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Alright guys so when I go to push in the brake pedal it sinks to the floor and I have to stand on it to brake enough. But if I release the pedal and push it again right away then it stiffens up and the brakes work great. Also I stiffened the brakes and turned off the truck and they stayed stiff. Any advice guys?
Usually when you have to pump the pedal once before the brakes work well, it's the rear drums out of adjustment. But yours is going to the floor, it's probably either a blown master cylinder OR you have a leak in one of the circuits. Modern MC's have two circuits, on a truck they are usually split so one feeds the front and the other feeds the rear brakes. Check for leaking fluid, see if the level is dropping in the reservoir and look for wetness on the inside of each wheel.
Brakes have been bled and reservoir is full. And actually speaking of a leak I do hear a hissing sound when I push in the brake and my rpms go up like 200-300 rpms
Usually when you have to pump the pedal once before the brakes work well, it's the rear drums out of adjustment. But yours is going to the floor, it's probably either a blown master cylinder OR you have a leak in one of the circuits. Modern MC's have two circuits, on a truck they are usually split so one feeds the front and the other feeds the rear brakes. Check for leaking fluid, see if the level is dropping in the reservoir and look for wetness on the inside of each wheel.
How do I adjust my rear brakes? Im thinking that could be it since they were never change that I know of. I will get new shoes tomorrow
How do I adjust my rear brakes? Im thinking that could be it since they were never change that I know of. I will get new shoes tomorrow
Don't buy anything for brakes like shoes or wheel cylinders till you know exactly what you have, and also what needs replaced. Be prepared to do a complete job. Pretty reasonable if you do it yourself, can get pretty spendy if a shop performs the work because of labor charges. Not digging on them.
Sounds like maybe the master cylinder is shot, and leaking fluid.
Don't buy anything for brakes like shoes or wheel cylinders till you know exactly what you have, and also what needs replaced. Be prepared to do a complete job. Pretty reasonable if you do it yourself, can get pretty spendy if a shop performs the work because of labor charges. Not digging on them.
Sounds like maybe the master cylinder is shot, and leaking fluid.
Ive never had to refill my fluid due to any leaks. Level is where its always been. HOWEVER....i just checked and the fluid looks like a clean motor oil color. Thought it was suppose to be white.....i will take a pic meow
Also just so yall know i did the whole adjust rear brakes thing where you reverse and slam on the brakes......the brake fluid wasnt this color a few weeks ago. Couldve just did it now that i tried that reverse thing. They worked a little better too. Should i flush my brake fluid completely........
Ive never had to refill my fluid due to any leaks. Level is where its always been. HOWEVER....i just checked and the fluid looks like a clean motor oil color. Thought it was suppose to be white.....i will take a pic meow
Actually, brake fluid SHOULD be changed ANNUALLY- it is hygroscopic: It absorbs moisture form the air- and this contaminates it... This is what SHOULD be done: I don't think I've ever heard of anyone actually doing that on a regular schedule!
That's probably a feature though, not a bug. If brake fluid didn't absorb water, then brake line would eventually freeze solid in cold weather.
You're absolutely correct however it is supposed to be flushed periodically and replaced. I think every 2 to 3 years is one schedule. Hardly anyone does this.
That's probably a feature though, not a bug. If brake fluid didn't absorb water, then brake line would eventually freeze solid in cold weather.
You're absolutely correct however it is supposed to be flushed periodically and replaced. I think every 2 to 3 years is one schedule. Hardly anyone does this.
Nooo.. That is NOT a "Feature": that water will STILL freeze. It is an UNDESIRED side effect of the DOT3/4 mineral based fluids... And they WON'T freeze...(At least not under normal winter conditions) Water in your brake fluid is a BAD thing- it rusts the system from within, and the water CAN freeze & block passages in the system, as well as fracture pipes if enough accumulates in one place and freezes(water expands when frozen)
Synthetic brake fluid(Silicon) does NOT absorb water- BUT- if moisture DOES get into the system, it concentrates in low and slow sections, rather than getting carried within the fluid as an inclusion...
Moisture can get in if you have a low reservoir vented to the outside(as they all are). Condensation will build inside the reservoir above the fluid, and run to the bottom of it...
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