Throttle position sensor

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Sep 2, 2015 | 11:21 AM

green_95

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Tuned

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Throttle position sensor

Trying to get my hesitation off idle issue straightened out and was going to try replaceing the TPS. But Advance and autozone both said that there are 3 different TPS for my 95 f150 with a 4.9. Told me to get the part # off it. But the only numbers I have on my TPS doesn't match anything they have. Called the ford dealership and they said there is only one TPS for the 4.9. What gives?

Sep 2, 2015 | 11:52 AM

R&RFord

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From: Candy Mountain

If you insist on using those stores try Part #s 9B989 or (CX-1419). There is only one TPS for the 4.9, it doesn't have the pigtail. The 5.0 and 5.8 version has a pigtial attached. I personally recommend the Motorcraft part. You can get it from the dealership, fordparts.com, amazon, and probably from o'reillys or rock auto. Whomever has the best price and fastest delivery to fit your situation. Even ebay is worth a look if your not in a hurry.

Sep 2, 2015 | 12:08 PM

R&RFord

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From: Candy Mountain

If you are ever in doubt take the part with you to compare it to what they have on hand.

Sep 2, 2015 | 03:56 PM

green_95

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Tuned

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Checked it and it checked out perfect. Smooth as silk. Which kinda disappoints me as that was the last thing I had to check. I am at a loss as to what's causing my issues.

Sep 2, 2015 | 04:09 PM

R&RFord

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From: Candy Mountain

Please clarify... you replaced the TPS or you checked its output and found it to be within specification?

And to the point of helping you resolve your performance problem, have you pulled codes? What have you already done to troubleshoot?

Sep 2, 2015 | 05:50 PM

green_95

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I used a multi meter to test it and it had no flat spots in the voltage as you turned the throttle to the wide open position. It was smooth as silk. I checked for codes, the only code I got was the "system good" code. I've replaced plugs ,wires, cap, button, new coil, fuel filter, throttle body gasket, bought a new IAC valve and it didn't help it any so I put the old one back on and took the new one back. Compression tested it, All cyclinders range from 140-160lbs. Tested the fuel pressure and got 45lbs with the key on engine off and got 45lbs with the key on engine on. And just recently today did the restrictor plate mod to the EGR, by putting a 3/4 in washer with a 1/8 in opening on the egr valve by loosening the big nut.

The issue is that when your coming off of idle there is a very small spot in the throttle where the engine will stumble and want to kill the motor. But once your break past that point there are no other issues, no jerks or hesitation what so ever. Even when the engine is idling there is not jerks or misses. It makes it really hard to get pulled out when you start easing out on the clutch.

Sep 2, 2015 | 07:29 PM

blue924.9

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Interested in a response mine does it too, checked into some older threads and they never posted what fixed it

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Sep 2, 2015 | 09:04 PM

blue924.9

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Quote:

Originally Posted by green_95

your the first person I've found on the net that claims to have the same issue as me. I guess that's what's making it so hard to diagnos.

there are alot of people with this problem, as a matter of fact i gathered that it is even a common trait of the 4.9. the problem lies in what people call it, there are so many names for the same problem that tracking down a thread with good hard facts and info is what is challenging.

Sep 2, 2015 | 09:25 PM

#10

R&RFord

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From: Candy Mountain

Without being there and feeling/hearing what is happening it is tough to help, and even if I was there there are so many things that could be involved. If it was mine I would start with:
Vacuum Leaks
Exhaust Leaks
Dirty Throttle Blades
Dirty Air Filter
Base Timing
Weak Ignition maybe weak alternator/loose serpentine leading to weak output/ignition?
Fuel Pressure, Fuel Pressure Regulator
Spark Plugs
EGR
PCV stuck, leaking vacuum
TPS
IAC

Is the stumble worse or better when the engine is cold or warmed up? When did the problem start?

Sep 2, 2015 | 09:40 PM

#11

green_95

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Cold or hot it does it the same.I've traced my vacume lines down and they are all in great shape. I bought the truck like this 2 months ago been working some small issues out of it. But I'm stumped on this one. The truck is driveable but it just gets annoying when you try to pull out. The truck actually runs great.

Sep 3, 2015 | 08:52 AM

#12

R&RFord

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From: Candy Mountain

Well, alot of the parts you have thrown at it constitute a tune up, and that shouldn't hurt too bad even if they didn't help the issue. You are probably looking at a lengthy game of elimination to find the culprit. Are there any mods to to the engine or anything deleted?

You traced the vacuum lines down. Did you listen for leaks with a stethoscope or bit of hose? Leaks can occur at gaskets, trees, switches, and reservoirs. Some guys spray carb cleaner around and if the engine perks up you found your leak.