When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hello everyone! Not sure what's going on here or really how to explain it clearly. My truck is developing a hesitation or a miss when accelerating. It only does it in the beginning of accelerating like when just starting off from a stop. Seems like its more noticeable with the more I get on it. If that makes any sense. When just lightly accelerating it doesn't do it, like going slow through town from light to light. But when I give it more is when I feel it. It seems like it only does it before the turbo kicks in and it puts out a little smoke too only before turbo kick in. After that it runs good with no noticeable miss or anything. WOT runs feel good after it clears up. Its just when first starting out with anymore that 1/4 throttle I can feel it. Does something need cleaned?
I Noticed you have the Cat Delete, is the EGR Delete also? If not may be time to pull it and clean up the soot. Try not to get cleaner in the electrical ports.
I Noticed you have the Cat Delete, is the EGR Delete also? If not may be time to pull it and clean up the soot. Try not to get cleaner in the electrical ports.
Originally Posted by 04badford
While your in there cleaning get the MAP threaded nipple to the Intake, and IAT2 sensor those will be sooted up as well
That's the only thing deleted. Everything else on the motor is still stock. All the EGR stuff is still there for now. I'm new to all this so any tips and pointers would be greatly appreciated. I do know where the EGR valve is but never took it out. The other things you mentioned I've heard people talk about them but this is all new to me.
Ive also heard someone mention before in other threads that the EBP sensor or tube needing cleaned sometimes. Where's that located? Sorry if I sound dumb but I'm new to all this and trying to learn about my truck.
No worries , FTE is a great site to learn , the EGR Valve need a 8 mm socket you want to twist counter clock wise and pop it straight up , if sooted in the valve will be a bugger to get out I use two thin flat bars in my album you can see what there are, use carb cleaner to spray it off be carefully not to get the small hole under the gasket or top side Electrical lightly move the two discs hold down ward and spray , I usually have a sock wrapped around the areas mentioned, the IAT2 sensor is located behind the upper fuel bowl, usually this sensor is over looked and will be caked , I use a plumbers flux brush to help knock the soot out, the MAP Sensor is located on the passenger heater Ac box with 3 nuts holding the sensor, you won't have to clean the sensor just follow the hose down to the Intake unhook the hose from the sensor to help unthread the nipple I be leave a 10 mm wrench use air to blow it out then carb cleaner , the intake make sure the little hole is clean too. EBP sensor is located on your truck year Thermostat housing bracket . First if you want to take it off spray WD 40 on the threads both ends of the metal tube and let it sit for a while before .braking them loose , you can use weed eater line to clear the tube all the way , and ( don't Spray the sensor) just make sure the hole is clear/ open. I would do one at a time starting with the EGR Valve and see how it runs then do the others the PCM will throw a EGR Code because it was disconnected . Might want to try and receive a code before you start the process.
No worries , FTE is a great site to learn , the EGR Valve need a 8 mm socket you want to twist counter clock wise and pop it straight up , if sooted in the valve will be a bugger to get out I use two thin flat bars in my album you can see what there are, use carb cleaner to spray it off be carefully not to get the small hole under the gasket or top side Electrical lightly move the two discs hold down ward and spray , I usually have a sock wrapped around the areas mentioned, the IAT2 sensor is located behind the upper fuel bowl, usually this sensor is over looked and will be caked , I use a plumbers flux brush to help knock the soot out, the MAP Sensor is located on the passenger heater Ac box with 3 nuts holding the sensor, you won't have to clean the sensor just follow the hose down to the Intake unhook the hose from the sensor to help unthread the nipple I be leave a 10 mm wrench use air to blow it out then carb cleaner , the intake make sure the little hole is clean too. EBP sensor is located on your truck year Thermostat housing bracket . First if you want to take it off spray WD 40 on the threads both ends of the metal tube and let it sit for a while before .braking them loose , you can use weed eater line to clear the tube all the way , and ( don't Spray the sensor) just make sure the hole is clear/ open. I would do one at a time starting with the EGR Valve and see how it runs then do the others the PCM will throw a EGR Code because it was disconnected . Might want to try and receive a code before you start the process.
Thanks for your help. Seems like I get quicker and more helpful answers on here compared to powerstroke.org. What do you mean about that last part? You mean I should wait till I get a code before I clean anything.
Watch VGT and see what's happening with the turbo. That is the commanded value, but if it's commanded and never reached, it should continue to command more. May need cleaning due to sticking vains, maybe why it takes a few seconds to catch up.
Thanks guys , I wanted to keep it simple until things were checked off , then hit the big ticket Idems , like turbo, ICP so on , take a look in the Tech Folders under 6.0 bible Sensor parts location , lots to read and get familiar with your truck.
Not to rule out all the above just more food for thought.
Additionally if you stomp on the pedal the computer doesn't like it. and wont let you give it full throttle. Its possible that could be your issue, for the hesitation. Smoke could also just be when the computer finally gives in and "slowly (milliseconds)" allows the rapid acceleration, which in turn will still give it to much fuel hence the black smoke.
to combat the this I found from a stop when I want to romp on it, go 50% pause 100% and it does fine. take a few time to get used to it but just habit now
Watch VGT and see what's happening with the turbo. That is the commanded value, but if it's commanded and never reached, it should continue to command more. May need cleaning due to sticking vains, maybe why it takes a few seconds to catch up.
VGT is one of the PIDs I have displayed on torque pro. What should I be looking for?
VGT is one of the PIDs I have displayed on torque pro. What should I be looking for?
15% or 85%
Values that don't change or really slow to change. You should be able to get a turbo fart, if not, that could indicated sticking/stuck vanes. It's the black cloud and then the turbo kicks in.... meaning it's dumping the fuel to it when you stomp it but the turbo isn't providing enough air.
15% or 85%
Values that don't change or really slow to change. You should be able to get a turbo fart, if not, that could indicated sticking/stuck vanes. It's the black cloud and then the turbo kicks in.... meaning it's dumping the fuel to it when you stomp it but the turbo isn't providing enough air.
I think it probably does need cleaned, I'm not sure when it was done or if it ever was by the previous owner. So that could be part of the problem but I can make it fart I usually see it change quite often. it will usually do the vane sweep from 15 to 85 when at idle but sometimes it doesn't and it is constantly changing when I'm driving depending on throttle position.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
hesitation/miss durring acceleration
, the EGR Valve need a 8 mm socket you want to twist counter clock wise and pop it straight up , if sooted in the valve will be a bugger to get out I use two thin flat bars in my album you can see what there are, use carb cleaner to spray it off be carefully not to get the small hole under the gasket or top side Electrical lightly move the two discs hold down ward and spray , I usually have a sock wrapped around the areas mentioned, the IAT2 sensor is located behind the upper fuel bowl, usually this sensor is over looked and will be caked , I use a plumbers flux brush to help knock the soot out, the MAP Sensor is located on the passenger heater Ac box with 3 nuts holding the sensor, you won't have to clean the sensor just follow the hose down to the Intake unhook the hose from the sensor to help unthread the nipple I be leave a 10 mm wrench use air to blow it out then carb cleaner , the intake make sure the little hole is clean too. EBP sensor is located on your truck year Thermostat housing bracket . First if you want to take it off spray WD 40 on the threads both ends of the metal tube and let it sit for a while before .braking them loose , you can use weed eater line to clear the tube all the way , and ( don't Spray the sensor) just make sure the hole is clear/ open. I would do one at a time starting with the EGR Valve and see how it runs then do the others the PCM will throw a EGR Code because it was disconnected . Might want to try and receive a code before you start the process.
I usually see it change quite often. it will usually do the vane sweep from 15 to 85 when at idle but sometimes it doesn't and it is constantly changing when I'm driving depending on throttle position.