ABS Bleeding procedure
I posted a question to user 408 Bronco because he is selling the two pieces of equipment listed that MUST be used when bleeding the 4 wheel ABS on my 96 5.0 Explorer - but I thought I may reach someone with first hand experience with this by also posting it here in the Explorer section. The two tools you must use are the T90P-50-ALA, and the T93T-50-ALA Jumper. I have them. My question is below -
Hi 408 Bronco. I know your post is a little old but hoping you can help - or maybe some other person out there can jump in and give me a hand. I have a 93 Bronco that was first of the "smaller" trucks to go to the 4 wheel ABS (from what I have read and heard) and I rebuilt entire drive line and brakes - including all stainless brake lines - because it is my trusty plow truck and car hauler. Guys can bad mouth it all they want but I have a 3/4 mile long gravel drive and this past winter we had record snow (same as Boston) and I was doing neighbors drives when other "big" plows were getting stuck. That old trusty Bronco can push piles up that even bucket loaders could not budge. I have always been able to just do the normal bleed on the Bronco (start at farthest wheel - helper pumps and holds etc) - even when all lines and master cylinder changed and as far as I can tell it would bleed ABS at same time. Brakes and ABS in that Bronco always fine and dependable, even towing car hauler. My 96 5.0 Explorer is a totally different animal. Since I bought it with 35k on it the ABS was just worthless. Replace parts and try everything I know, and brakes always weak at low speed / final 50 feet of stop, and when ABS pump growls you have NO brakes. I finally engaged my brain and looked around, and found this system is not the same as my older Bronco (wish they had left it alone) and everyone that knows what they are doing mentioned the two tools you have listed. I searched around and found them local (not cheap) but I am confused on how it works. It seems that box to bleed ABS gets hooked to ABS computer - but I can only see one box that looks like it is computer for ABS. It is directly behind battery (and I mean bolted in fender totally behind battery). It sounds like you hook the unit up and turn on key to run test - but if battery has to be moved how do they expect you to do that? And if test box itself connects to computer I am not sure how it fits to computer when it is in fender??? I am hoping you can explain the exact use of the box (T90P-50) and the T93 cable to me. I just don't see how you can put the test box down on the computer when computer just has edge of plug visible in fender edge, the cable that is visible looks to have little to no extra "give" in it that would let it reach end of test box if connected like that, and no way any of this will work with battery in there, but is the T93 cable for making the connection easier? I need help (in too many ways to list) but I am excited to think I may actually have "real" brakes on my truck if I can get this figured out. Everyone has named my poor Explorer Barney because it is a big purple dinosaur - but I love the thing. It just seems impossible to get this equipment in place if that ABS control computer really is the one behind battery. I would appreciate any of the test procedure you still remember - and I hope someone can tell me how you do this bleeding procedure on a 96 V8 Explorer. Please - Someone out there must have done this. I would get on my knees and beg but I was injured in the line of duty (Navy) in helicopter "incident" and have had 38 back, hip, & foot surgeries, so if I got down and begged I would not get up again. Thanks Everyone...



