When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Replaced the driver side radius arm bracket and bushing on my '96 4x4. Here are pics of the install and the parts.
Also included the difference between MOOG problem solver bushings and Energy Suspension polyurethane bushing.
Moog by far takes it.
The Moog has a metal sleeve to prevent separation like the OE
Moog is on the bottom, Energy on top. Moog is a much better fit.
Moog is on bottom, Energy on top.
Old bracket before removal.
Had to grind/cut the rivets out.
Extent of the bad front RA bushing....none left.
New bracket and Moog problem solver kit. PN k8776 for the bracket and K8361 for the kit.
As you can see, the kit is much more inclusive, giving washers and additional spacers to prevent wearing of the bushing.
New bushings and bracket
New bushings and brackets, bracket comes with bolts to replace rivets.
Last edited by WDScott; Aug 27, 2015 at 08:19 AM.
Reason: Added photos
I can't tell from looking at the pictures on my cell phone but what was wrong with the bracket? Looks like new bushings and call it good.
Mine didnt have anything wrong with it, but in some cases when the the bushing fails, the radius arm will wear a grove into the bracket.
I replaced mine because a) you have to remove the bracket to change the front bushing anyways and b) the new bushing fit more snug into the new bracket, than it did the old one.
Sorry about the giant pictures by the way, thought I resized them all.
No, you do not have to remove the bracket to replace the front bushing. The way I was taught to do it as a Ford tech was to
1) remove the lower shock bolts from the raduis arm
2) remove the coil spring
3) loosen the upper stud and lower bolt for the radius arm at the TTB
That allows you to move the axle half forward and get to the front bushing and swing the arm back and forth as needed. I had to replace the bracket and arm on my '94 Bronco because the PO let it go way too long. Otherwise I never mess with the rivets when replacing the bushings. Aren't the Moog bushings rubber vs poly from Energy Suspension?
No, you do not have to remove the bracket to replace the front bushing...... Aren't the Moog bushings rubber vs poly from Energy Suspension?
Yeah Ive heard of that same method as well, but it is MUCH more labor intensive and I didnt want to spend that much time on it.
Yes the ES bushings are poly, but the fitment was not as good. The bushing was over all smaller and would have allowed play. The moog was closer to OE size and fit better in both the new and old bracket.
And the moog had that metal jacket/sleeve around the front bushing (first pic). When I held them both in hand, the moog just seemed better quality.
I don't think unbolting parts is harder than removing rivets. The Energy Susp kit assumes that your old washers, (pass side) heat shield and plastic rings are going to be reused. I prefer to use poly and be done with it. To each his own.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
