First let me start by saying I have recently replaced my IP, Injectors, Return Lines (& gaskets) and leaking fuel olives. I have no visible fuel leaks.

When i go to start my truck (not cold start) and i just turn the ignition it just cranks but as soon as i press the throttle it starts right up which i found real odd. I am completely confused. Could it be that the pump is heat soaking...again? I returned a pump i got from the diesel store. I bought one from them, got it and found that it heat soaked so i sent it back and this is the one i have now. I believe the FSS is working properly but I will have to test it while the engine is warm - ill update as soon as i am able to test is.

If anyone has a solution or anything for me to try i am open to all suggestions. Also, I will try the warm water trick if it doesnt fire up while its warm. I will be really disappointed and mad if i have to send this pump back to them for the second time.

Thanks,
Josh

 

UPDATE: I have disconnected the FSS while the engine was warm and clicks.

Im thinking it could possibly be the olives. Does anyone know the part number for the olives that go on the fuel lines that come from the injectors to the pump? The 8 olives that go on the pump itself.

Thanks,
Josh

 

There are no olives there. It's a metal to metal connection, with a tapered seat to seal. There IS an olive on the line that comes from the fuel filter housing to the injection pump.

How do you know that the injection pump you have now is any better than the first one? If the first one was bad, this one could be too. Your best option is R&D or Conestoga for known quality.

 

Thank you for the quick reply I am actually going to replace those olives today crossing my fingers that that is what it is.

 

Don't over-tighten the brass fittings or they can crack.

To clarify: when you wrote this: Do you mean that this happens only after the truck has been running and the engine is warm, or did you mean it is not cold outside?

Mine is an 87 6.9L with the 7.3 idi style glow plug system. Somewhere in the owners manual or service manuals I read that I'm supposed to step on the accelerator once to the floor to set the fast idle solenoid to fast idle before starting. I had to mess with mine and adjust it to get it working right.

While adjusting my VRV that controls shift points in the C-6 I noticed the other adjustment screws on the throttle/throttle cable side of the pump. I'm wondering if you have all of those adjusted properly as well as the fast idle solenoid.

Does the truck idle at proper RPM after it starts and otherwise run normally?

I'm not well experienced with working on some of the details of these engines yet but I would first suspect something other than the pump, something that might be controlled by a sensor which is not working correctly for some reason??

I've read about how all of that works together but don't know the whole picture well enough to organize it in my mind right now - haven't had any coffee yet this morning to wake me up.

Hopefully someone else who knows the whole system will be quicker of mind than I am, to help direct you.

 

It is now first thing in the morning and every start unless it's only been 2 or so minutes since I turned it off. I think air intrusion is my problem. I will have the new olives today and will replace them and see if there is a better outcome.

Once it's started it idles fine. Although my cold idle isn't working

 

install an electric fuel pump, it will help indicate and find any air intrusion issues.

 

Where would I get one from? I work at O'Reilly so if I can find one there I can get my discount lol.

 

Thats really only a bandaid, and generally won't solve the actual air intrusion, just mask it and make it easier to start.

Air molecules are smaller than diesel ones, so air can get into places that diesel won't leak out of.

Replace the olives before you putz around with anything else.

If you want to go electric fuel pump, do a search about it, been discussed plenty of times before. The pump thats generally recommended is the Facet Dura lift. It may be pricier, but it won't crap out in a month.

After you step on the pedal, how long does it take to start (cold!)?

 

I consider it an upgrade, ever run out of fuel? makes it much easier to prime the fuel system. Also can't blow out and dump diesel fuel into your crankcase. I use an Airtex E8012s, been on there for 30k, and it came off a truck that cavitated. wire it with a relay. Others use carter pumps or the factory electric fuel pumps for gm 6.5 trucks. I'd beware of the green mr. gasket pump. The carrier duralift pump seems excessive.

 

Either way I would like to have an e pump. But that's what I am going to do is start with the olives. And after I step on the pedal it doesn't take long(cold or warm). Without the throttle it stutters like it wants to but I don't want to have to crank for so long so I just floor the throttle. I will video and post as soon as I can or if the olives don't fix my problem.

 

No visible leak from olives. Instead now the leak has moved to an injector line on the ip. Great. If it's not one thing it's another. Air is still getting in because it's still takes me flooring the pedal to get it to start and i safely assume the intrusion is from where the fuel leak is.

Has anyone had problems with the clamps that hold the injector lines together? It seems as if mine is tugging on the line that's leaking when tighten the clamp causing it to leak. Without the clamp it appears to not be leaking.

More updates to come..

 

If you floor it right off the bat, it starts right up, no trouble? If so, that's not air intrusion... That's probably something different, IP wise.

 

You are supposed to loosen the clamps before disconnecting lines and if you need to move any of those line connections out of the way you should remove the clamps. Just put them back in the same place after the lines are re-tightened

If you didn't do that before installing the pump then you should probably remove the clamps entirely and go through each connection, loosen and tighten to make sure they are seated before re-installing the clamps.

An exception would be if you are removing ALL of the steel fuel lines at one time as one unit. But to reinstall the entire unit you would need to loosen the clamps to make sure each connection is free enough to be properly seated.

I learned that much from just installing the return fuel lines and caps. This way you won't slightly bend a line making it more difficult to seat properly when re-connecting and tightening them down.

A steel line that is leaking may not have enough pressure to open an injector since air in the line would act like a balloon absorbing pressure that is needed to open the injector.

I think you have found the major part of the problem. However, Macrobb is a very smart guy and knows a lot about these engines.

 

Yes, to be honest I wouldn't be surprised if the IP has something to do with this. The only problem is it's hard to start investigating with the fuel leak and air intrusion I must take care of that first. Thanks for the help.

ALSO I will be doing my first start of the day and I will record it and post so you can see what I am talking about.

Thanks again everyone I'll be back with more updates