Spent the better part of the day pulling her out yesterday. What a process. Got a couple Q's now.

The entire housing is caked in oil soaked dirt. Both cross members were coated in an inch of the stuff. It was so bad that the stuff kept falling every time I touched anything, I got tons of it in my eyes and I was rolling around under the truck in it. I had to throw away my clothes. Anyway, it looks like oil has been leaking from the top rear of the engine. I'm thinking valve covers at a minimum. I put new gaskets on them a few weeks ago so I know that leak is stopped. (Q1) Can the intake manifold leak oil? I didn't think oil flowed through it but I guess I'm not sure.

I pulled the torque converter out. Looking into the bell housing there's a big ole plate held on by 7 bolts (not sure what the plate is called). I have the gasket for it. My question is: (Q2) can I just remove and replace or is there a process I need to follow so parts don't fall out all over the place? I don't want springs and bearings jumping out and bouncing all over the neighborhood.

And lastly, I have a power washer I can use to clean the housing. (Q3) Should I do it or do I risk damage?

 

FE intake manifolds are notorious for leaking oil, especially at the rear of the engine.

There's no bell housing with an A/T, it's called a converter housing. But on a C6, it's made as part of the transmission case.

C6 flexplate retained to the converter with 4 special locking nuts that should not be reused. This C6 360/390 flexplate (C5AZ-6375-D) is also the same as 352/MX Cruise-O-Matic.

378941-S441 (replaced 378941-S78) .. 3/8" -24 Flexplate to Converter Lock Nut / Available from Ford. Same: Ford-O-Matic - FX/FMX/MX Cruise-O-Matic - C3/C4/C5/C6 - AOD - E4OD and etc. etc. etc!

 

Good to know. I have a new flex plate. The old one was near toothless.

Are these the nuts? https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...late-nuts.html

 

378941-S441 .. 3/8" -24 Converter Lock Nut / Available from Ford ~ MSRP each: $1.96.

And...see my post #2 in this thread.

 

hahahahaha . . . sorry pal. Somehow I missed that last sentence.

 

I have gasket 7A136. That's why I posted Q2.

(Q4) Should I also get gasket 7086?

 

C6AZ-7A136-A is the front pump gasket. There are two 7A248's: C2AZ-7A248-A is the (small) front pump seal, C6AZ-7A248-A is the (large) front pump o-ring.

You won't need C6AZ-7086-A unless you separate the extension housing from the case.

 

So I can pull off the pump and nothing will jump out at me?

 

Behind the front pump inside the case:

 

Nice pic but will all that stuff sit there and behave or is it gonna jump out at me?

(Q5) do I need new flex plate to engine bolts or can I reuse those on there now?

 

Do NOT reuse the converter lock nuts over again! Within the treads is a nylon insert, that wears down when the nuts are removed.

If used again, the flexplate will begin to wobble on the converter, make a knocking sound...because the lock nuts have lost their effectiveness to retain the flexplate in place.

Knock knock, who's there? Nuts. What nuts? Worn converter lock nuts.

 

I'm not gonna reuse the converter lock nuts. I'm asking about the bolts that hold the flex plate to the engine.

 

Stand the transmission vertically or hang it from an engine hoist to replace the pump"O" ring and gasket. The best way to clean the outer case for me was a couple cans of oven cleaner. Good luck

 

I'm trying to get the pump out now and I can't get it to budge. When you say "stand it vertically", do you mean with the front facing down or up? And once I get it like that, how do I get the pump to move?

EDIT: n/m . . . got it. I just put a coupla Vise Grips on the casting ribs and put a slide hammer on it and slowly pounded it out. It's about ready to go back in.

 

By standing it with the converter housing up the loose thrust washers stay in place. I knew you could do it.