How to replace neutral safety switch
I must not be explaining it right, because it seems like a simple question, what I am asking
I KNOW WHERE THE NSS IS
There has to be something in the steering column at the shift lever, carrying the signal to the NSS, where and what is it and can it come loose?
I KNOW WHERE THE NSS IS
There has to be something in the steering column at the shift lever, carrying the signal to the NSS, where and what is it and can it come loose?
nothing in the steering column is connected to the NSS.
the nss decides what gear the trans is in.
the nss then decides whether it will let the starter engage when you turn the key to start.
the wires go from the ignition switch to the nss then to the starter relay.
the nss decides what gear the trans is in.
the nss then decides whether it will let the starter engage when you turn the key to start.
the wires go from the ignition switch to the nss then to the starter relay.
The shift lever is mechanical. There will be a cable or rod(don't know which on your vehicle) that mechanically attaches the shifter to a lever on the tranny. When the lever on the side of the tranny moves, it is connected to the NSS switch mechanically and the NSS moves. It's electrical and feeds the position info back up the wires to the electrical circuits.
The shift lever is mechanical. There will be a cable or rod(don't know which on your vehicle) that mechanically attaches the shifter to a lever on the tranny. When the lever on the side of the tranny moves, it is connected to the NSS switch mechanically and the NSS moves. It's electrical and feeds the position info back up the wires to the electrical circuits.
thanks a lot
The wires on the NSS switch can certainly come loose. They can also get against the exhaust pipes, usually when someone has custom exhaust work done, and they can get melted to the exhaust pipe.
97' ford explorer Neutral safety switch replaced
The neutral safety switch is located on the transmission shift lever. Its held onto the transmission case by 2 bolts in slotted holes. You will need to remove the kickdown lever. The switch will slip off the shift lever with just a little pry if dirty. Replace the switch while the transmission is in neutral. There is a small hole in the side of the switch to stick a small pin or awl into to locate the neutral position of the switch. I would try to adjust the old switch before replacing it.
I have a 97' ford explorer, was getting the diagnostic error code PO705 (Indicated a bad T.R.S (TRansmission Range Sensor) Also refered to as a Neutral Saftey switch).
Yesterday my friend and I swapped out the factory N.S.S for a new one after making sure the old one was aligned and the problem persisted.
Didn't have the specialty tool for calibration so followed the manual calibration(per Haynes manual) and cleared the code. vehicle will only starts in neutral or park, as it is supposed to do, reverse lights work and all gears shift smooth. However after driving around for 20 minutes or so the code came back... can anyone tell me what the next steps may be in trying to get this error resolved. (CODE#PO-705). the only other thing i noticed was that the factory part had a 12 pinout and the replacement part is an 11 pinout, with the bottom left pin being the missing pin.
HUGE PLEASE AND THANK YOU TO ANYONE THAT CAN SMOGGED WITHIN THE NEXT COUPLE WEEKS, DON'T REALLY HAVE THE CASH TO PAY TO HAVE IT FIXED BY A DIAGNOSTIC SHOP...150.00 JUST TO TELL ME THE CODE THAT I ALREADY KNOW....
I agree, damaged wiring somewhere. They can lead a rough life down underneath at the tranny, and they usually are run up the backbone of the transmission to the back of the engine, or they cross over to the frame and run up. If they run up to the top of the engine, look around back there on top of the engine and see if there is a mouse nest, they love to chew wires.
1997 ford explorer neutral saftey switch (V6, 4.0 SOHC)
OKay, so if I do continuity tests on the harnes side and everything comes back with a pass or audible(audible ohms test) what might be the next step... manually chasing the wires and looking for a break? Also does anyone finf it weird that the replacement NSS only had 11 pins and the factory one had 12, i wastold by autozone that it may have been an alternate ground out or was desingned to be apllicable for multiple vehicles and that may be the reason there where 12 pins....
thanks in advance!
thanks in advance!
Last edited by 97' DieHardExploder; Oct 30, 2014 at 02:45 PM. Reason: spelling
I agree, damaged wiring somewhere. They can lead a rough life down underneath at the tranny, and they usually are run up the backbone of the transmission to the back of the engine, or they cross over to the frame and run up. If they run up to the top of the engine, look around back there on top of the engine and see if there is a mouse nest, they love to chew wires.
thanks in advance!
OKay, so if I do continuity tests on the harnes side and everything comes back with a pass or audible(audible ohms test) what might be the next step... manually chasing the wires and looking for a break? Also does anyone finf it weird that the replacement NSS only had 11 pins and the factory one had 12, i wastold by autozone that it may have been an alternate ground out or was desingned to be apllicable for multiple vehicles and that may be the reason there where 12 pins....
thanks in advance!
thanks in advance!
More than likely what should be done is get a scanner and put the scanner in a monitor mode, and then start wiggling the harness around till it beeps and gives you a code. You might be able to narrow it down that way. But like you said, just visually looking the wiring over really good is usually how you find the problem area.
Erin, You already have this posted in the appropriate truck forum. Tacking your question onto an unrelated post won't get you any real help. Hang loose and see who responds to your question on the truck forum.
Hi guys, I posted in a 6.0 forum but maybe should try here as I've not gotten a response. I am having similar problems with my 2005 F250. Intermittent no crank no start. I can sometimes turn the key rapidly 5-10 times and then it will start. Sometimes that doesn't work. Sometimes it will start if I just let it sit a few days. Other times it starts right up every time for several days. Batteries are fully charged and battery connections clean and tight. I can hear my fuel pump when I turn the key on. I have replaced the key cylinder and ignition switch in the column. When it wont crank, it wont crank in P or N and doesn't seem to matter if i jiggle the gear shift. Could this be the NSS? I sure appreciate any ideas or suggestions. Thanks.











