Hey guys so just found out i need injectors and i figured if im going to spend the money on them i mind as well do some other upgrades. the gentleman who works on my Excursion suggested swamps injectors which i was already looking into since i run a TS chip. So i went on swamps website and stumbled upon this

https://swampsdiesel.com/products/ho...owing-package/

Talked to him about it and he said go for it but i figured id jump on here and see what some of you guys have done and or some other suggestions

Now i will ask a few more questions on this package i can add UVC wiring ,UVC harness and glow plugs... Well conveniently i am throwing a code for my glow plugs so i already need them would i be better off just getting glow plugs on a different site or should i add that all on?

It then talks about a regulated system for the fuel . is that needed?


I am learning as i go with this vehicle since i switched over from Volkswagen


Thanks in advance!

 

I wish "kits" like that were around 14 years ago.

I would say skip the wiring harness and just get glow plugs locally. They're cheap.

IMO a regulated return is necessary, and that one is good, but you can shop around. It Wouldn't have to be done at the same time.

 

Regardless of where you get the glow plugs, buy OEM. Some of the cheap aftermarket knockoffs have tips that will expand over time and miles and you will not be able to remove them without removing the heads.

 

Okay thanks for the help i looked at getting Motorcraft glowplugs on rock auto already was like 90$ shipped

 

As soon as I saw the title, I figured I'd better check in to make sure nobody burned their fingers on the Buck$Zooka barrel. The regulated return is the least of your worries. You will need the Hutch mod to get the air out of the fuel, and the OEM fuel pump may come up short at WOT.

The transmission life can be calculated by counting backwards from 1000 the first time you plunge the throttle, and continuing the count on each subsequent foot fall (unless you have a hand shaker). The rear suspension is not up for this - plain and simple. You're gunna get axle wrap. The question is "Can you stay out of it until you prep the hardware under the frame for this power, or would you rather Buck$Zooka the wreckage?"

You make no mention of your intake plans - many can't keep that 38R fed with big sticks. The 4" exhaust is a must with all that huffing, puffing, and blowing 6.7Ls down - at least you already have that.

Your gauges are rudimentary for going for the big tire burn. You want fuel pressure, and I have learned that OBDII scan gauges are a huge help in dealing with the hiccups that come during the Big Stick Country Safari. You can sell the TFT gauge and put a fuel pressure gauge in the same hole, then use the OBDII reading on TFT. You will still need the boost gauge, if it reads up to 40 PSI. You will also need an OCR, to protect the MAP sensor from overpressure.

The TS is a solid platform, but it's old school. The flavor of the year is Hydra, where you can have your tunes emailed to you. If you have a laptop, you can hook up with the chip still in the truck and update and/or rearrange your tunes when you see fit.

 

Sorry been busying finishing up my wedding plans since its this saturday but,

as for intake plans i currently run a K&N CAI which i plan changing the filter to a 6673 or whatever that one is since ive heard its a nice filter and that the K&N lets dust in.

But as for the hutch mod i have no clue what that is so ill look into it . it was suggested to get a lift pump instead of the regulated return system but it seems to be the same thing just separating air from fuel

As per axle wrap what may be a suggest to avoid that then?

For the Chip options i really like the TS i dont really need those 17 settings that the hydra offers but i have been reading up since it is nice you get tunes emailed to you but i really only use two settings on my current chip so im trying to justify spending 500$ on a new chip like that.


Im going to be emailing swamps here soon about the kit since id like to have my chip sent to them and then them send it all together so it can be done in a day ( my tech said he can do it that fast) which i trust he can ive watched him do alot in one day lol

 

Here is a link to a recent thread on axle wrap:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...highlight=wrap

Lots of good info from many members.

 

so virtually I need to get traction bars. Does it matter that I have an excursion? For how some bars my fit? Also is there any suggestions?

 

From what I've been told, it matters even more with an Excursion. One of our members took his squishy Excursion leaf springs out of the front and installed F350 leaf springs. It got rid of the drop-nose. If the fronts springs are softer, it's not a reach to assume the passenger vehicle rear springs are softer then the truck rear springs.

As for the traction bars, I like these: [LINK]

That's not the whole price, you still have to buy the squared U-bolts. The cheapest traction bars I could find were $500, but they are not the ideal design and they are a real bugger to install. The OUO Bolt-On Traction Bar w/U-Bolt Flip is an excellent design, and is as easy to install as it gets.

You mentioned not wanting to plop down $500 on a chip. I totally get that. However... plopping big torque in the nose will have you firing off huge Buck$Zooka rounds to make full use of the big torque without breaking something. Transmission mods or replacement, driveline visit, and rear suspension are high on the priority list. I had a beefed-up transmission before I did the stick-up and thought I was covered... but that was naive thinking on my part.

 

Landyot Radius Rods are available again (Yay!) for about $400. Search Landyot2.
Also PMF fabrication bars are awesome.

 

Tugly, I notice that when people want to do "power builds" (as i call them) people generally go engine, engine, engine, engine, break parts, replace parts, break more, upgrade transmission a bit, drive line, break things, give up

more or less that order too...I will admit I am doing a power build on my mustang, but to every ones surprise I started with the drive line, (transmission, then the drive shaft, and I just started on the engine). why did I do it in that order? well my thought is if the car is making power I want the weak link of the trans to be fully beefed up with a good drive line to boot before I start pumping out numbers in the 100+ Kw range at the wheels...right now I am also working on beefed up suspension and tyres too before going on the engine (all I have is a tune to take advantage of the CAI the stang has right now). and I have fired off a few Buck$zooka rounds too while were at it of course with my truck I may add F350 springs and leafs instead whats there also...

 

I assume it's because people want to power up their trucks when the truck itself is not 100% first.

 

Yeah... I thought the transmission would do it, but I had no experience with this much metal-ripping torque. Driveline doesn't get a lot of discussion with the power-ups, but the wrap and the transmission sure does. I think I just toasted my original driveline for the 4th time, and I may be shopping for a different one soon. I need to confirm this is what's happening.

 

I agree I don't think that there vehicles (to include cars and trucks) were 100% but I also try and start at the transmission and drive shaft as my first step, makes less opportunity for the engine to brake the drive line

 

What's an OCR? I'm new to this stuff and the acronyms kill me!