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Radius Arm Bushings, can I replace them?

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Old May 15, 2009 | 10:36 AM
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Radius Arm Bushings, can I replace them?

How difficult is it to replace the radius arm bushings on my 78 F250 4x2? I have a limited set of tools and mechanical knowledge. I replaced my shocks, thermostat, tune up and that's about it.

Here are some picks of my brackets. As you can see the bushing are all but disintegrated.




My brackets only have one rivet and 3 bolts. I will drill out the rivet and replace it with a grade 8 bolt.
1)What size bolt do I need?
2)While removing the bracket do I need to support or jack up any part of the truck?
3) There are many options for bushings-some with plastic spacers, some come with metal washers, etc. Which to I need. It looks like mine have the washer welded to the arm and nut? Here are some examples I have seen.




4) Any other tips?

I would like to do the job this weekend assuming I find the bushings. Thanks.
 
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Old May 15, 2009 | 11:10 AM
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How can we tell you if you can replace it? The bushings are replaceable but we have no idea on your mechanical capabilites. If your confident in yourself then start tearing it apart. It really isn't that hard to do.

For the replacement bolt I would use a 7/16" coarse thread grade 8.

Make sure you have heat to loosen up that radius arm nut as well.
 
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Old May 15, 2009 | 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by ranger429
How can we tell you if you can replace it? The bushings are replaceable but we have no idea on your mechanical capabilites. If your confident in yourself then start tearing it apart. It really isn't that hard to do.
Thanks. I should have worded that differently. 'Can a person with minimal mechanical knowledge replace these' would have been better.

Do I need to support the bracket/arm when I remove the last bolt? Will it have a lot of tension?
 
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Old May 15, 2009 | 11:23 AM
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From the sounds of it, you may want to just take it to a shop to get done. On a side not mine on my truck look worse.
 
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Old May 15, 2009 | 11:30 AM
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I'd support it with a floor jack to keep it from moving to far. In all reality it is probably about a 3 hour job with the right tools. If you don't have a torch to heat that nut up at the end of the R/A you would be better to take it in and have it done.
 
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Old May 15, 2009 | 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by ranger429
I'd support it with a floor jack to keep it from moving to far. In all reality it is probably about a 3 hour job with the right tools. If you don't have a torch to heat that nut up at the end of the R/A you would be better to take it in and have it done.
Thanks. Got the torch, breaker bar, etc.
 
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Old May 15, 2009 | 12:19 PM
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Its really not that hard. i have done a few. if you are going to take the mount off or the frame to do this fix then take some steps like; block both front tires, front and back of tire as well as one or both back ones. and take the rad bolts off first it makes it easier to put them of if still connected to the frame, also put a jack or a stand on one. if not they both can drop at the same time and its not fun when they do. then replace and put back together. like i said not hard just time consuming.
 
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Old May 15, 2009 | 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by frankensteined_67
Its really not that hard. i have done a few. if you are going to take the mount off or the frame to do this fix then take some steps like; block both front tires, front and back of tire as well as one or both back ones. and take the rad bolts off first it makes it easier to put them of if still connected to the frame, also put a jack or a stand on one. if not they both can drop at the same time and its not fun when they do. then replace and put back together. like i said not hard just time consuming.
Thanks for the tips.
 
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Old May 15, 2009 | 12:28 PM
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From: salt lake
no prob lets just see it when you get it all fixed. and let us know how it went!
 
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Old May 15, 2009 | 06:02 PM
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Instead of usen the torch you might be able to get by with just an impact on it, with a good bit of pb blaster.
 
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Old May 15, 2009 | 07:27 PM
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The search function is your friend. Here's just one of a bunch- https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...-bushings.html


Pete
 
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Old May 16, 2009 | 12:00 AM
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the way i have done mine undo the big nut slide a jack under the arm by the bracket [to keep it from dropping] set parking brake hook a com-along to somthing solid pull back just enough to re and re inside bushings [you will want to match up with what you have noteing the steel washer position] as they vary by year release com-along and arm should pop back in if it slid up ward get a freind to use a bar to re position you will be amazed at the differnce about 1/2 job per side also may want to check the i beam bushing if this ones that bad the other one cant be far behind hope this helps regurds joe
 
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Old May 16, 2009 | 11:47 AM
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From: salt lake
joe i usually do the same but i have done both ways. and berry whats to pull the brackets to replace a rivet.
 
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Old May 17, 2009 | 04:28 AM
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yes you bet theres all ways more ways to do the job one of our hd mechanics at our shop did this for me and i was impressed with how easy and fast it was there was a bet going on to see who could do it faster [i lost by the way] boy i will bet that front end is moveing all over the place with bushings like that my s/c was the same way total 100% differnce
 
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Old May 17, 2009 | 04:44 AM
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Yeah time involved in doing this varies. My dad can do both in 30mins with someone to help. Thats minus changing out that rivit for a bolt.
 
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