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As a general rule yes Gold is what you want ( or red) and Green will destroy your oil cooler which in turn will rupture your EGR cooler, which will then Blow your headgaskets or bend rods and bad things like that. once the oil cooler goes the rest happens before you can stop it.
There is a Green that you can put in but since you didn't put it there assume its the bad one.
If you look into coolant additive the supplement package that you add
to gold as it starts to get low in some of the needed package components
you then put the supplement in and it turns the gold a green color.
Most feel that if your coolant had been long enough to need the supplement
additive package you should just go ahead and do a flush and put in new coolant.
When doing a flush there are a few different types.
Just a plain distilled water flush till clean.
Chemical flush that removes iron/rust deposits and also
the silicates from the system.
The last 2 are for oil cooler failure and has a detergent to remove
the oil from the coolant passages.
Then you have the last one to remove diesel from the coolant passages
from a cracked passage in the head. The diesel tends to attack rubber parts.
If you do a chemical flush you should know that you may have a oil cooler
that will need to be replaced do to being plugged with the crud that is kicked
loose with the chemicals. This is not a 100% given but you can almost always
expect it to need a new one.
Ask questions if you see something that was not covered enough
someone will fill in the gaps.
Thank you guys for the info. I just bought the trick less than 2 months ago. I plan on keeping it so it sounds like the best thing to do is the chemical flush. should I replace the oil cooler anyway? How do you know if it is going bad? Truck has 162K.
Thanks
Ted
Use your scangaugeII and determine what the coolant and oil temperature values are when fulling warmed up and driving 65 mph.
Post the results.
IMO doing a chemical flush can have the undesired consequence of plugging the oil cooler (and even plugging the new oil cooler after you replaced the original plugged oil cooler). If you have no significant oil cooler plugging currently, chemical flush is unwise IMO.
Use your scangaugeII and determine what the coolant and oil temperature values are when fulling warmed up and driving 65 mph.
Post the results.
IMO doing a chemical flush can have the undesired consequence of plugging the oil cooler (and even plugging the new oil cooler after you replaced the original plugged oil cooler). If you have no significant oil cooler plugging currently, chemical flush is unwise IMO.
Depends on your coolant and oil temperature differential. You need to monitor your system and post the results.
If the differential is less than 12 degrees at the conditions I posted, then yes, I would recommend flushing with distilled water.
Your cooling system capacity is 7 gallons. It is a challenge to even get 3 gallons on a drain. You will need to flush it multiple times.
Buy 4 gallons of the correct coolant in the CONCENTRATE form to add after the final drain. Add 3.5 gallons of concentrate, top off with distilled water and you have a 50/50 mix.
Ted,
Lot's to learn about these 6.0's and how to protect and prevent issues.
Here's a you tube video, part 1 on how to flush your system.
I'd start by watching him and DieselTechRon on many of their videos to help understand the importantance of monitoring your EOT's vs ECT's.
Also below is a picture of my Dashboss readings which I monitor when towing to ensure all numbers are within range.
As others have noted, there should only be an 8-12 degree difference between eot and ect's, depending on conditions.
I'm in the process of building up a motor to replace my blown 6.0, and I'm starting with the Shell Rotella Ultra ELC - it's rated for 600,000 miles or 12,000 hours. It's not normally stocked locally by me, but a Napa store near me had it in their warehouse and had it ready the next day. The stuff is pricey, but I feel it's worth the price if it holds up to the claims.
The word universal always makes me think of a "Fit 'em All" or a major
compromise. You need to know what your using and what is in it.
There a few good safe coolants to use. Myself I use Shell Rotella ELC.
It's red and easy to tell the level even in a stained degas bottle.
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