Just a heads up, be prepared for an overheating head unit unless it has a plethora of integrated options for crossover, HPF, and multi-band (more than 3) EQ. I couldn't figure out for the life of me why my music would peter off and get quiet after listening at moderate to loud volumes for about 10-15 minutes. Right up until I realized that I had been completely overlooking the fact that the Excursion has six speakers, whereas damn near every head unit is a 4-chan. After fiddling around with the crossovers and HPF's, it no longer overheats. I also disabled some of the 'pro' features such as expanding the sound stage, as well as the highway levels. Those two alone made a drastic difference in the h/u staying cool and happy.

 

Yep (I also edited my original post)

 

Yeah, I understand the issue. In general I keep my system faded to the front. But, if the HU can't hang I'll just unhook the 3rd row speakers. If it blows up, I guess I'll get another HU AND unhook the 3rd row speakers.

I had some old SoundStream Reference speakers that were 2-ohm and ran fine off a couple head units I used them with. But, that was old-days Alpine, not newer stuff. So, we'll see what happens. I'm not going high-end with the HU, so if it goes up in smoke it'll still be less than a couple fuel-injectors to replace.

 

I hear you on the old school stuff, they aren't making car audio like they used to. It seems like what is comparable to old standards these days costs a bloody fortune as well. I lucked out and found a couple old school Phoenix Gold amps, they're what powers my subs right now. Had them on various other setups for the past 6 years and they've never let me down. Blown a few subs up, but that may have been more likely due to operator over enthusiasm

My Kenwood deck wasn't something insane, single-DIN and around $250-300. All depends on which injectors you're referring to for price comparison My 238/80's were about $250 a pop ($2000/set), stock replacements were $375 ($3000/set). So in the interest of saving money, I went big. Literally, lol. They're huge and the stock turbo can't keep up. /end thread hijack

 

You were running it at 2 ohms instead of the rated 4. Not aware of any 2 ohm stable head units right now. Used to be a few on the market, I believe pioneers.

Really, buying 8 ohm replacement speakers would be a solution. Using crossovers and level controls to limit output worked for you but won't work on all head units.

 

I actually used to work for Shawn at car tunes.

They do some of the best work in the bay and they charge accordingly, but I'm a diy guy and leave the really hard stuff to the pros.

I had 5 star car audio do the h/u install since I got it from them.

I plan on running my canton 6.5" components up front and some replacement pioneers in the rear passenger doors and not use the 3rd row speakers.

Don't care about having music back there since I really don't have passengers that far back.

So for my system looks like this:

Pioneer 5700bhs
Canton QS 2.160 components
Pioneer 6x8 speakers for the rear door (might go with my old school orion hcca speakers in the rear door)
US Amps 4300x 4 channel
US Amps Merlin MD2D sub amp (for now. looking to sell and get a bigger amp)
2 or 4 Pioneer shallow mount 12" subs (not purchased yet)
Second Skin (not purchased yet)


I've never been one for keeping stock speakers as the aren't the greatest speakers, but I will say that the factory speakers are really good.

If i don't rebuild my center console, I was going to build a box for behind the set the passenger seats and design a way for the box to swivel flat as possible so if i ever have to lay the seats down, I can rotate the box low as possible.

I'm not looking to **** the neighbors off, but I at least want it to sound clean and loud

 

What size subs are you using?

How does the bass sound with them that far back in the truck?

How are the doors handling the extra weight?

 

Very cool!!

 

10" subs. They sound great Matt and Razzi got to hear them. Doors don't seem to mind them. Didn't notice any change in the feel of them. Even though I cut the big hole in them the fiberglass box fits tight against the edges and the box has several bolts to give back the strength.

 

Subbass is omnidirectional so location isn't important as long as you keep your low pass crossover set to a low enough frequency (depending on the slope or steepness of the crossover, I'd start around 70 or 80 hz).