Hi, Just wondering if I can bench test my pump. I have a code for heater and low pressure. If I fill the DEF tank it leaks !

Today I dropped the tank. I want to get some def in it, and get power to the pump to see what happens. DEF parts are pricey, and I don't want to just throw parts at it.

I could also fill it and jack it up under the truck enough to plug it in... But not sure how to make it "call for DEF" Maybe a certain RPM ? (nothing happened at idle)

Thanks!

 

The exhaust also has to be up to temp before it will call for DEF injection. I'm not sure what other things are also required beforehand though.

 

I understand not wanting to throw parts at a truck but I'd think that a junkyard def tank swap would be a good thing to do. I think the def system is pretty much the tank and the sprayer inside the exhaust. The only other thing to it might be the control module that talks to it and I'd assume changing modules would require IDS.

 

Only leaks when def is call for? Or leaks the minute you put it in the tank?

 

Thanks for the replies. I am tempted to just buy a used tank complete with both components (heater/sending unit and pump), on the other hand, I can buy both of the components for about $500.

I also have a concern that there may be an issue with the heated line to the injector. There was heavy crystallization on the line where it attaches to the pump... I would hate to replace the tank parts, only to find out that the line itself is bad..

It was dark when I got the tank out, I will go out and re evaluate.. For the cost of a tank DEF, I think I will put some in and swish it around and see if there are any obvious leaks.

Will update..

 

I like your attitude. of being a technician not a parts changer...

If it were me, I'd put the tank on the bench, fill it with water and supply the pump with 12volts, then see if it pumps.
Oh ya ,the leak,,, well before you put 12v to it, fill it with water and see where it leaks. If no leak is apparent, voltage to the pump might show a leak once it starts to pump, if it pumps...

Def is mostly water so won't hurt a thing. If the thing pumps, that will tell you a lot.
If it does pump, go to the next step and see if the heater has continuity with your multi-meter. If so, then put voltage to the heater. If it draws current and heats you're good to go on the heater and pump.

Make sure the tank has water in it before putting voltage to the heater leads. If you have a multi-meter that can show how much the heater is drawing that would be good since iirr right there is a spec for that in the manual.Or maybe it was a ohm Ω spec..? idr. But if it has continuity and heats, more than likely its good and no need to get too technical.

If it all checks out good, then its time to check the def line from the pump to the exhaust for a blockage...

You're going to have to follow the wires and bypass everything, go directly to the pump motor and directly to the heater. I wouldn't keep the heater on too long, just enough to check its current draw, or verify it heating.

jmo

 

What year is your truck and are you sure that this isn't covered under warranty?
The DEF tank/pump are part of the emissions control system on the truck and that runs under a different warranty schedule..

 

well I may be on to something here...
I noticed heavy crystallization on the "line to pump" connection. This could be why (see pic)
PS- 190,000 miles and its a 2011..

 

Hm.. doesn't look good!

 

Nope... There were some sort of gooseneck rails in the bed at some point. (previous owner) Looks like maybe a drill bit caught it..... The strange thing is, I think this would have happened when it was new or close to it !

 

well, yah know, things keep working til they don't!..

 

True.. The message just kept reading less than 1/2 full, and never changed... UNTIL last week when I brought it in for an oil change. The dealer advised that there was a PCM software update, and said it would just take a few minutes. From that moment on, it has been counting down the miles until I run out of DEF. I am afraid it will lock me in limp mode when the numbers get low...

I should have said no to the upgrade... who knew..

 

only when empty will you be in limp mode. And not right away either.


I have ran out before.

 

Wow, that connector looks BEAT..!!!

Now that I think about that, same damage happened to another forum member, maybe even on a different 6.7 forum idr. But he ended up getting the hitch company to pay for the fix that Ford did. IIRR the repair cost was huge, but the hitch company finally paid. He had pics up that showed almost the same type of damage.

 

Well... $400 (Canadian $$) later, I have this. Sure hope this is the only faulty part !!