I hate drum brakes!!! Please help me
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Cross-Country
Joined: Oct 2012
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I hate drum brakes!!! Please help me
So quick run down: I had some problems with the 1981 F100 stalling out while trying to accelerate in first, but wouldnt have any problems after getting going. Rebuilt the carb and still had problems, come to find out the right rear wheel was sticking bad going forward. So I pulled the wheel and drum off, and the wheel cylinder had froze, so here I go tearing crap apart and replaced the wheel cylinder, the problem is putting it back together stuff is not going together like it should. There is something wrong with the adjustment going back on. I think I am missing a spring, but the hardware kit they show online doesnt have any kind of spring I might be able to use. Does anyone have a picture of the rear drum brake? I have searched the forums, and online, and cant find doodly squat for my model of truck. And if anyone has a link, or a picture I would crawl through hot broken glass on my belly to show my gratitude!!! 
Anyways, yes I am a dummy for not taking a picture, but brakes are common, and I have done many brake jobs, but I want this to be done right. Thanks yall!
Anyways, yes I am a dummy for not taking a picture, but brakes are common, and I have done many brake jobs, but I want this to be done right. Thanks yall!
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2013
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From: Over There
So quick run down: I had some problems with the 1981 F100 stalling out while trying to accelerate in first, but wouldnt have any problems after getting going. Rebuilt the carb and still had problems, come to find out the right rear wheel was sticking bad going forward. So I pulled the wheel and drum off, and the wheel cylinder had froze, so here I go tearing crap apart and replaced the wheel cylinder, the problem is putting it back together stuff is not going together like it should. There is something wrong with the adjustment going back on. I think I am missing a spring, but the hardware kit they show online doesnt have any kind of spring I might be able to use. Does anyone have a picture of the rear drum brake? I have searched the forums, and online, and cant find doodly squat for my model of truck. And if anyone has a link, or a picture I would crawl through hot broken glass on my belly to show my gratitude!!! Anyways, yes I am a dummy for not taking a picture, but brakes are common, and I have done many brake jobs, but I want this to be done right. Thanks yall!
Anyways, yes I am a dummy for not taking a picture, but brakes are common, and I have done many brake jobs, but I want this to be done right. Thanks yall!
There shouldn't be anything unusual about your brakes. All 70's and 80's 9" and 8.8 brakes are the same. All the parts except the backing plate even interchange.
Long shoe at the back and springs as shown in pic but mirrored cause this pic is drivers side.
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From: Over There
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Cross-Country
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' Whats the address that I need to start crawling? LOL
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2013
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From: Over There
OH MY GOSH!!!!!!! thanks so much!!! someone really screwed these brakes up!!!! It did NOT look like this at all!!! the bottom spring was connected from shoe to shoe not to the auto tensioner. By the way, that is a sexy set up ' Whats the address that I need to start crawling? LOL
' Whats the address that I need to start crawling? LOLFWIW wheel cylinders will give you an early warning, peal back the rubber cover with a small screwdriver and look. Often if they've started to go there will be brake fluid in there. If it's wet at all IMO they should be replaced if your doing shoes and springs anyway.
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Cross-Country
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Glad to hear you got it worked out, hope your doing the other side as well, including replacing both wheel cylinders.
FWIW wheel cylinders will give you an early warning, peal back the rubber cover with a small screwdriver and look. Often if they've started to go there will be brake fluid in there. If it's wet at all IMO they should be replaced if your doing shoes and springs anyway.
FWIW wheel cylinders will give you an early warning, peal back the rubber cover with a small screwdriver and look. Often if they've started to go there will be brake fluid in there. If it's wet at all IMO they should be replaced if your doing shoes and springs anyway.
Hey since you got such quick reply, got any info on bleeding brakes on this old truck? never done one this old, and its got manual brakes (no brake booster) and a porportioning valve that is giving a brake light, so im not sure what the heck is wrong here. This wheel cylinder was rusted forward, but yes I will be doing the other side since apparently some jack-leg didnt know what they were doing here. But do I leave the resivoir open? put the lid on? Push on the pedal until it hits the floor, and pump after I get all the air out? any special orientation? like farthest from master cylinder to the nearest etc? I am dumb when it comes to these awesome old school pick-ups by the way, thank you so much for the picture!
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Definitely the suggestion to inspect and rebuild both sides of the axle is a good one. I'll add a good webpage on brake rebuilding in a second here. Here it is - it's 60s era but not much has changed. Follow these guidelines and you'll do a good job.
http://www.classictruckshop.com/brake_rebuild.php
Generally, brake bleeding is done from the farthest corner first - typically passenger side rear, drivers side rear, passenger side front, drivers side.
http://www.classictruckshop.com/brake_rebuild.php
Generally, brake bleeding is done from the farthest corner first - typically passenger side rear, drivers side rear, passenger side front, drivers side.
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Everyone here is my hero! y'all are amazing!!!! thanks for the super informing stuff!!! lets have a beeeeeeer and get to work LOL
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From: Virginia
Hey since you got such quick reply, got any info on bleeding brakes on this old truck? never done one this old, and its got manual brakes (no brake booster) and a porportioning valve that is giving a brake light, so im not sure what the heck is wrong here. This wheel cylinder was rusted forward, but yes I will be doing the other side since apparently some jack-leg didnt know what they were doing here. But do I leave the resivoir open? put the lid on? Push on the pedal until it hits the floor, and pump after I get all the air out? any special orientation? like farthest from master cylinder to the nearest etc? I am dumb when it comes to these awesome old school pick-ups by the way, thank you so much for the picture!
If you need to bleed the fronts, go ahead and open them up till they drip.
Close everything up, check the fluid level, and then see what you have in the pedal department. It will probably still need a little bleeding, though I have had them work good after gravity bleeding.
If you want to bleed them some more you will need a helper. Get them to pump the pedal a couple of times and then hold it. Tell them to hold pressure on it till you tell them to let up. While they are holding pressure, open one of the bleeders. While they are holding it to the floor, close the bleeder, don't let them lift when the bleeder is open.
Do all 4 wheels. Make sure to keep an eye on the fluid level. Once you do all 4, see what you have and if you have a good pedal.
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From: Virginia
P.S. To get a good high pedal the rear shoes need to be manually adjusted first. With the rear wheels off the ground, turn the tire while moving the adjuster with a screwdriver through the rear slot. Adjust it till you can't turn the tire, and then back it off till you can turn the tire but there is still some light rubbing of the shoes.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
On a 1981 - and believe me I know it's tough to justify dropping a lot of coin on an old truck - consider replacing the master cylinder, and all the rubber hose, and wheel cylinders etc etc all at once.
Brakes don't respond well to partial upgrades. Too much crud gets stirred up, fresh parts mean PSI goes back up. But all the hoses and wheel cylinders should really be replaced for sure.
Master cylinders are "only" another $50 bucks or so. They are basically bolt on and go. They need to be "bench bled" first, but it's no sweat. And take a jaundiced eye, and carefully inspect the hard brake line itself too. If you do the work yourself the cost is very reasonable. If not, not.
Brakes don't respond well to partial upgrades. Too much crud gets stirred up, fresh parts mean PSI goes back up. But all the hoses and wheel cylinders should really be replaced for sure.
Master cylinders are "only" another $50 bucks or so. They are basically bolt on and go. They need to be "bench bled" first, but it's no sweat. And take a jaundiced eye, and carefully inspect the hard brake line itself too. If you do the work yourself the cost is very reasonable. If not, not.
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Cross-Country
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When you are ready, fill the master cylinder up, leave the rear bleeders open, and patiently wait. In about 10 minutes or so, you should see fluid start dripping out of one of the rear bleeders. Close that bleeder and wait till the other one drips and then close it. Make sure to check the level of the master fluid, it takes about all the reservoir will hold to fill up the rear brakes, so don't let it run out.
If you need to bleed the fronts, go ahead and open them up till they drip.
Close everything up, check the fluid level, and then see what you have in the pedal department. It will probably still need a little bleeding, though I have had them work good after gravity bleeding.
If you want to bleed them some more you will need a helper. Get them to pump the pedal a couple of times and then hold it. Tell them to hold pressure on it till you tell them to let up. While they are holding pressure, open one of the bleeders. While they are holding it to the floor, close the bleeder, don't let them lift when the bleeder is open.
Do all 4 wheels. Make sure to keep an eye on the fluid level. Once you do all 4, see what you have and if you have a good pedal.
If you need to bleed the fronts, go ahead and open them up till they drip.
Close everything up, check the fluid level, and then see what you have in the pedal department. It will probably still need a little bleeding, though I have had them work good after gravity bleeding.
If you want to bleed them some more you will need a helper. Get them to pump the pedal a couple of times and then hold it. Tell them to hold pressure on it till you tell them to let up. While they are holding pressure, open one of the bleeders. While they are holding it to the floor, close the bleeder, don't let them lift when the bleeder is open.
Do all 4 wheels. Make sure to keep an eye on the fluid level. Once you do all 4, see what you have and if you have a good pedal.
yeah, I left the line open while I went and got another slave cylinder, the fluid drained out, but when I put it on, I left the bleeder screw wide open for like 2 days while the wife went to work (I got kids) anyways not a drop moved. SO I just now done the brake job and no I didnt replace both slave cylinders (working of my grandfather's money since its his truck) anyways. I know there is something called a porportioning valve or whatever on this guy, and if it ever goes out then it shows a BRAKE light on the dash all the time, now I got fluid out of both wheels, but it just seems so low PSI compared to what I am used to. Taking a "brake" tonight since burgers are done. but tomorrow I will check the front and see if I get the same PSI. if not I know I need to replace the porportioning valve, if so then I need to just break out the big cash and redo the whole system. Everyone here has helped me out tremendously!!!! This was a win-win for me! Thanks everyone! Hope there is some way I can repay the help! 
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2013
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From: Over There
If the brake like is on there are several causes, however combine this with low fluid flow to the rear and there is a good chance that the shuttle valve in the combination valve(proportioning valve) has moved and shut off flow to the rear. This is it's job its designed to shut off flow to the rear in the event of a rear leak.
Several things can be done to try and re-center the shuttle valve, or the entire unit needs to be replaced, up to you. I'd first suggest of course verifying this hypothesis, this can be done by seeing if there is a connection to ground at the wire connected to the valve.
Several things can be done to try and re-center the shuttle valve, or the entire unit needs to be replaced, up to you. I'd first suggest of course verifying this hypothesis, this can be done by seeing if there is a connection to ground at the wire connected to the valve.
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From: Virginia
I disagree, the valve in the proportioning valve assembly does not shut the flow off, it just shifts a little bit and grounds the wire for the dash light.
I am not sure what the original poster is referring to when he says "low psi"? How are you measuring the psi of the brake system and how do you know what it should be?
I am not sure what the original poster is referring to when he says "low psi"? How are you measuring the psi of the brake system and how do you know what it should be?