Vent Window / Seal Replacement Help
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Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2015
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From: NW Montana
Vent Window / Seal Replacement Help
Has anyone done a write-up / video on how to replace the vent windows and seals? I bought all new glass and seals for my pickup, and the glass shop wants way too much money to do the side windows. So, I was going to do it myself.
What should be glued in and what type of glue should be used?
Any other hints or tricks would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you
Tim
What should be glued in and what type of glue should be used?
Any other hints or tricks would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you
Tim
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 100
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From: Nebraska
I'm going to be doing the same thing soon. Another user pointed me to the DC catalog, there is a how to on p. 128 of the catalog, but I would also welcome any tips and tricks to making this job easier!
http://www2.dennis-carpenter.com/pdf/57-66Truck.pdf
http://www2.dennis-carpenter.com/pdf/57-66Truck.pdf
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Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: NW Montana
I'm going to be doing the same thing soon. Another user pointed me to the DC catalog, there is a how to on p. 128 of the catalog, but I would also welcome any tips and tricks to making this job easier!
http://www2.dennis-carpenter.com/pdf/57-66Truck.pdf
http://www2.dennis-carpenter.com/pdf/57-66Truck.pdf
Thanks for the response. That is definitely helpful.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 254
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I'm doing this now. The instructions in DC are correct but read them very carefully like "the division bar is a tight fit and requires patience" boy are they right. I had to go real slow. tape or plastic wrap on chrome pieces help scratches.
The new anti rattler at DC came with a rear seal on the division bar and the replacement rubber seal was easy --AFTER" the wing window is removed. I don't think it can be done without removal due to the pivots (and a screw).
But your question may have to do with changing the glass in the frame. When you take out the vent window (loosening all the piviots springs etc.) the glass then could be removed from the frame easier. Its pressed in with some rubberized material dried from 50 years. I soaked the seal and removed the seal -- only for the straight window with a lot of pressure. Frankly, unless someone here has done this and have advice, I recommend the professional, since I would have damaged the frame if I tried the vent window. Its the vent lock that is costly to replace take it off first if you try.
The new anti rattler at DC came with a rear seal on the division bar and the replacement rubber seal was easy --AFTER" the wing window is removed. I don't think it can be done without removal due to the pivots (and a screw).
But your question may have to do with changing the glass in the frame. When you take out the vent window (loosening all the piviots springs etc.) the glass then could be removed from the frame easier. Its pressed in with some rubberized material dried from 50 years. I soaked the seal and removed the seal -- only for the straight window with a lot of pressure. Frankly, unless someone here has done this and have advice, I recommend the professional, since I would have damaged the frame if I tried the vent window. Its the vent lock that is costly to replace take it off first if you try.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 26
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From: NW Montana
I'm doing this now. The instructions in DC are correct but read them very carefully like "the division bar is a tight fit and requires patience" boy are they right. I had to go real slow. tape or plastic wrap on chrome pieces help scratches.
The new anti rattler at DC came with a rear seal on the division bar and the replacement rubber seal was easy --AFTER" the wing window is removed. I don't think it can be done without removal due to the pivots (and a screw).
But your question may have to do with changing the glass in the frame. When you take out the vent window (loosening all the piviots springs etc.) the glass then could be removed from the frame easier. Its pressed in with some rubberized material dried from 50 years. I soaked the seal and removed the seal -- only for the straight window with a lot of pressure. Frankly, unless someone here has done this and have advice, I recommend the professional, since I would have damaged the frame if I tried the vent window. Its the vent lock that is costly to replace take it off first if you try.
The new anti rattler at DC came with a rear seal on the division bar and the replacement rubber seal was easy --AFTER" the wing window is removed. I don't think it can be done without removal due to the pivots (and a screw).
But your question may have to do with changing the glass in the frame. When you take out the vent window (loosening all the piviots springs etc.) the glass then could be removed from the frame easier. Its pressed in with some rubberized material dried from 50 years. I soaked the seal and removed the seal -- only for the straight window with a lot of pressure. Frankly, unless someone here has done this and have advice, I recommend the professional, since I would have damaged the frame if I tried the vent window. Its the vent lock that is costly to replace take it off first if you try.
Thanks for the information and advice. For the side window I bought new channel rubber for the bottom channel. Is there any glue used between the channel / channel rubber or channel rubber / window? I don't want the glass coming loose like it does on my 69 Mustang.
Thanks again
Tim
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 254
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Sorry Tim, I just removed the metal from the glass from a broken window from the junkyard. I cleaned and saved the part for a future switch. I see what is needed but did not do it. I wanted to see how hard the vent window might be
For what is worth, I didn't look like anything other than pressure held it in, but the old rubber had hardened and I soaked it a long time to allow it to release. As I said, the pros probably have the right solvents, but it is real tight.
For what is worth, I didn't look like anything other than pressure held it in, but the old rubber had hardened and I soaked it a long time to allow it to release. As I said, the pros probably have the right solvents, but it is real tight.
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Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2015
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From: NW Montana
Sorry Tim, I just removed the metal from the glass from a broken window from the junkyard. I cleaned and saved the part for a future switch. I see what is needed but did not do it. I wanted to see how hard the vent window might be
For what is worth, I didn't look like anything other than pressure held it in, but the old rubber had hardened and I soaked it a long time to allow it to release. As I said, the pros probably have the right solvents, but it is real tight.
For what is worth, I didn't look like anything other than pressure held it in, but the old rubber had hardened and I soaked it a long time to allow it to release. As I said, the pros probably have the right solvents, but it is real tight.
Thanks for the additional information.
The glass shop wants $75 to do the windshield. I didn't think that was bad, and I'm going to let them do it. They want $500 to do the whole truck, so I'm going to give it a try to save some money. Even if I have to buy a few replacement parts I should be ahead in the end...hopefully.
Thanks again
Tim
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,697
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From: Vancouver
My brother and I put the DC rubbers in the no-drafts. It took 4 hours - it was for sure not our first time doing such a job - because the parts did not fit. After installation I could see through the gaps and out the other side of the truck. I complained and DC said nothing.
Eric
Eric
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,697
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver
Hey Tim, I think $75 for the windshield is a great deal. I did it myself recently and regret I didn't install a new windshield. Ford "Carlite" windshields are still out there and not too expensive.
Eric
Eric
Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 112
Likes: 1
From: Conroe, Texas
I just did the replacement following the Dennis Carpenter directions. Went pretty well except for forming the glass run around the window. I dont yet know how to do that without kinking the run. The vent glass is held in with glass tape. I also had trouble with the rubber seals not completely sealing. No glue on the rubber seals. Good luck
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2013
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Here is a helpful post from the past that I used when I did my doors: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...ows-parts.html
Has some helpful tips.
Has some helpful tips.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 254
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Jim, I had read that post before and when I went to do my truck, I tried Everything to find it again. What do you physically do to retrieve these posts? I'm a dinosaur but can't seem to do what everybody else is doing.
Sorry to hijack the thread
Sorry to hijack the thread
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 26
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From: NW Montana
Here is a helpful post from the past that I used when I did my doors: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...ows-parts.html
Has some helpful tips.
Has some helpful tips.
Thanks for the link.
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Freshman User
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From: NW Montana
I'm in Columbia Falls. I got one side done this weekend.