You need to be doing the tests people are asking you to do. If that is your spread over 12 hours it looks okay. Park nose down, next morning pull the EGR valve to check for coolant. Post a picture. Everything OK? Change the thermostat and do a highway test for the oil cooler. Have you noticed white residue i your engine bay at all? Yes replace the degas cap, but you also could be pressurizing. Plumbing in a pressure gauge to the degas overflow line would be good to check the HG

 

I agree with Evan, figuring out your thermostat problem its paramount. I replaced my truck's oil cooler this year and got my thermostat from autozone, I went through four T- stats before I got one that would hold 190ish ( bad juju) also oil coolant temperature deltas are very important when testing for a bad oil cooler, but oil temperature high water mark should not be overlooked!

 

Ok so pulled egr valve out parties down hill theirs not like a pool of fluid in their looks pretty moist so I scrapped up some of that spot and you can tell it's wet. Where does this leave me? Yesterday I changed the thermostat and coolant flushed and oil change and fuel filters didn't find anything abnormal in them here a photo

 

Ok and for the first drive Got 196 ect and 204 eot and no I don't have any residue under the hood to indicate a bad cap but I replaced it yesterday as well

 

Got 10 miles at 70mph flat interstate I'm running 204ect 221 eot

 

Ok it's just a matter of time before the egr cooler lets go totally, try to keep those temps as low as possible, other wise you take a chance of blowing the egr cooler. Start saving up its time for a bpd (bullet proof diesel) internal oil and egr cooler, if you go to where the white misty smoke a piers out the tail pipe , then stop driving the truck, you will over heat and ? Blow head gaskets, hydro lock the engine, if this happens then definitely don't try to start the trucks .

 

Depending on the state you live in and what remission control laws are, you may want to go with EGR delete! I went with a oem Ford updated oil cooler, and I couldn't be happier!

 

Kk I'm in Arkansas we don't do the smog or emissions control I have the egr delete kit at the house and a oil cooler upgrade just been looking for the time to do it in. How long will that stuff take to do? Figure it be best to do them together gotta work next 6 days than I'll have 3 off should be able to do it than rite?also is their any tips or Turlock or unforeseen above that will make this process go any smoother? Special tools anything like that

 

3 days will be more than enough time to do the job, especially if you're not turning wrenches everyday( like me) , it took me a weekend. You should have turbo remounting kit, new banjo bolts to reconnect the fuel lines and that nifty little tool that holds the tensioner to take off the serpentine belt. Some guys do a coolant flush and use the old oil cooler as a filter before installing the new one. What do ye all say?

 

What part of Arkansas are you in Sparky? Maybe I can get some help your way.

 

If I had to replace my oil cooler again while the turbo is out I would have it freshen up with a turbo rebuild kit and possible unison ring replacement, upgrade the turbo oil supply line ( if the supply line was the braided type) and also I would have freshened up the IPR valve, there are videos on YouTube to show how. Since you would not be able to use the truck anyway, I would send out my FICM and have Ed. Check it out and put a 40 atlas tune on it..

 

Ok Guys thought I would let you guys know how it went. Took about 8.5 hrs to do wasn't to hard at all hardest part was getting the y pipe back on the turbo. I purchased a egr delete and the oil cooler got it all apart and found the egr cooler was already ballot proofed so I left it alone.. The oil cooler wasn't to much of a task at all... Got it all back together and took it for a drive and seemed to work just fine. Bout 50 mph back reading where I was running 10 to 12 degree difference now is 4-6 75 mph interstate the highest I've seen was 12 on a hill but averages about 10 difference. So guess it worked . Been 3 days and coolant levels haven't changed at all but today was the first day back to work so will watch it to make sure. Everything sounds cold unless you get on it a little and maybe nothing but still sounds like the turbo is leaking somewhere but not bad. But when it gets to about 20 psi it sounds like it might have a small leak somewhere. I've felt around the joints and can't feel nothing the y pipe is rite up against the turbo can't fit even the tip of a screw driver in the joint clamps are tight on y and down pipe and can't feel anything on the down pipe either any ideas of where to check or what would be a sign of a leak? But like I said I cleaned the turbo up so maybe it's just what a good clean turbo sounds like. Also had very little oil in the inter cooler pipe heard that's kind of normal as long as their isn't like a cup but thank to all of you for the help