Fuel gauge full question
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Freshman User
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Fuel gauge full question
2000 v10 f350 single tank...fuel gauge is stuck on full. I'm on the road so I don't have my drawings so I tried some quick troubleshooting. If I remember right 160k or so is full and 20k ohms is empty...so I unplugged the sender from the harness which should be open and the gauge should read empty. With key on its reading full. I then followed the harness and unplugged it near the brake booster...key on it reads full. Just wanted to make sure I'm not doing anything wrong before I rip the dash apart.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Tallassee, ALabama
I was thinking that 0 ohms was full and resistance would change the indication to some level less than full. I know on the older cars it was like this. The older cars you could ground the sender wire at the gas tank and it would read full and removed it would read empty.
It sounds to be like you may have a short some place inside the truck or a bad dash gauge.
It sounds to be like you may have a short some place inside the truck or a bad dash gauge.
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I'm pretty sure open will show empty, if that's the case then yeah it's bad under the dash or gauge...but that rarely happens. I want to be 100% sure it in there before I go digging. The other thing is I don't know how the slosh module is suppose to work since I don't have the drawings, pretty sure that powers on its own tho with key on
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 6,748
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From: Tallassee, ALabama
Not sure now, but older dash fuel gauges had a damper module wired in parallel with the fuel gauge. It would sometimes give gauge problems. The wiring diagram i looked at doesn't show the dash configuration just attaching points.
With ignition off and/or battery disconnected, can you ohm the gauge wire to ground and see if you register a short?
With ignition off and/or battery disconnected, can you ohm the gauge wire to ground and see if you register a short?
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2014
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From: CT
The full gauge sending unit on my '01 F-350 lost its connection, creating an open circuit. The gauge was constantly pegged on Full. Once in a while when the truck got really, really wet (i.e. driving down a flooded road) the fuel gauge would start working again for a few hours.
When I finally had the bed pulled and the corrosion cleaned, it fixed the connection and the fuel gauge started working again.
When I finally had the bed pulled and the corrosion cleaned, it fixed the connection and the fuel gauge started working again.
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In case anyone finds this post in a search, I was correct, well wrong at first but then right, grounding the sensor wire = empty, open = full. I'm on the road so I don't have a meter but I'm assuming the sender is open since I grounded the sender wire at the tank. Ordered a new one and should be at the door when I get home. Nothing like roadside troubleshooting with no tools or drawings
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