGIOUSLY clean the holes with an air gun or a shop vac or both during the job -- you can't over clean it (I use the car detailing attachement that is basically the size of a drinking straw and it actually fits INTO the cylinder.)

Anyway, focus on one thing at a time -- baby steps -- and just get in there and git 'er done. Your truck is counting on you!

Cheers, can't wait to hear that you're all set.