I'm up in BC Canada, so with the dollar exchange shipping duty etc, it would be to much. Thanks though. I was just curious because ford would save me waiting to here back from wrecker, and at this point I just want the piece of mind that I'm getting a new good unit. I'm just not a fan of fords pricing. They nuked me for 90 bucks on a dip stick when I did my build. So I'm guessing around 3-500 bucks for a fuse box. One wrecker replied, and hes up in Prince George, so shipping again. I was hoping to drive down in my propane loaner and pick one up. Lol. I miss my truck.

 

Found myself a fuse box. Ford wanted 780 dollars, so had to go to a wrecker. Hope it ships by the weekend. I will post my results when installed. Still havn't found any problem wires. So hoping this is it. I'll let you know. And I also plan on dismantling the old box to see what happened. I'll post what I find.

 

Well guys. Bad news. Put new fuse box in. There is absolutely no change at all. 500 bucks in, now have a spare fuse box and pcm. I don't know what to do. Havn't a clue what could be wrong. Guess I'll just wait for pcm testing. Its the only thing I can think of. Only part I haven't replaced is the IDM. That's another 300 from the wrecker. I just can't figure out what could cause that relay not to trip. Going to tow into the back and park it. Doesn't look like its going to run until I can save about 5k for ford to find it. Can just imagine how many parts they will throw at it. Its just too expensive a truck to keep running. Its sad after all that money I spent building this motor, its going to be parked for some time. I just can't spend the money this year. If any one has a clue were to look, test, Part to throw at it, (IDM??)or what ever, I'd sure appreciate the help. I'm gonna really miss this truck. I always told myself, if you can't fix it yourself and need the steelership, its time to get rid of it or don't buy it. I'm mad at myself now for taking the risk, and now stuck with a wreck. Its obvious I'm pretty depressed over this. Enough said. Thank you.

 

I got to your point last Christmas, and I knew the truck would collect dust for a while. I needed to take a break, amass some Buck$Zooka ammo, and reconstruct my patience. I have since acquired a few inexpensive tools to troubleshoot "Stinky", and I will be diving in soon.

You'll get there, and it might hit real quick after a hiatus from the frustration. Many of us have been right where you are, then we bounce back.

Your shopping list:

• An accurate electrical diagram of your truck.
• Powertrain Control and Emissions Diagnostics manual (PC/ED)
• Maybe a toner set (makes following a cable easier).

Together, this list is less expensive to fill than just the tow bill to the shop.

 

Thanks for the list. I have since down loaded a Wire diagram for my truck from Woodthings on another site. He color coded every wire and its one drawing showing the complete system. It shows the pcm pins with the coloured wire coming out all the way to were it goes and shows what the sensors everything looks like. Has plug numbers, relays etc etc. Its the best drawing I've found so far. Nice piece of work. Problem is its colour and I cant figure out how to print it in one piece in colour or even sheets I can splice up to make it big enough. So I have to blow it up on the lap top and drag it around to follow the wires. Lol. The PC and ED manual, I havnt found. Another member gave me a pcm/idm test manual, that ran me threw a bunch of test to determine if the units, relays or wires are bad. It is a 15 page test manual. Is that it? Also have the IDM harness test that test all the way through the solinoids and back. All of them point to a bad pcm. But its so unlikely. Only because I have a used replacement. Obviously it could be bad too, but that's the unlikely part. Since I can't find any related to me issues on 3 different sites. I'd say my issue is something not common at all. Pcm issues are common, but what are the chances I found one with the same exact issue as my original. My truck is from Texas. I'm in Canada, BC. I got the new one from Prince George way up north. And its baked the same as mine? What are the odds? Maybe I should buy a lotto ticket as another member said jokingly. Although bad, those odds are killer!

 

I've been trying to send you a useful link for a while, but for some reason I can't PM you. Did you opt out of PMs?

 

No I didn't opt out. For some reason I can't pm either. Some one said its because I'm a new member. Said after I've posted for awhile they will let me post and receive private messages. If you goto my page you can post there. I sure could use some help.

 

Still testing wires. Big Job. I'm limited for time working night shift on a new Highway. Little burnt out. Have a question about a ground. Two actually. The PCM relay ground that goes threw the diode in the fuse box. First off, its the only ground so far to show the slightest resistance. Even straight to the battery. ( 0.13 ohms) All the rest are perfect. I'm assuming its the diode causing the resistance. Second, it goes to ground G100 and pin 27 of the PCM. Were is ground G100? I want to unhook it so I can test the wire, but can't find it. I pulled 3 on the drivers side by the battery, but those aren't it. Besides that, still waiting on PCM testing, and I have a new IDM coming this weekend. I only got one just in case as I got it for 80 bucks, compared to 300 from another wrecker. lol. I got that price because he offered me a bunch of other parts I've been drooling over for some time. I always wanted a dually conversion, so had to buy that too to get the deal. That said, I'm low on funds, so I got him down quite a bit. He's giving me the IDM, front axle complete from leafs all the way to the aluminum rims. No tires. The rear axle matching complete from leafs all the way to the aluminum rims. No tires. All for 580 bucks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I remove, and hes junking the frame, so torch off! All from an 04, except IDM from 02. Couldn't pass it up and got and IDM for my issue if its involved. If not, I have a spare 3 piece set LOL.

 

I've contacted a moderator to see what can be done.

 

I may have found your forum PM gremlin. Clicking all the boxes on the PM settings is one click too many. Here are my settings:

 

Thanks that's great. Except I don't have access to change anything. I havn't changed any settings, and don't know how. My profile page has no settings like that. Thanks for the info though.

 

Ya, so looked around, can't find any access to any settings. I can't PM period. I don't even have access to that settings screen. I guess you have to be a paying member to PM. That's ok, I can post for everyone to see. I'm not shy. lol

 

Upper left corner of any page on the forum when logged in, "User CP", "Edit Options".

 

Yes found that in my search. Unfortunately, under private messages it does not have any options. I have two choices, open my messages, edit folders. That's it. I have no settings or private message options. Tried all the other options and private messages are not in there either. Under edit options at the top, that window you showed does not exist. The other windows are there, but no private message options. It must be because I'm new. The gods will let me pm some day. I don't care, I just want to fix my truck

 

You are correct. The Diode is there to protect the PCM if someone inadvertently attaches jumper cables in reverse. It saves the PCM..... Sometimes.

G100 is the Ground for the interior dome lamps. It's basically a Chassis Ground.

You can test G100 by removing the (-) Battery Cables and testing from G100 to the chassis, . you should read an Open.