Degas Test
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Elder User
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From: Chiefland, Fl
Degas Test
I'm losing coolant at a pretty decent rate. My first thought is headgaskets. I did the degas test with taking the cap off after a long cold soak. I didn't have any bubbles. Are there any other easy tests that I can so before I take it to a mechanic for the final say? Now, I'm leaning towards a leak in the cooling system somewhere.
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From: Marietta, GA
park the truck nose down overnight.
then in the morning, pull the EGR valve and if it is nice and wet in there, the EGR cooler has ruptured and needs to be replaced/deleted. (need something to monitor EOT and ECT deltas, as that was probably the cause i.e. scangauge II and torque pro are popular.)
if it is dry in there, you can plumb a pressure gauge into the small hose that goes into the degas bottle and while driving see how fast and how far the pressure goes up.
you can also try a new degas cap. ford or stant will work.
then in the morning, pull the EGR valve and if it is nice and wet in there, the EGR cooler has ruptured and needs to be replaced/deleted. (need something to monitor EOT and ECT deltas, as that was probably the cause i.e. scangauge II and torque pro are popular.)
if it is dry in there, you can plumb a pressure gauge into the small hose that goes into the degas bottle and while driving see how fast and how far the pressure goes up.
you can also try a new degas cap. ford or stant will work.
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Chiefland, Fl
park the truck nose down overnight.
then in the morning, pull the EGR valve and if it is nice and wet in there, the EGR cooler has ruptured and needs to be replaced/deleted. (need something to monitor EOT and ECT deltas, as that was probably the cause i.e. scangauge II and torque pro are popular.)
if it is dry in there, you can plumb a pressure gauge into the small hose that goes into the degas bottle and while driving see how fast and how far the pressure goes up.
you can also try a new degas cap. ford or stant will work.
then in the morning, pull the EGR valve and if it is nice and wet in there, the EGR cooler has ruptured and needs to be replaced/deleted. (need something to monitor EOT and ECT deltas, as that was probably the cause i.e. scangauge II and torque pro are popular.)
if it is dry in there, you can plumb a pressure gauge into the small hose that goes into the degas bottle and while driving see how fast and how far the pressure goes up.
you can also try a new degas cap. ford or stant will work.
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Joined: Oct 2014
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From: Marietta, GA
is it puking from the cap when you loose coolant? notice any visible leaks?
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Stuttgart, Ar
It's very rare if not almost impossible for the headgaskets on this engine to leak coolant into the cylinders. If it's not puking out the degas cap then I'd be looking at how the EGR cooler is plugged off.
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From: Marietta, GA
that's what i was thinking. haven't there been some cases of the "freeze plug" deletes developing pin holes?
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Elder User
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From: Chiefland, Fl
I fill it to the MIN line. No, I'm not losing coolant from puking out of the cap. No visible leaks that I can see, but the intake valley seems to be wetter than it should. I'm thinking I need to redo my EGR delete, I did use freeze plugs on it.
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Elder User
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From: Chiefland, Fl
Just an update. Had the cooling system pressurized and it's losing coolant from the headgasket on the driver side at the back of the engine. Time for studs. My mechanic is going to do the studs for me for about $2600 with me supplying the studs and the oil cooler. He's going to supply everything else. It's not what I wanted to hear, but at least all the major problems should hopefully be fixed now.
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From: Virginia Beach VA
And from looking at others with this issue....
I'd run a chemical flush ASAP before going in for the work, clean out the coolant system before replacing the oil cooler or possible pay for it again when in clogs.
Use OEM head gaskets and Oil cooler. Consider dummy plugs, stand pipe and STC fitting as well since your in that far. Blue spring fuel system upgrade for sure.
Then a wicked tune for sure
I'd run a chemical flush ASAP before going in for the work, clean out the coolant system before replacing the oil cooler or possible pay for it again when in clogs.
Use OEM head gaskets and Oil cooler. Consider dummy plugs, stand pipe and STC fitting as well since your in that far. Blue spring fuel system upgrade for sure.
Then a wicked tune for sure
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Chiefland, Fl
And from looking at others with this issue....
I'd run a chemical flush ASAP before going in for the work, clean out the coolant system before replacing the oil cooler or possible pay for it again when in clogs.
Use OEM head gaskets and Oil cooler. Consider dummy plugs, stand pipe and STC fitting as well since your in that far. Blue spring fuel system upgrade for sure.
Then a wicked tune for sure
I'd run a chemical flush ASAP before going in for the work, clean out the coolant system before replacing the oil cooler or possible pay for it again when in clogs.
Use OEM head gaskets and Oil cooler. Consider dummy plugs, stand pipe and STC fitting as well since your in that far. Blue spring fuel system upgrade for sure.
Then a wicked tune for sure
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Chiefland, Fl
I'm trying to talk hom into installing a Wicked Wheel while he's in there.
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Just an update. Had the cooling system pressurized and it's losing coolant from the headgasket on the driver side at the back of the engine. Time for studs. My mechanic is going to do the studs for me for about $2600 with me supplying the studs and the oil cooler. He's going to supply everything else. It's not what I wanted to hear, but at least all the major problems should hopefully be fixed now.
Josh