Someone just told me i need to put additive in coolant so the injectors dont rust. Ive never heard of this.

 

additive in coolant so you dont have cavitation...

 

You need to either 1) test and add an SCA supplement to your coolant OR 2) change the coolant to diesel ELC coolant. The ELC coolants protect your engine without the need for testing or adding the SCA supplement to your cooling system. I would strongly suggest that you change to an ELC coolant and add a coolant filter.

 

Ok thanks guys, will add it to the list lol

 

If changing to ELC has to wait, pick up test strips and SCA supplement. Check and charge if necessary. Do NOT let it slide, cavitation is nothing to ignore.

 

I guess i need to figure out what they put in it at the quick lube place, might bebon the reciept in the glove box, i keep records of everything. But my guess is its just standard green af. I had the whole system flushed and refilled back in april when i first bought it. I do all my own fluid changes, but i have dogs so i dont risk getting antifreeze on the ground.

 

Your cooling system requires special attention as to prevent damage to the engine - period !

Quick Lube and others do not have the specific required coolant to meet the requirements of our engines.

Not maintaining it will lead to Water Pump Failure, Pin holes in Cylinder Jackets, corrosion is water sleeves, degradation of Injector Cup Sealant, O-Ring Degradation throughout, and much more.

Whatever you use, regardless of Glycol OAT HOAT ELS's, etc.. YOU SHOULD BE TESTING THE SCA'S AT LEAST TWICE ANUALLY! as prescribed by IH. More often if towing and driving in excess of 15k miles annually, long idle periods, etc. Even the BEST ELC's have their limitations.

FWIW: Put in it what came in it. Read your Owners Manual to determine the correct coolant - Glycol or ELC.

Here is probably the most inclusive process I've seen to date:

**** ALL CREDIT TO "GOOCH" AND GOOCH'S COOLANT FLUSH PROCEEDURE ****

SUPPLIES:

* 4 gallons of anti-freeze concentrate (do not use 50/50 pre-mixed coolant).

International, who made the engine, and who’s engine your Ford cooling system was designed around, recommended a Heavy-Duty Extended Life Coolant (HD ELC) for all 2/2/99-up built engines SN: 940614 and up.

* International’s compatibility tests, all pre-2/2/99 build engines (pre-SN 940614) should use a conventional coolant with the addition of SCA (or a pre-charged conventional coolant already charged with SCA). Most conventional coolants will be green, "low-silicate" and meet ASTM D4985.

* Do not use "All Makes - All Models" coolants, or "Universal" coolants. They will not meet the needs of your diesel engine.

Heavy-Duty Extended Life Coolant (HD ELC), are generally red coolants with operation lives of 300K-750K miles/6-8 years, depending on brand. They are very robust and require no maintenance or additives. Popular brands include International’s Fleetrite ELC, Shell Rotella ELC, CAT ELC, Chevron Delo ELC, Peak Final Charge, Prestone Heavy Duty ELC, Zerex Extreme Heavy Duty, etc.

The Bottom Line here is YOU will have to make the decision to use or not to use what came stock from the factory with the Truck!

* Either a Nitrite only (DCA-2 SCA) or a Molybdate/Nitrite (DCA-4) SCA will work.

* Up to 20 gallons of distilled water - ** See next item.

** An RV Filter which removes particles, chlorine, and minerals attached to a Garden Hose works very well. Walmart / RV Service Centers / etc. Cost about $20

* A new thermostat gasket. OEM Part# F4TZ-8255-A

* Thermostat (OEM Part #F6TZ-8575-EA)

* Thermostat housing (OEM Part# F81Z-8592-AA)

* Upper radiator hose that goes around serpentine belt (OEM Part# F81Z-8260-CA)

* Lower Radiator hose (OEM Part# YC32-8286-CE)

* Degas bottle cap (OEM Part# F6DZ-8100-A)

* New coolant filter (if you’ve added one)

*Engine Coolant Overflow Hose OEM: F81Z-8075-AA (Hose on bottom of 8A080 to Lower Radiator Tank)

* Any hose clamps that you feel should be replaced.

TOOLS REQUIRED:

* 3/4" wrench for drain plug

* 8mm socket with ratchet and extension for thermostat housing bolts

* 1/4" Square Socket for block plugs

* Pliers for hose clamps

* Torque wrench to re-torque thermostat housing bolts

* Emery cloth to clean thermostat housing and hose connections

* Bucket and suitable catch containers.

* A Baby Pool works very well to capture the depleted coolant for disposal.

* Funnel

FLUSHING PROCEDURE:

* Park truck on level surface. Allow to cool.

* Remove degas bottle cap slowly (be careful if hot).

* Use 3/4" wrench to loosen radiator drain valve (bottom left-hand driver’s side).

Drain into suitable container. Expect at least a 5-gallon bucket-full.

* Remove lower radiator hose (at radiator) and drain any sediment and/or coolant from radiator and hose into container.

* Remove driver’s side block plug with 1/4" socket wrench driver, and drain coolant into suitable container.

* Remove passenger’s side block plug with 1/4" socket wrench driver, and drain coolant into suitable container. This is best done without an extension on the wrench, working under the truck from the top rear side of starter - no need to remove starter.

* Re-install both block plugs finger-tight.

* Re-install lower radiator hose temporarily.

* Close radiator drain valve.

* Remove thermostat housing and thermostat.

* Re-install thermostat housing without thermostat, using old gasket (it’s ok if it leaks a little while flushing and running engine).

* Remove heater hose at passenger’s side coming off the engine (just below intercooler tube).

* Install that heater hose to one end of the 5/8" flush "T".

* Install 1 1/2 foot of 5/8" hose to other end of flush "T".

* Install the remaining end of the 5/8" hose to fitting where the original hose was removed from the engine.

* You could permanently install the flushing "T" in the heater hose if desired. The heater hose removed in this procedure is the one consistent with what you’ll find on the flush "T" directions. However, you could install the "T" on either heater hose.

* Install garden hose onto flush "T", noting the direction of one way valve.

* Turn garden hose on until clear water (no green tint) runs (backflush’s) out of top of degas bottle. This will take several minutes.

* With hose still on, start and run engine for a couple of minutes, again until water coming out of degas bottle is clear (no green tint). Minor water leaks and spray from fan are normal.

* Turn engine off. Turn garden hose off.

* Drain radiator at drain valve, remove both block plugs, and remove lower radiator hose.

* Remove flushing "T", the extra 5/8" hose, and reinstall the original heater hose back onto engine.

* Close radiator drain valve, reinstall and finger-tighten both block plugs, reinstall lower radiator hose (permanently).

* Fill system with distilled water until the degas bottle is full.

* Run engine a couple of minutes.

* Drain radiator at drain valve, remove both block plugs.

* Close radiator drain, reinstall and finger-tighten both block plugs.

* Again, fill degas bottle with distilled water.

* Run engine a couple of minutes.

* Drain radiator at drain valve, remove both block plugs.
(You may decide to flush with distilled water one more time if your tap water is extremely bad)

* Close radiator drain valve permanently. Do not over-tighten.

* Install both block plugs and tighten permanently and firmly. Sealant can be used on the plugs sparingly, but it is not necessary.

* Install thermostat and new thermostat gasket. If reusing the thermostat
housing, use emery cloth to clean any rust/corrosion before installing.

* Carefully torque the thermostat housing bolts to a maximum 15 ft.-lbs. Do not over-tighten.

* Add 4 gallons of anti-freeze concentrate to the degas bottle.

* If using SCA, add it to cooling system per SCA manufacturer’s instructions (usually 3-4 pints). The only way to know is to test the system in a few days after driving.

* Add distilled water to finish filling the system until the degas bottle indicates between min/max.

* Replace degas bottle cap.

* Rinse off any coolant from engine and underbody of the truck.

* Turn in-cab heater valve all the way to "hot". This will help you determine if the thermostat is operating or if there is air left in the system.

* Run engine (or drive truck for faster heating), until thermostat opens and hot air is felt through heater in cab. Periodically check coolant level adding distilled water as necessary. If heater does not get hot (or stay hot), it may be necessary to rev engine or purge air from the cooling system.

* Add distilled water until level equalizes (min/max mark) in degas bottle (this may take several days). Another option is to use a negative atmosphere device to fill the system.

* Use test strip to test and add SCA if applicable.

* This method will yield approximately a 50/50 mixture of coolant/distilled water. It is always best to have the freeze/boil protection tested with a quality refractometer. Most shops will do this free.

* Write down date and mileage of coolant maintenance for future use.

**** ALL CREDIT TO "GOOCH" AND GOOCH'S COOLANT FLUSH PROCEEDURE ****

 

^^^^ Bingo. DCA2 or DCA4 and some test strips are what you need. Unless of course you are running an OAT based ELCs that don't rely on silicates to fight cavitation.

 

Wow, that flush procedure was alot to take in. But i will put that on the to do list for the very near future. I think i will add a filter kit too, for about 150 or so bucks it seems a worth while investment. Thank you for the info.

 

Partly correct. You can't test a Heavy Duty ELC meeting Cat EC-1 specs (the aforementioned OAT in your above quote) with a test strip for SCA's, since an OAT coolant doesn't contain SCA's.

For coolant flush procedure with pictures, as well as for all your coolant needs and information, please see the knowledge base thread I compiled here: Gooch's Coolant Flush Procedure and In-Depth Coolant Information - FTE

Stewart

 

Mr. Stewart,

You are partially correct.

1. A Dual Scale Refractometer measures both. They are about $100 and affordable. ps: Don't buy the Red & White Truck brand. They are "low quality" and twice the $$. There are also Strips made specifically for the others.

2. SCA's can be added to any coolant produced for motor vehicles.

 

OAT & HOAT coolants are still Ethylene Glycol based the inhibitor package is the difference.

I also could care less what IH has to say about our engine since Navistar (aka International truck & engine) made it, the IH name and tractor division was sold off in the mid-80's to Case.

http://www.caseih.com/northamerica/e...ompany/history

You can still check the inhibitor package on a ELC, it is just a different test strip than the traditional DCA2 and DCA4 type test strips.

PEAK COMMERCIAL & INDUSTRIAL | FINAL CHARGE | EXTENDED LIFE COOLANT/ANTIFREEZE | AVAILABLE PRODUCTS

 

Where can one find said test strips?
SC

 

FleetPride carries them, NAPA has them or can order them. Check the expiration date on the package before you buy them. Buy the small package, they will go out-of-date before you use them all.

 

Thanks very much.
David