Hey folks, new to this site.
History, got a 71 F250 camper special, has been in my family since 71. Dad passed and gave truck to me since I was the only one out of 6 kids that actually took care of her.

So anyway, starting on restoring her, engine was running, then picked up crap in the fuel pump, replaced that, replaced busted exhaust. Got her running again after new points and coil. Tossed some Sea Foam in her, let her die, then unable to crank her back up. Well, about 2 years later, started working on her again. I removed the air cleaner cover and see rust in the bottom of the housing. Took it off and found the carb looks like crap, butterflies are rusted, can't move them. I took the carb off and found the intake just below the carb has surface rust. So is the 390 done or should I remove the intake and look further? I can get can to turn over to a point, either the battery is dying or the compression is hard on the starter.

So if the 390 is done, should I rebuild, or get another engine. Found a 400M for $350.00 and a 460 for $200, if I pull it. My truck has the C6 tranny.

As far as use, once she gets on the road, just a pleasure truck, no hauling, she has done enough of that already, just gonna be a weekend runner.

thanks for thoughts.

 

Generally, in my opinion, if the engine has good engine oil (no water mixed in) and you can turn the engine over by hand, you should be able to get it running. A little surface rust won't be a deal breaker as long as you don't have any stuck valves. If it has the original engine it could be a real runner.

As for your engine replacements, the 400M and 460 depends entirely on the year of each. If you can find a running '71 400 GRAB IT. All later years need some work to run really well (cam gear makes a big difference) though they don't have the compression of the '71. I personally try to avoid all 460's at all cost since you'd be LUCKY to get 6 mpg with a 460/C6 combination.

 

400M/460 doesn't have the same transmission block pattern as 390. Going from a 390 to 400M/460 means a transmission change as well.

 

I'm no engine expert but I sure wouldn't give up on the 390 just yet. Since you are in no rush, I would take the intake somewhere and have it dipped or blasted until it was shiny clean again and then find myself a new carb. In the meantime I would upgrade to an HEI distributor, re-gap the plugs and give it a go once it was all back together (assuming, as stated before you can turn the engine over by hand). Then I would run the 390 until the thing completely pukes - which may take a long time if you are just weekend cruising.

 

Pinhead, I get 9-10 mpg with my 460-C6 for a lot of years. I used to carry a cabover camper and still get 9 as long as I drove 60 mph.

 

Thanks guys, I would actually hate to give up the 390, helped my Dad rebuilt it, or was that the 360 before it. I've been more into old Jeeps and was not shure of the ford 390 rep. I do have a Motorcraft 2bbl card from a AMC 360 I was gonna toss on the 390 to see if I can get it running again. When I did have her running, it was smooth. I hope I did not damage anything.

 

I doubt you damaged anything from the descriptions. I think everything is just tight from sitting and not being used. Kind of the Tin Man syndrome.

 

Take the plugs out, put a little oil in each of the cyl. Then turn it over by hand. You may have to work it back and forth if there is rust. I worked on a boat that had sunk (saltwater of course) and we were able to get the 454 in it free enough that it ran again.

 

2X Gary. Check the oil. also when you pull the plugs and turn it over, look for water and make sure it's not hydro locked. ( I doubt it, but still) don't give up on that FE. she's a beast

 

Welcome to FTE and the Bumpside Kingdom.
Sounds like somebody Rained On that engine's Parade. Where there is rust there used to be water prolly. I am curious if there is water in the oil pan also. You say you can turn it over to a point. That might mean rusty cylinder wall(s). A rusty cylinder wall can stop a piston from moving all the way up. You can keep spraying lubricants or whatever in the cylinders and keep moving the crank back and forth to slowly whittle the rust down but I'd just pull the heads and see what you got. I don't like doing that to the rings. Hopefully the possible rust hasn't bore it's EVIL self too far in the the cylinder wall(s).

 

From the Ford N tractor board at Yesterday's Tractor Forums, put ATF and Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinders. Wait 3 days then turn over by hand. If it is broke loose try the starter then.

 

Thanks guys, in this instance, the internet is soo cool. I am on a few Jeep forms also and always nothing but good folks and info.

Will do the ATF and MMO, is there like a mixture like 60/40? I am thinking of mixing the two then into the cylinders. After replacing the fuel pump and the points, coil and starter sol. I also replaced the plugs. Once I had her running, she was smooth. I pulled the plugs the other day and they still look great.

As far as water, I know this engine has never been in water, just don't know how the water, or moisture got pooled in the bottom of the air cleaner housing.
I think my "starting to a point" may be an issue with the battery, its not really good, it gives up problems with my son's 75 Jeep Cherokee. (which is for sale by the way) I am jumping between this 71 and my 83 Jeep Cherokee, giving it junk yard MPFI after I built a 4.6 stroker straight 6.

 

Just out of curiosity, what part of the country do you live in? There's enough humidity here in NC in the summer to rust out just about anything, I think. lol

 

2X with Jeff rusty cly. wall and using the rings to wipe the walls will end up with a lot of ring oil blow by.

You may need to pull the heads inspect the walls an any damage calls for a doing a cly. rebored which leads to a complete rebuilt.

These old classic are like a can of worms.
Orich

 

ATF and Acetone (toluene, xylene) 50/50 mix. I also use ATF and diesel in the same ratio if I don't have any solvents around.

I usually keep a gallon mixed in the shop and recycle old squirt bottles from household cleaners for squirting it on anything rusty. Cheap and works as good as or better than anything you can buy.

Condensation can build up moisture in the engine and sieze it up pretty easily. I've loosened up a few engines using this concoction and the advice given above.

Good luck!