I would like to start by sharing my real world experience with a K&N drop in. Some might be surprised of my results and some will bad mouth K&N drop ins without any first hand knowledge other than I read it on the internet.

I have been running a K&N drop in for almost 5yrs and over 30k and from day 1 I wire tied the air box lid closed & sealed. Biggest issue with the K&N drop in is the air box lid leaks. Second of all a clean K&N that ISN'T oiled heavy will let dirt get by. I found if oiled good and heavy after 2k or 3k and alittle dirt on the filter it ran clean. K&N drop in can get the job done it used correctly for the application. If I oil my wifes K&N heavy on her TrailBlazer I will get MAF sensor codes so I have to oil that one lightly. It all depends on the application. I also liked that the K&N and stock air box did a nice job holding the noise down.
Personally I don't want to hear turbo noise I just want the turbo to help make POWER.

Would I tell someone to go out and buy a K&N for the 7.3 PSD NO !! But if that is what you have to work with you can make it work until you can afford something better. To me a noisy air filter that sucks hot air from the engine isn't better, Hense the reason I waited until I got my hands on a AIS


E99 K&N drop in 25k intake side clean & can still see oil

Same filter looked pretty bad and the air filter gauge wasn't even 1/2 way. But it did get to the point I was only pulling 18 psi of boost. OOpppss

Now this stock E99 WW has 219k, turbo has had 1 rebuild. Dusting is so slight it next to nothing. Oil reports come up clean. Also you can see my CCV catch can is doing it's job but still alittle oil get's by. I can live with it.


Here is the AIS to the left and the stock E99 air box to the right. I got this AIS with a good filter and intake tube for $35 and part a pinion gear depth gauge set for GM diff. I wasn't giving up my dial indicator.


AIS and you can see the catch can in the back.


Couple of guys had asked about my new puppy......well he is living up to the Bad Dog name. Actually he is a good dog but he is kinda a real pain in my rear !!! 8mths and about 65lbs He doesn't mess with anything in the garage but when I am working on something he comes and takes tools, bolts, rags that I am using and then runs away !?!? Last week I had to take the medal detector out to find a bolt for the wife's skid plate he took from me. I just couldn't catch him. He has ruined a few things in the house too !
He likes messing with me
But he is great with my little girl. So far has been a good guard dog, house dog and doesn't poop or pee in the house. Good thing or he would live tied to a tree if did that.

 

If I wanted the AIS filter mod where would (could I) pick one up and what is the AIS part stand for?


This wouldn't be the same system used in the m1A1 Abrams tank would it? As I am looking for the filter system used in that engine (it uses a 7.3 diesel)

 

Actually, I believe that is what the marketing material for AIS says, or at least something about the "same technology" as in the M1A1 tank. Of course, you aren't going to get the exact same part# as that. I'm thinking a tank, and F250/350 pickup are going to have some "chassis" differences that would preclude a direct swap. But I believe the AIS filter is made of the same material/media.
I kind of thought about the AIS, as I read all the doomsday messages about the K&N. However, I have yet to see a definitive answer as to whether the AIS can outflow a K&N drop-in filter.

As far as the K&N, I have one in my '00 F250 7.3L. It was in the truck when I bought it. The chip I have was tuned for it. I tried running with a stock motorcraft paper filter for a week or two while I got around to cleaning/servicing the K&N, when I first got the truck. I could feel a noticeable loss of power, and the truck smoked a little more in the tow and or 80hp DD tunes. That tells me for sure that the K&N flows more then stock, and that the truck wants that extra air.

As for the dirt leak issue, 1st my filter lid "clips" are not broken like some have found. Second, I agree that the K&N panel filter does not seal to the airbox lid very well. So, I RTV'd (essentially glued it) to the lid, on the "clean side". Zero possibility of any dirt intrusion/leakage from an unsealed lid. I could leave the "buckles completely undone and it wouldn't matter.

I have used K&N filters on a number of vehicles; all gas. Yes, MAF contamination is a real concern on vehicles that have them. But, knowing that my 7.3L powerstroke has no such sensor, I oiled the crap out of the filter when I serviced it. I turned both sides red, let it sit and soak in for a day, then did it again, for a couple of days until it looked like it wouldn't take any more oil.

No signs of "dusting"or any dirt intrusion in the intake ducting or turbo.

 

I understand there will be slight variations due to the chassis designs but for the most part is this the closest set up? As for the k&n which set up would you suggest? K&n or going with the AIS mod set up?

Are you going to continue using the k&n or will you be switching over to the other filter system?

 

AIS = the ford motor company severe duty Air Intake System.

It's a FOMCO part designed for the super duty.

The M1A1 does not use a 7.3l turbo diesel.

 

Yeah you're right. I actually knew that. I feel mighty stupid for completely forgetting. The Abrams tank has a gas turbine engine. I swear I actually did know that; I didn't just Google it.

BUT, I was right about it being mentioned in the AIS literature:
http://www.intellidog.com/dieselmann/AIS.gif

"same filter media used in the M1 Abrams tank"

 

Makes me wonder why it wasn't installed in the super duty to begin with....

 

I won't use an oiled filter. Not just because the air flow is slightly better with a dry media than an oiled one - which the dry media does flow better in all the charts I've seen. It's because of time: "Doing the laundry" is not how I want to spend my available time - but my time is a scarce commodity to me. If all I had was time, I'd view it differently. If I had a balanced amount of time and money, I'd use the oiled only if it saved me substantial money without damaging performance.

Better breathing with a particular filter cartridge in the stock box is not necessarily a good thing. In this case, the stock box has a reputation for leaking - working hasps or not. A leaker flows better than one that is not. Clean the element, oil it, then apply sealant to the rim to make sure it doesn't leak? How often are you doing this? That must be some miracle element to go through so much trouble. I had the AIS and I live in the dusty desert. It takes anything a chip on stock sticks can dish out, and I swapped it once a year at 20K miles (filter minder would pop).

I think it's Air Intake - Severe duty.

On to the soot. You're getting soot on a stock tune with a stock filter and box? If so, there is something other than a piece of paper in a box causing that. If this were me, I'd drop the oil can and pick up the spray bottle.

If it's sooting on a chipped truck, then we shouldn't be discussing anything that will fit in that pathetic stock box at all. This would be akin to discussing better nitrous oxide systems to get a ricer to pull the 5'er. The definition of laughing gas.

 

I can understand that you have more money then time. That will affect many choices one makes in life. I'm not in that position. Yes, I'm busy, and while I lack time, I lack money more so. The K&N was in the truck when I bought it. SO, unless I find evidence of it causing a problem, it will need to stay for the foreseeable future.
Also, you say you live in the desert. So, in your environment, perhaps the AIS was a better choice. Fine dust isn't really a huge problem for me in NJ. As I said,, I've seen no signs of any dirt intrusion in the intake ducts or turbo, so I think, in my case, the K&N is doing a sufficient job of filtering.

I cleaned it once, shortly after I first bought the truck (11/14). I've driven a little over 10k. I will probably clean it again in a couple of months, just to get it done before the weather get cold again. So, figure approx. once a year, so not all that time consuming. I may even leave it "glued" to the airbox lid. I can easily just remove the rubber tube from the lid, and still flush it from the clean side.

I said I would get more soot in the tow and econo TUNES (which were tuned for the K&N according to the "card" I got w/ the truck) while using the stock paper filter, not while running the stock tune. There was noticeable loss of power in all tunes as well, vs the K&N. Of course, we now know the truck had other issues, so I'll see what happens once I get it running again.

Now that's funny. And we all know there is probably at least one person out there who has actually tried it...

 

I think it's Air Intake - Severe duty.


Good catch Tug.

Thank you.

 

I am very familiar with the priorities involved when money is lacking. We have an unfortunate situation here, and I mention this only for the sake of sharing to the forum - not a form of chastisement or belittling a respected member:

Chipping comes last - after the truck is 100% and the engine is prepped for the enhanced performance. If one can't afford all the work needed before chipping, one certainly can't afford the chip and all that comes with it (possible soot, higher EGTs, added strain to the drivetrain, etc...). carguy3j - This wasn't common knowledge before you purchased the chip... or the truck came with the chip when you bought it.

With tight money, a 6637 will treat you better than anything that will fit in that air box. Tax return in hand? AIS for stock sticks is a "sound" investment - on many levels.

 

Both the chip and the k&n were in the truck when I bought it. If I were making the purchase decision, I probably would not have bought either one. The chip would have likely been a PHP Hydra, and I'm not sure what I would have done for a filter. But they are already there now, and paid for. So, absent clear evidence that one or both are causing a problem, it would seem to be a waste of money to replace/ change them.
When I bought it, and even up until fairly recently, it seemed that it was running at 100%; not having any prior experience to compare it to. I think the turbo refresh and ww2 probably helped to "highlight" some percolating issues/weaknesses.

Isn't the 6637 just a big round paper filter? I'm not really thrilled about the idea of an open element without a means of cold air induction, especially a paper one (water). Sucking in hot underhood air, while possibly advantageous in the winter ( for a diesel anyway), is probably not a good idea in the summer time. Also, I've read the 6637 is very loud. My truck is loud enough as it is. I don't need it to be whisper quiet, but I don't really want to increase the sound level anymore then it is already.

Do you think the AIS would supply enough air for my 180/stock nozzle single shots and stock turbo/ww2 combo?

Has anybody found a filter element with same material as the AIS, without the expensive housing/kit? I wouldn't be opposed to building a homemade CAI/housing around one.

 

You're in it now. Slightly bigger sticks than stock? S&B is likely the quietest CAI big breather you can find (at least of the units in the "reasonably-priced" column). I miss my AIS, but it wasn't up for the AC 160/100s with the 38R. S&B is pretty quiet at cruise, but a visit to the passing lane lets you know there's a turbo lurking under the hood. I think I have a link in my signature that covers this very issue.

 

I wonder whether your need for more air was due to the 38r turbo, more so the the sticks. So, maybe my stock turbo/ww2 would be ok with "less" air? I also have only purchased 80hp tow and 80hp dd tunes, so I'm not going to be utilizing everything those sticks can dish out. I'm afraid the clutch will be the next weak link if I push it much harder.

As for the S&B, it would appear they have discontinued the model you have:
1998-03 Ford F250-550 7.3L Powerstroke (Dry Filter) - S&B Cold Air Intakes

And replaced it with a newer, more expensive design:
Cold Air Intake Kit - Dry Filter

Personally, if I were to buy one, I would go with the oiled design. Then again, for $300, I can probably build something cheaper. It wouldn't be as pretty, but it would work.

I wonder what the difference is between there oiled filter and a K&N cone/cylindrical filter of equal size, in terms of flow and effeciency.

 

The OEM filter on a Ford 6.0 is the same material, and they can be had cheap and made to fit. Check this thread https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...ood-today.html


Don't get too worried about hot air from under the hood. Once moving the air is all ambient. Compare IAT to the outside air temp display, always very close.