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Access: Remove the black cover that is closest to the front bottom of the window that covers the tow mirror mount area on the inside. Pop the entire switches assembly up and unplug all switches, there is a bolt under there. Remove the reflector/light on the door panel, there is a bolt there. Then pull straight up on the entire inner door panel. There are 1 or 2 more connections that need to be unplugged then. I think that is it until you peel back the insulation and then the fun begins with wiggling stuff while twisting your arm, wrist and tongue in all sorts of ways. You'll be able to tell which bolts hold the motor assembly in place.
Have you tried greasing the tracks for the window with a silicone based grease? That is something that is good to do and helps prevent window motor burnout.
The truck is 14 years old and could be the contact points on the switch. Recently happened on mine and it happened on my last truck too (1997 F-150). The driver's window goes up and down more than any other so it is only logical that it's the first one to go.
Sometimes it works. Sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes it quits on the way up or down.
If your switch has "AUTO" on the driver's window (depress/release and the window automatically goes down) then it's pricier. About $100 IIRC. You can also buy a non-OEM replacement for about $40 cheaper. I bought mine from 1A Auto then shortly after getting it I saw an OEM switch on sale at Amazon for under $100.
You don't even have to remove the door liner. A small point (screwdriver) at the front of the trim piece pops it up and from there you just lift it out. The switch is 2 or 3 plugs (can't remember which) and you can pull it out of the trim piece. Takes about 3 minutes to change it out.
I am by no means a certified mechanic or troubleshooter nor am I inferring that this is the cause of your issue, I am merely suggesting that this was the cause of my issue (with very similar symptoms to yours) the last 2 times that happened to me.
First, thanks for responding.
If it is the switch...(my strongest suspect now)...
Which wires can I connect together to get the window to go down?
Which to get it to go up?
I have had a problem like this and also with my speaker, I got a little bit of moisture in the connections and fixed by cleaning all harness contact points.
I thought I needed a new master switch, ended up being a little plastic piece that makes contact. Robbed one from the back switch and all ok. I made a piece for the one I robbed and it worked to. Switches are the weakest link in any circuit because of use.
Mine was doing the same thing(intermittent) my automatic rolldown down for ds window also had stopped working. I got an oem switch off of ebay for 66. and change about 3 weeks ago - Works perfect now
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