I never found one available locally off the shelf either. Ended up getting the Case New Holland 87329736 off Amazon.

 

It's always good to carry an extra. But 12 is to much. I had one of these on a motor home that I didn't know about and it plugged up. Found it, on the road, by passed it till I could get to town. So these small filters can plug.

 

Go to cumminsfiltration.com and click on where to buy. Do it the old fashioned way and drive over to the local retailer and tell them what you want. They likely won't have it in stock, but can get it for you.

I'm still using the Fleetguard filter. I use the CNH filter on my tractor.

 

Old thread with missing information. One and done:

 

Another mounting option for the large PS120 is to mount against a frame cross member between the front (engine end) of the tank near the transmission or rear differential. On my Excursion (yes, I know it's a little different scenario), I mounted my PS120 near the front side of the tank above the rear differential. It's way out of the way from anything flipping around underneath the vehicle, and therefore not really accessible to being bashed by very much of anything.

I didn't put it where I did to avoid having it bashed... I did it for simply location convenience to the fuel hose coming from the top of the tank... but it is a nice side benefit of the location, and it's still very easy access from below for cleaning and observation.

 

Good idea! Looks like for this option i will need to take a road trip to college station if they can get me a filter... Tennessee VS A&M will be up there in a couple months... could be worth the drive!

That is big... guess there are pros and cons with big What about the NPT fittings? Can teflon tape be used with them to get a good seal with diesel?

Also, I have noticed people replacing the hardline with a soft fuel line as in Guzzle's write up. Is there a reason behind not using the existing pluming?

Well while i am asking questions, Guzzle's material list also call out for 3/8" of fuel injection line. From looking at fuel line, it seems like 3/8" (.375) is the ID dimension. The existing hardline appears to be 0.25" OD, so I dont feel like you would want to try and mate the .375 ID and the .25" OD and expect a good seal... am I missing something. Maybe that is the reason for replacing all the hard line for 3/8"?

Do you have any photos? I am doing this on my Excursion.

I am also planning on installing a ball valve before the filter to allow me to block the flow from the tank for filter changes. Out of all the people doing this mod, I have seen no mention of this idea. Thoughts?

 

Technically, Teflon tape can be used, but is not recommended due to the potential for Teflon "threads" to be cut and come loose inside the fuel line to only plug or partially plug some downstream orifice (i.e. the screen inside the entrance of the fuel pump). A lot of us use Gasoila, but it does have a shelf life.


Soft line gives you lots of flexibility (literally) in where to mount a post-tank filter/strainer, and including an extra foot of hose length can come in handy when future repairs require you to remove or replace your fuel pump.


The hard line connection points typically have a ridge where the quick connect fitting latch onto, and this raised ridge becomes an excellent location for a small hose clamp to make a cure-tight leak free connection with the 3/8" hose. You CAN accomplish a leak free connection with a single clamp, but it is much more reliable with a double clamp arrangement... I've run it both ways and have settled on the double-clamp approach myself.


No pictures on hand, but I can get some after I get home tonight... if I can get past my CRS syndrome!


I've thought about that as well, but the low frequency of needing to actually block the fuel flow, in my mind, negates the additional risk of potentially entrained air at the additional connection points. KISS it!! Keep it simple... just use either a small C-clamp or small hose cutoff clamp on those rare occasions when you need to stop the fuel flow.

 

I use wix 33972. Available through Oreilly.

 

Some of you are posting the plastic inline filters. Others are using the Racor filter/bowl assembly. Is the Racor also placed pre-pump?

As for post pump filtration, is this the best we can get?
Driven Diesel Ford 7.3L Fuel Tank / Pre-Pump Kit (Hutch Mod) DD-73FS-TKF-v3

 

Yes, the Racor is pre-pump and simply replicates the screens that have been removed from inside the tank. The Racor allows for screen cleaning and checking within seconds, instead of having to drop the tank.

No, that is not the best you can get. The best you can get is the Racor screen filter. That will remove large debris from your fuel system, then your fuel bowl filter will remove fine debris. Don't over think it (like I do at times), this is very simple and should be kept that way.

 

So we should *not* place a filter after pump and before fuel bowl?

 

Correct. Factory fuel bowl does a good job protecting your injectors post pump.

 

I did, but it is overkill . My truck has 3 fuel filters.

 

Assuming that you still have your primary stock fuel filter in the valley, an extra filter after the pump (between the pump and fuel filter in the valley) puts undue strain on the stock fuel pump, does not help anything, creates at least 2-4 new potential leak points, and is 100% unnecessary.

 

I am not convinced of this.
The FPR is designed to maintain a certain amount of strain.