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Coolant Flush

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Old Sep 6, 2015 | 07:57 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Actechnician 71
When I flushed mine I drained the drivers side block after every flush. I did not drain the passenger side. I'm hoping that was enough. So far the highest split between oil and coolant temp has been 12 degrees and that was driving 75 - 80 mph down the freeway. It quickly drops when I lower my speed and the split goes down to around 7-8 degrees.
what temperature is your engine at when running water? Mine was 188 with ambient temp outside at 88.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2015 | 08:44 PM
  #17  
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Even pulling the drivers side block drain, your not getting everything, why you flush a bunch of times, the coolant just becomes less concentrated over time. And why you go back with 3 gallons of concentrate at the end.

You can't get the passenger side unless you pull that plug and then the heater core and hose is still holding a fair amount, about 3 gallons.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2015 | 09:26 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by WatsonR
Even pulling the drivers side block drain, your not getting everything, why you flush a bunch of times, the coolant just becomes less concentrated over time. And why you go back with 3 gallons of concentrate at the end.

You can't get the passenger side unless you pull that plug and then the heater core and hose is still holding a fair amount, about 3 gallons.
If I let the engine run with the heaters on and the radiator drain open I should be getting almost everything flushes afs the coolant travels through the system. I did this twice for nearly 30 minutes. Each time the fluid becomes more clear.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2015 | 10:24 PM
  #19  
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In the future I would backflush the heater core. Mine always has stuff in it. It has always taken 12 flushes [48 gallons of distilled water] to get mine to run clear after using the VC9. Dropping the lower radiator hose every time you flush also helps to clean the cooling system. JMHO.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2015 | 06:39 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by coolfeet
If I let the engine run with the heaters on and the radiator drain open I should be getting almost everything flushes afs the coolant travels through the system. I did this twice for nearly 30 minutes. Each time the fluid becomes more clear.
Sure, Leave the thermostat out so it circulates. But once that cool water goes in, the tstat closes until it's up to temp.... Mainly why guys just flush the stuffing out of it.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2015 | 07:18 PM
  #21  
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I am on at least my 4th flush. I took the degas bottle out and soaked it in powdered dishwashing detergent. It was full of junk.

I drained the driver side block again and it's getting cleaner. It's lightly rust colored. I am ready for the VC9 cleaner.

I ordered the Fomoto valve and clear line to flush the passenger side. I will remove the starter and get this installed for the final flushes.

Do I remove the inlet line to the Degas bottle to back flush the heater core?
 
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Old Sep 7, 2015 | 07:34 PM
  #22  
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Here are photos of the before and after 3 flushes. It's real light orange color now.



I have a lot more jugs than this. What a collection to bring to the toxic waste disposal site.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2015 | 08:31 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by coolfeet
I am on at least my 4th flush. I took the degas bottle out and soaked it in powdered dishwashing detergent. It was full of junk.

I drained the driver side block again and it's getting cleaner. It's lightly rust colored. I am ready for the VC9 cleaner.

I ordered the Fomoto valve and clear line to flush the passenger side. I will remove the starter and get this installed for the final flushes.

Do I remove the inlet line to the Degas bottle to back flush the heater core?
I flush mine from the "T" fitting on the passenger side top of the engine. If you have a filter kit installed you should know the location I am refering to.

It just in front of the oil fill tube.
 

Last edited by Tennesseepowerstroke; Sep 7, 2015 at 08:37 PM. Reason: clarity of location
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Old Sep 7, 2015 | 09:46 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Tennesseepowerstroke
I flush mine from the "T" fitting on the passenger side top of the engine. If you have a filter kit installed you should know the location I am refering to.

It just in front of the oil fill tube.
Tennessee, I was going to ask next "What inline coolant filtration kit should I get?" Where is the the "T" fitting?

Thanks.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2015 | 07:34 AM
  #25  
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My filter kit came from Performance Parts {PPM}. If yo have not installed the kit, you don't have the T fitting. It comes with the kit.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2015 | 07:55 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Tennesseepowerstroke
My filter kit came from Performance Parts {PPM}. If yo have not installed the kit, you don't have the T fitting. It comes with the kit.
I like the Performance kit and will order it today.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2015 | 09:12 AM
  #27  
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If your going to do the VC-9 cleaner, be ready to do an oil cooler as it is a very efficient filter.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2015 | 10:52 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by WatsonR
If your going to do the VC-9 cleaner, be ready to do an oil cooler as it is a very efficient filter.
Are you suggesting that the VC9 will clog the oil cooler? I have heard of these problems.

What is a safe way to do a chemical flush?

What about Fleetguard Restore? My Degas bottle was very dirty and that's an indication that the rest of the cooling system is dirty.

Maybe the inline filter is going to do the trick for me by changing it every few months.

I will check my EOT and ECT tomorrow when the ScanGuage II arrives
 
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Old Sep 8, 2015 | 11:25 AM
  #29  
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once the cleaning chemical goes in, it begins to work immediately, not in a week or two and/or slowly. It's recommended to leave it in getting the most cleaning action from the application.. that same coolant is flowing through the oil cooler with the chemicals to loosen the debris and suspend it in the coolant so it can be carried away during the flush.

I'm saying that most every one of these threads about flushing and using chemicals ends in plugged coolers... be ready. You can flush with water and that may even result in suspended particles clogging the cooler, but mostly hearing that is not as big a gamble doing just water flushes.

I'd check the EOT/ECT differences BEFORE chemical flushing, you may not need it.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2015 | 12:50 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by WatsonR

I'm saying that most every one of these threads about flushing and using chemicals ends in plugged coolers... be ready. You can flush with water and that may even result in suspended particles clogging the cooler, but mostly hearing that is not as big a gamble doing just water flushes.

I'd check the EOT/ECT differences BEFORE chemical flushing, you may not need it.
I will measure the EOT/ECT before I put the chemical flush in.
 
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