I have read every post concerning starters on this site.

Here's the story. 1985 F150 XLT Lariat 5.0. AOD. Dual tanks

At some point in its life the trans was swapped to a 70 Ford car C4 trans which is ok since I am retired and I only use it around town. Still has 164 tooth flexplate and original 5.0 starter

The side tank was leaking so I pulled the bed and changed it. Everything seemed ok.

Went to start it and it sounded like classic solenoid not engaging. Starter relatively new so I double checked all wiring, shows good on voltage and good low resistance ground.

Pulled starter, noticed the top bolt slightly loose. Tightened it, no change.

Pulled starter, hooked it up on the ground and tested, drive moved forward like normal.

Put starter back in, still no engagement. Loosened the top bolt a little and held the non-drive end of the starter out away from the engine. Hit the remote starter and it cranked up.

Normally Ford starters don't have to be shimmed (as I have read here). I found a Dorman part listed as a Ford starter alignment plate and put it in. It significantly tightened up the fitment of the starter. Tried it, everything worked ok. Tightened bolts and still ok.

Drove truck to store approx 2 miles, not enough to come to normal temp. Came out of store and same symptoms. Had brought tools and remote starter switch with me, loosened both the top bolt and the bottom a little, moved it over, and voila!, it started.

Ok, a lot of info so far. I have verified the number on the starter as the correct one for the automatic (non manual). The flexplate is the correct count on teeth and all are in place. The C4 is the big bell, pan fill model.

There are several statements in the posts here indicating that all Ford 2 bolt starters are the same pattern. What I am wondering is if the C4 opening is clocked just slightly enough to cause this? I am only rocking the starter slightly in order for it to engage.

I plan on taking the starter to the parts place and compare it to a 68 Mustang starter to ensure the they are identical on the gear end.

If so. Can I get away with shimming the top bolt just slightly to get it to align.

Auto part houses have all kinds of GM shims but nothing specific for Ford.

I also thought about reducing the thickness of the Dorman alignment plate to try and get a little "lean" into the placement.

Looking for any any and all opinions, ideas, and solutions to this. (other than changing back to an AOD. That's a whole other story and it ain't happening!)

Tnx Fred

 

We have mysterious Ford starter alignment problems on here from time to time. It always usually ends up with a shim or a slotted bolt hole somewhere. See if a 68 mustang starter is the same part number. It it's not, I would get one and try it. If that doesn't work, I guess a shim or slotted hole is the only solution. Sometimes a guess the factory gets something a hair off.

 

I have come across some info that I need expert opinions on, and if someone has a C4 lying around, to verify. If you have studs or long bolts the bottom one should angle slightly, if true.

Source '67 C4 mating to '68 302 - Vintage Mustang Forums

"This was an eye opener. We met a long time Mustang restorer at a local car show. We asked if he had ever heard about the starter problem we had. He said “ yes, and it’s a common problem with Mustangs and most Ford cars”. Here’s the issue. Unless you have an original Ford starter, it will not bolt to the Bell Housing correctly. The bottom bolt hole on the starter is drilled on an angle. Why you ask. The bottom hole on the bell housing is also drilled at the same angle and it puts the starter body closer to the engine and the drive gear away from the flex-plate. He said if you don’t have an original Ford starter body you need to take a rat tail file and bevel the holes on the non-Ford starter so they have room for the same angle as the bolts and move the body ever so slightly toward the motor and the drive gear away from the flex-plate. He said do it slowly and re-try until the drive gear releases and then a “touch” more. Before we did anything we mounted studs in the bell housing holes (without the starter) and it was clearly obvious (looking straight down) that there was an angle on the studs. Looking down the studs were not at right angles to the bell housing but offset (toward the motor) to move the body of the starter toward the engine. We mounted the starter and it still did not release—bummer. Then we put a light on the solenoid, and it was holding voltage in the “key ON position”. The Mustang Guy told us “don’t trust any new ignition switches or solenoids, check with a light to be sure there is no voltage to the solenoid when the key is in the ON ”. So we installed a new solenoid and “BINGO” everything worked and the drive gear retracted and no voltage in the key ON position. If anyone has an original Ford starter don’t trade it in as a core for a new one, have it re-built".

 

D7OZ-11002-A (replaced C2OZ-11002-B .. Starter-use with A/T

Some applications: 1962/64 Fairlane 221/260/289 / 1965 Mustang 260/289 / 1966/68 Mustang 302 / 1968/73 Mustang 302 / 1969/91 F100/150 302.