When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm getting ready to replace the front seal in my C6 (68 F-250, CS) and I thought I would replace the old (probably original) U-joints while I was at it. I'm seeing non-greasable and greasable joints listed in the catalogs but I seem to remember reading bad things about the non-greasable ones.
I put non greasables in ****. It's a heavy duty U-joint, no hole in the center(solid). I have used then in the past with my built up FE's. no headaches.
2X qman. If ya got it out...
there is a secret to getting out the pump cover. There are two threaded bolt holes on the pump cover. Alternate tightening between the two and the cover will come off. I had to do it a couple of times. The O-ring doesn't like to leave its home too much.
I took pics when i did mine, actually come to think of it, I think I high jacked someone elses thread.
There is a vent hole on the right side of the trans in line with the two transmission lines. You won't be getting water that high power washing before you start. I taped off all openings after I had it out to clean and power wash before we painted it.
That was one guy's suggestion in that linked thread. It is not necessary. The effing thing weighs a ton so it's not like you can just pick it up and stand it on end and back and forth. All you have to do is follow Teach's lead (w/ pics) in that thread. It's the easiest way.
Thanks qman.
The input shaft WILL come out so A) don't carry the tranny by it and B) don't soil your drawers when it happens. Just line the splines and put it make. (at least mine did)
.....this isn't a C-6 (it's my 4R70W) but, there are two threaded holes in the pump to screw some slide hammer adapters into, to remove the pump from the case.
A few bumps with the slide hammer on each side and boom! It's outta there.
If you're going to pull the pump, it only makes sense to replace BOTH the X-ring pump seal and the gasket, as well as the torque converter seal. Otherwise, you're just asking for trouble. --(X-ring because it has square shoulders whereas an O-ring has rounded shoulders).
I have a Rotunda AOD transmission service tool set (works with AODE and 4R70W transmissions too) that has the seal installation protectors to keep the seals from being torn/gouged. They are the various black plastic rings seen in the center of the tool set in the following photo.
You can install the pump without seal protectors but, you'll need to be very careful. Lube the seal with trans gel or Vaseline before reassembly into the case.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.