Thank you. That's good news about the diode. I cant seem to find were g100 is though. Got the meter on one end, but can't find were its bolted to the frame or what ever. What is the location of the g100 bolt to frame or block or body or ?

 

Oh ok, I get it. Im hooked one end to pin 27, so if I disconnect the negative battery terminals, and put the other test lead to chassis it will tell me if the wire is good without having to find it?? Il try that. Thanks.

 

I don't understand how that will that prove integrity of the grounding connection? Why wouldn't you simply check resistance between the relay end of G100 and the chassis ? Or connect a test lamp between the relay end of G100 and battery voltage? Aren't we looking for continuity between the relay ground terminal and the chassis? Shouldn't G100 always have continuity between the relay terminal and the chassis regardless of whether or not the batteries are connected?

 

Your right. The thing is I need to know that the ground WIRE is good. Just touching the chassis does not mean its good. What if its broken in the middle and grounding some were else that's my problem??? So I need to undo the bolt on G100, and test the wire all by it self, so I know its good. Then clean and replace. As said before. Since my only way to find this issue its to test ever WIRE in the truck, then that's what I'm doing. If I don't unbolt that wire, then I didn't test it properly and I can't eliminate it from my issue. I have a 6 ft long blow up of Woodthings colour wire diagram, in black and white, and I colour in each wire from pin to pin so to speak, as I eliminate it. So when the drawings all coloured in, then I know all my wires are good, and I can through parts at it again. I have to find something. Its not running for a reason. The only two things other than wires I can think to be related are the IDM and the dash cluster. Those are the only pieces I have not replaced, so if all wires good, then it has to be one of those. IDM is here tomorrow , so that will eliminate that too. So, the big tough question again. Were is the bolt holding G100 onto the chassis. I don't need a method, just the darn bolt location.

 

There are ONLY three types of electrical wiring "problems".

After many years of education in the industry, I rarely EVER use the OHM Setting unless the device i.e.: A motor, bulb, etc. is removed for testing.

Tools: DVOM

There is only three possibilities Open / Short / High Impedance.

1. Open (Broken circuit), you will see "Ghost Voltage" on your DMM.

2. Short: Short to Ground ((+) "Copper to steel")) Fuses will blow, wires will smoke, and so on.

Short to (+) or (-), where two circuits have crossed due to chafing, wire insulation degradation, poor splices and grommet degradation.

* If the circuit is NOT energized, and you see [0.00] on your DMM. This is an indication of a closed circuit. Good to indicate a complete circuit.

3. High Impedance (resistance / Corrosion). Load Testing or Voltage Drop is the only two ways to identify this anomaly.

Google: LoadPro for an interesting tool that works.

 

Has anybody thought to check That Mythical Fusible Link block thingy under the Driver side Battery/Airbox Combo,to see if it was Rotted out or something? Doesn't it control Pwr Mains to the Controllers in some fashion? I just saw that thread recently last week or so. Just a thought.....

 

yes those links carry all the power to the fuse box, but he still has power to the fuse box.

 

I understand testing procedures but saying that he should read "open" doesn't make sense to me if he is checking the continuity of the wire. If it is open there is no continuity. What am I missing here?

 

I just emailed you a pdf showing the locations of all the grounds. Looks like G100 is behind the brake booster along with 2 others.

 

Okay, Just thinking this out. (Dangerous)

 

Don't know if it has been mentioned yet, read a couple pages in the beginning and end. Anyways, check where the harness runs across the left hand valve cover. Sometimes they rub and short there and will not start. Did you ever get communication with your power train module?

 

Good eye! That should be OL. My bad! I think he was using OHM,

 

Got the drawing. Thank you very much. Ground is good. Lol. All that for a quick check. I never saw all those behind the booster. Thanks again. Back to testing. Get an IDM with my dually stuff tomorrow. Crazy if that's my problem. But can't wait to try it since all the wires are testing good so far. Can see idm causing the starting issue, but how can it affect communication. Unless the return signal line it has tells the PCM to continue on with start up or something. Who knows??

 

The IDM has crossed my mind more than once, especially since you seem to be finding the wiring to be OK.

 

Just a quick side note. A new user can PM after more than 5 posts and 10 days as a registered member.

I see you got the PM I sent you, and in looking at your join date of 8/16/15, you should have PM capabilities now.

Stewart