I have a 07 6.0 I recently got my studs done and BP egr cooler replaced. Along with all that I had my turbo cleaned. Just recently when I first start it in the morning or after sitting for awhile. when I give it throttle at 1200- 1800 rpms there is a howl. It is starting to get worse I haven't lost power or boost my temps and pressures are all fine. Thinking about taking it back to the shop that did my studs but want to at least try to find it myself. All my connections are tight no visible cracks or leaks. Any help is gratefully appreciated.

 

Did you have the up pipe or y-pipe replaced? It is possible that the bellows are going bad. It is also possible to have a leak at the up-pipe/egr cooler connection. You should see black soot in the area of any leak.

 

I did not have the y-pipe replaced I have looked around the exhaust connections and pipes and cant see any soot. Does not seem to be as loud when I have loaded a tune on.

 

Having just gone through this noise and tracing it down, check your boots carefully. I had the lower hot side boot slip out from the under side of the clamp loose and there was about a 3/4" gap. As soon as the boost got high enough, it would start leaking air out of the gap. Being on the bottom of the boot, I couldn't see it until I pulled the entire hot side pipe out, leaving the boot attached to the pipe.

 

I also have a howling sound between 1200-1800 RPM. It's driving me crazy. It's not a whistle or a screech or a loud rush of air. It's definitely a siren like sound or a howling sound. And I don't hear it while cruising but only when accelerating from a stop. Is that what you are hearing?

It's louder when the engine is cold and then goes away somewhat when the engine is up to operating temp. I still have my EGR valve and I noticed that when the EGR valve is active (when I'm back on my stock tune) the noise almost goes away but not quite.

I've tracked it down and the howl is coming from the turbo area. Not sure if you've tracked yours to a specific area or not.

I have replaced all of the CAC boots with Riff Raff boots. I've used a bore scope and inspection mirror and none of my up-pipe bellows, connections and etc show any signs of soot or missing gaskets. Even while I had my whole exhaust off to install a 4" catalytic converter I checked the blades on the turbine side of the turbo and they are perfect with no nicks, cuts, missing pieces or anything.

In all of my research on this issue I've found that "some" trucks make this sound but the majority of them do not. And this howling sound is not specific to only the 6.0's. It has happened on 7.3's, 6.4's and other non-Ford vehicles.

At this point I'm just not sure what it is. I know that it did not used to make this sound. All I used to hear is the normal whistle from the exhaust.
Since I'm starting to blow blue smoke I'm going to rebuild the turbo and while I have it off I'll inspect the bellows a bit better.

 

From another poster when I was trying to track mine down:

Sounds like you've got a bound exhaust with the work you just completed.

Here's a TSB for it. Most likely if you loosen the connections starting at the Y-pipe, realign, and retighten it will alleviate the issue.

6.0 Moan/Droan Between 1500-2000 RPM:





Engineering has investigated this condition and found the cause to be engine firing pulses causing the

turbo mounts to vibrate/resonate. For trucks built through 9-29-03 install a revised turbo pedestal, P/N

3C3Z-6N639-BA. Trucks built after 9-29-03, install a turbo bracket A-brace, P/N 5C3Z-6N639-BA. If

the draon is still present after installing the brace on trucks built from 9-30-03 through 1-17-05, replace

the turbo pedestal with 5C3Z-6N639-AA. Ensure the droan is not caused by a bound exhaust system.

Inspect for any damaged or broken exhaust hangers. Check the turbo downpipe by loosening the pipe at

the top and bottom, checking its alignment and retightening. If the droan is still present, check the part

number embossed on the turbo pedestal just below the turbo compressor outlet to the intercooler. If the

number IS NOT 1846207C1, replace the pedestal with the above part. After replacement, or if the

number IS 1846207C1, loosen the turbo inlet pipes and EGR cooler flange and neutralize by installing

the components in this order: snug the flange between the LH and RH inlet pipes; torque the EGR cooler

clamp to 53 in/lbs; torque the pedestal bolts to 23 ft/lbs; torque the turbo inlet clamp to 9 ft/lbs: snug the

inlet pipes to manifolds. Ensure all components are properly aligned. Torque the flange between the LH

and RH inlet pipes to 20 ft/lbs and the inlet pipes to the manifolds to 20 ft/lbs. Broadcast Message 0992,

SSM 17530, TSB #04-9-4 & 05-19-12.

 

Sorry for the late response was on vacation. Took the truck got all the way to Sonora and started seeing my oil and coolant temps jump from 198 all the way to 215 in a matter of mins. Wasn't even towing or going up hills. Pulled off freeway got off the pedal and my boost went to -2.00 and was still running hot. Went into the mini mart pissed as hell. Decided to try and make it to camp. I checked every connection no loose boots or soot anywhere to be found. Drove it home and 30 miles down the hill it started acting normal but still with the howl. im loosing power everyday parking it till I can tear into it this weekend.