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Won't idle

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Old Sep 24, 2015 | 10:21 PM
  #16  
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Ohh I'll have to go take a look tomorrow in the daylight ����
 
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Old Sep 24, 2015 | 11:05 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by 88XLTLariat
Unplug the wire and remove the two little bolts and remove it, The gasket is often reusable but would recommend a new one especially if you replace it.
There will be two ports that go into the intake soak both of them with carburetor cleaner and let them sit for a bit, then blast and scrub all the crud you can out of it.... Occasionally the control motor can die and require replacement but that's a little more uncommon.

Edit, thanks for the picture 88XLTLariat.
 
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Old Sep 25, 2015 | 12:15 AM
  #18  
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No problem. Just bored at work. LOL
 
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Old Sep 25, 2015 | 09:45 AM
  #19  
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Where is it located?
 
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Old Sep 25, 2015 | 10:28 AM
  #20  
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Oops.. I thought they had fuel injection in 87??? There isn't a idle control valve on a carburetor, sorry about that.
 
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Old Sep 25, 2015 | 12:11 PM
  #21  
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Ha! I was wondering why I didn't see anything
 
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Old Sep 25, 2015 | 09:38 PM
  #22  
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With a carbureted Engine I would check that the EGR is closing (sometimes possible to clean if sticking) or a vacuum leak, both are common causes for idling problems.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2015 | 11:11 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by twigsV10
With a carbureted Engine I would check that the EGR is closing (sometimes possible to clean if sticking) or a vacuum leak, both are common causes for idling problems.
Well my neighbor and I looked at it last night and the EGR leaking pretty bad. Check the vacuum lines and all seemed to be ok.. Would the EGR cause it not to idle? It sounds like an old tractor right now, however if I replace the EGR that should fix that. The base gasket on the carb looked fine too as we sprayed carb cleaner around it and didn't leak
 
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Old Sep 30, 2015 | 11:13 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Ford4you
Well my neighbor and I looked at it last night and the EGR leaking pretty bad. Check the vacuum lines and all seemed to be ok.. Would the EGR cause it not to idle? It sounds like an old tractor right now, however if I replace the EGR that should fix that. The base gasket on the carb looked fine too as we sprayed carb cleaner around it and didn't leak
If it's not the EGR, it has to be a big vacuum leak.. I was told to soak the 2 bolts for the EGR with PB blaster and let soak before trying to remove because they are rusty
 
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Old Sep 30, 2015 | 12:08 PM
  #25  
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Was reading through this waiting for the OP to mention it was carburated. The 300 and 302 went to FI in '86 but the 351 didn't go to FI until '88.

Have you checked/ replaced the fuel filter? It might be partially clogged
 
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Old Sep 30, 2015 | 04:15 PM
  #26  
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Won't idle

Lol I was about to say '87 351 should be carbed. In 88 all engines were efi
 
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Old Sep 30, 2015 | 10:55 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by My4Fordtrucks
Was reading through this waiting for the OP to mention it was carburated. The 300 and 302 went to FI in '86 but the 351 didn't go to FI until '88.

Have you checked/ replaced the fuel filter? It might be partially clogged
I replaced the in line fuel filter going into the carb yes, I have not checked the other one. I'm about certain it's the EGR.. I was told you can remove all your vacuum lines (except your lines for heat/ac) and it would get you more mpg and potentially more power. Any thoughts on that? I have vacuum lines galore..
 
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Old Oct 1, 2015 | 12:05 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Ford4you
I replaced the in line fuel filter going into the carb yes, I have not checked the other one. I'm about certain it's the EGR.. I was told you can remove all your vacuum lines (except your lines for heat/ac) and it would get you more mpg and potentially more power. Any thoughts on that? I have vacuum lines galore..
I wouldn't recommend doing that unless you really know what you're doing, unhooking the vacuum to the EGR for example can cause preignition pinging issues under load and other things can cause other problems without knowing how that vacuum line affects how it runs.
It probably would help a maintenance neglected truck with huge vacuum leaks through the vacuum system that could and should've been fixed but I would question a correctly maintenance truck doing a whole lot better with just a vacuum delete.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2015 | 11:42 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by twigsV10
I wouldn't recommend doing that unless you really know what you're doing, unhooking the vacuum to the EGR for example can cause preignition pinging issues under load and other things can cause other problems without knowing how that vacuum line affects how it runs.
It probably would help a maintenance neglected truck with huge vacuum leaks through the vacuum system that could and should've been fixed but I would question a correctly maintenance truck doing a whole lot better with just a vacuum delete.
Ok thanks for the information.. I pulled the EGR tonight out of my truck and was wondering how do you know if it's bad? You can press down on the valve and it moves fine. Wondering if I should just replace the gasket and mount the old one back up and see what happens or buy a new EGR (think there about $70) and put that in? Is there anyway to test it? What would you do?
 
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Old Oct 3, 2015 | 12:05 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Ford4you
Ok thanks for the information.. I pulled the EGR tonight out of my truck and was wondering how do you know if it's bad? You can press down on the valve and it moves fine. Wondering if I should just replace the gasket and mount the old one back up and see what happens or buy a new EGR (think there about $70) and put that in? Is there anyway to test it? What would you do?
That depends on where the leak you said it had is. If it was from the gasket it will possibly fix your problem but if it's leaking from the vacuum side or stuck open or shut it won't, The valve should be fairly easily pushed open and shut when removed any sticking its bad.
 
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