Door seal installation
Door seal installation
I bought a door seal kit for my 1950 F1.
Doors body etc have a good fit.
Starting with my passenger foot I installed the seal.
It starts to bind with the door about 4" from the closed position. The door is not flush with the cab when closed now and is putting a lot of pressure on the door.
The original seal was in tact and he door closed tight.
Some suggestions I have recieved so far:
Tape seal in first to check fit.
Trim back of seal to get correct fit.
I was also told although some dealers say their rubber is an exact copy of original they may not use the same density ob rubber.
Suggested to cut the trim off, trim it and reinstall it???
What's the best solvent to remove the trim adhesive?
I'm not sure which way to turn, the picture below shows the new send old seal.
Doors body etc have a good fit.
Starting with my passenger foot I installed the seal.
It starts to bind with the door about 4" from the closed position. The door is not flush with the cab when closed now and is putting a lot of pressure on the door.
The original seal was in tact and he door closed tight.
Some suggestions I have recieved so far:
Tape seal in first to check fit.
Trim back of seal to get correct fit.
I was also told although some dealers say their rubber is an exact copy of original they may not use the same density ob rubber.
Suggested to cut the trim off, trim it and reinstall it???
What's the best solvent to remove the trim adhesive?
I'm not sure which way to turn, the picture below shows the new send old seal.
I have the same problem with my 56. Doors closed and fist nicely until I installed the aftermarket off brand seals that I received with the truck. Composition of the rubber is just too hard. After about four years the doors close almost like they should. Other two seal kits I've installed on old Ford trucks, both from known suppliers, fit correctly and doors close very well. I should have removed the hard seals from the 56 and replaced them with seals from a known supplier.
That's BS. I'll guarantee you Ford did not "heat" every seal on every truck they built so the doors would close. It's their excuse for selling a poorly produced product. They aren't even close to the same shape. My 2c.
Just called Softseal and the seals are supplied my LMC.
Not sure who makes theirs?
Dennis a Carpenter makes theirs from the original moulds as does Bob Drake.
Not sure who makes theirs?
Dennis a Carpenter makes theirs from the original moulds as does Bob Drake.
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I hate to throw sixty bucks away, so I'm going to see if I can improve the fit..
I used a heat gun to soften the rubber on the front edge and sprayed it with silicone before closing the door. Will see tomorrow if the fit improves.
I used a heat gun to soften the rubber on the front edge and sprayed it with silicone before closing the door. Will see tomorrow if the fit improves.
I installed the DC door seals and the door closes only with the latch adjustment all the way out. I can not close the door with the latch on the next "location". I am hopeful that the rubber will collapse some over time but no luck yet.
I installed new Dennis-Carpenter door seals on my 53 sedan two years ago. A good friend who has done a lot of door seals over the years told me to do the following:
1 Adjust the doors out when the seals were first installed.
2 Wait two months of Texas summer heat and let the seals take a set to the doors.
3 Re-adjust the doors and call it good.
My friend was 100% correct. The doors on my sedan close and seal very nicely now.
1 Adjust the doors out when the seals were first installed.
2 Wait two months of Texas summer heat and let the seals take a set to the doors.
3 Re-adjust the doors and call it good.
My friend was 100% correct. The doors on my sedan close and seal very nicely now.
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