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First and foremost thanks for reading and any input you can provide.
For months I've been trying to track down a vibration in my '03 4x4 7.3 Excursion. It started with a slight vibration when braking at 45 mph+ but has progressed into vibration at speed and the vibration when braking has increased in severity and does it at lower speeds. As well, while pulling a trailer the vibration is greatly pronounced while rolling. Vibration feels like its coming from the rear while sitting in the driver's seat, and vibration can be felt much more when sitting in the 3rd row seat - feels like its below you.
I've dug through the internet as well as solicited help in two threads on here as well as other boards. I've replaced all pads/rotors and checked that runout is within spec, ruled out the front end (steering is tight and I replaced both front bearing assemblies and replaced hubs with MM manuals), ensured that the front driveshaft and axle shafts are not turning, ruled out the transmission (does it with the trans in neutral), inspected the rear diff internals, balanced and overhauled the rear shaft, swapped on known-good tires/rims, checked the internals of the rear diff, ensured that the parking brake is not dragging, everything I could or others with input could think of (above plus some stuff I'm probably forgetting).
To me it looks like the spindle is 'wiped' and the wear could explain the vibration if the bearings are bouncing around a bit due to the wear and play between the rollers and the spindle - some while rolling and increased when seeing different rotational forces while braking.
First what I'm looking for is confirmation or a consensus that this is not normal wear and could be the cause of the vibration. I've spent a good amount of money trying to fix this and my wife would have a fit if I spent more without a solution.
Second what I'm looking for is knowledge on swapping in a used rear. I've located two different C1 axles (to match my current one) - one from a 120k '99 250 with a 5.4 and one from a 150k '04 250 SRW with 7.3.
The '99 has 120k miles and I can get for $200. The '04 has 150k miles and the guy won't go below $400. I know there are some subtle differences in the 99-01 and 02-04 axles but am not sure if this is just related to the revised wheel seals/"small parts" or something larger like abs sensors, spring plates, etc. I know that the excursions all had flanges on the pinion while some 250's did and some had yokes. From what I've heard it is possible to remove the flange from the shaft and connect the joint to the yoke on the diff of a yoke pinion without extending the shaft too much.
For the price and mileage (and assumed easier life) I'd prefer the '99 axle but don't want to run into major accommodation work (any difference in calipers, parking brake attachment, etc.). The '04 should be a direct swap but has 30k more miles and is twice the price.
1. yes a wheel bearing can cause a vibration
2. no the race is not supposed to move on the spindle
3. hard to tell if the spindle is damaged beyond service from the pics as you would need to measure it.
if it were mine i would buy some new timken bearings and see how they felt going onto the spindle. ( you can carefull polish off any high spots by using some emery cloth. ) then install the bearings using some red locktite between the race and spindle.
Thanks for the reply pirate4x4 camo. I didn't think to mic the spindles (had it all torn apart in the driveway and it started raining). Since the inner bearing sits in the hub I couldn't tell how it "fit" to the spindle but the outer one felt like most bearings I've installed.
I'm a bit confused by the Loctite - the bearing cups (what I know to be the races) sit in the hub, unless you are talking about the "inner" race that is part of the bearing itself. Since the bearings need to come off to service the hub, parking brake, etc. I'm not sure how I would feel about Loctite-ing the bearings to the spindles since it was already a bit of a pain to pull the hub due to just the wheel seal. Have you done this on your own vehicles before with good results?
use the locktite between the spindle and the bearing.
Yes I have done it many times and yes it works.
Anaerobic Retaining compounds were used for this purpose first by machinist and in aerospace applications and later adapted as a thread locking compound.
Here is some additional info on the higher temp stuff. 660 is good to 150c though so you should be good. I use red on our race cars spindles and have used it on other stuff as well. I doubt you will find 660 locally but you can get it on amazon. Make sure to get the surfaces clean and oil free first. I use lacquer thinner but brake clean should work. Non-hazardous anaerobic products from Henkel
