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Old Jul 29, 2015 | 06:08 PM
  #16  
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Do any of you guys have the NAPA part# you got? I am wanting to do this mod as well, but just a simple shut off valve, not all of the vacuum stuff. Thanks!
 
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Old Jul 29, 2015 | 07:28 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by BBslider001
Do any of you guys have the NAPA part# you got? I am wanting to do this mod as well, but just a simple shut off valve, not all of the vacuum stuff. Thanks!
BK 6601413 is a manual shut off for 3/4".

I thought our hoses were 5/8" but I could be wrong but that part # should put you in the ballpark lol
 
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Old Jul 29, 2015 | 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Jaime74656
well its not really going to matter to me, its more I want the arrow to poit in the direction of flow for the fluid (as the thing has a directional arrow) and figure if I know the flow that will help...I plan to add a second valve to isolate the heater block completely so no flow goes to it (yes I know I hear some already screaming "WHY?" it just makes more logical sense to have two valves to isolate the heater core compleatly and have a way to recirculate to the engine instead
Originally Posted by cj45lc
I hear you about the flow arrow, the valve I used had the arrow & I was like you & wanted it in the stream accordingly. I got the one I used from NAPA & just put it in the supply hose but they did have one that would have gone in both hoses & when activated would have allowed the coolant to make a loop through the valve itself.
I agree with you both on making sure that there is not a dead end for the coolant. I set mine up without a return to recirculate initially due to the fact that I was told it did not matter and I immediately noticed about an 8* increase in engine oil temp. I then put in two T's with a connector hose between them for the return to water pump before the valve and the temps went back down.

I may have to install an additional valve on the return hose from the heater core for the winter if I loose to much heat due to the bypass or just buy the NAPA part. I guess it will come down to which path provides the least resistance.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2015 | 07:36 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by jhl3
I agree with you both on making sure that there is not a dead end for the coolant. I set mine up without a return to recirculate initially due to the fact that I was told it did not matter and I immediately noticed about an 8* increase in engine oil temp. I then put in two T's with a connector hose between them for the return to water pump before the valve and the temps went back down.

I may have to install an additional valve on the return hose from the heater core for the winter if I loose to much heat due to the bypass or just buy the NAPA part. I guess it will come down to which path provides the least resistance.
That's interesting, I just have the vacuum shut off on the supply hose
 
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Old Jul 29, 2015 | 07:45 PM
  #20  
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Yes. I was going to do the vacuum mod but decided to use an electric solenoid valve instead so that I could have the choice of having no hot flow to the heater core at any time independent of the mix switch setting, that is powered by vacuum, on the truck.

If you think about it, the heater core does figure into the cooling capacity potential of the equation or else it wouldn't make a difference in the temp of the a/c when you add the valve. I do not have a complete map of where the water travels throughout the engine but placing a dead end valve in there may not be a good idea.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2015 | 10:47 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by BBslider001
Do any of you guys have the NAPA part# you got? I am wanting to do this mod as well, but just a simple shut off valve, not all of the vacuum stuff. Thanks!
I don't have a napa number but I do have the Autozone number, and I do have the single valve part number listed in my build thread, will be up dating it with a new part number as I just swapped to the four valve by pass one as the idea of coolant just being blocked at a dead end and building pressure (or lack thereof) concerns me honestly...so I would rather spend a tiny bit more for peace of mind...

Now I just need to sort which way I need to plug the valve up for proper flow...
 
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Old Jul 30, 2015 | 04:05 PM
  #22  
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Update: I sorted out the flow pattern (kinda odd but meh) so I will post a picture soon, as well updated information in my build thread for those interested in the info!!

Stay tuned for more!
 
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Old Jul 30, 2015 | 05:02 PM
  #23  
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Here's the numbered, Ford ranger auto zone# 748909 and ford part # F87z18495-AA. Hopes this helps guys. And the later trucks only shut off one side so that is know problem.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2015 | 05:10 PM
  #24  
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here are the Autozone part numbers that are neeeded for BOTH balves, first is the single valve, the secone is the dual valve (return valve)


Single valve:




Dual valve (return valve)
 
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Old Jul 30, 2015 | 05:20 PM
  #25  
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hope this helps you guys

the valve (labled with what goes where)
 
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Old Jul 30, 2015 | 09:29 PM
  #26  
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oh as far as the flow concerns they have been resolved thread can remain open for discussion of the topic as needed (or if needed)
 
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Old Jul 31, 2015 | 07:07 AM
  #27  
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If you still have questions, check out this great compilation that F250_ did. On the first thread download the Ranger shutoff valve pdf and theres 4 ways you can do this mod and it clearly lists each way.

Check it out, here.

It should answer all your questions and even has multiple part numbers!
 
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Old Jul 31, 2015 | 09:09 AM
  #28  
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I actually didn't do the write-up, and cannot take any credit for that. All I did was compile a bunch of info from several sources just to have all the input available at that time in a single reference document.
 
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Old Jul 31, 2015 | 10:25 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by F250_
I actually didn't do the write-up, and cannot take any credit for that. All I did was compile a bunch of info from several sources just to have all the input available at that time in a single reference document.
Re-worded my post
 
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Old Jul 31, 2015 | 06:44 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by F250_
I actually didn't do the write-up, and cannot take any credit for that. All I did was compile a bunch of info from several sources just to have all the input available at that time in a single reference document.
Pete I posted the image in this thread that identifies each hook up if you want to use it please do hope it helps
 
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