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1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series All Ford Ranger and Mazda B-Series models

AC compressor replacement

Old Aug 23, 2015 | 10:34 PM
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AC compressor replacement

I have a '96 ranger with a 4.0 and auto transmission. I will be replacing my ac compressor, accumulator dryer, expansion valve and o rings. Any helpful tips or things I should also do? Flushing parts etc...
Thanks.
john
 
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Old Aug 24, 2015 | 08:16 AM
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Your truck doesn't have an expansion valve; it has an orifice tube instead. Why are you replacing the compressor? Did the old one seize up? When you remove the orifice tube, look for any black metal chunks of gunk on it. If there are any, I would flush out all the lines and the evaporator, and REPLACE the condenser (no matter how much you try to flush a condenser, there will always still be some gunk stuck in the little passages). If you don't get all the metal shavings out, you'll destroy the new compressor and you'll be right back where you are now.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2015 | 08:52 AM
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The seals went in the compressor. I added refrigerant and could here it hissing out from the front of it. Thanks for the advice.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2015 | 06:02 AM
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exranger is correct. The mid 90's had a problem with the coating on the compressor pistons. It would wear off, and 'Black Death' would create a sludge that wandered throughout the system. Clumps would accumulate in the condenser, never to be totally eradicated. The pressures would be fine, cold air from the vents, and blam. A clot occurred, blocking the orifice tube, and pressure would skyrocket, opening the high pressure relief valve, and vent refrigerant and oil to rust-proof your underhood area. And it would quit cooling...
The only solution was a complete under hood replacement, and a good flush of the evaporator. The accumulator is the 'tank' that is connected to the firewall on one end and the compressor on the other. It receives refrigerant from the evaporator, lets any droplets fall to the bottom, and feeds vapor to the inlet of the compressor. Being sealed, and funny shaped, it cannot be flushed if you get any contamination. It also has a baggy of desiccant that in some years gets free and blocks the system. The desiccant is 'silica gel' I think, and looks like large salt crystals. If they get to the compressor, it is not good. The Escape has/had a problem with them, FWIW, along with rusty accumulator 'cans'.
tom
 
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