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Old Jul 24, 2015 | 06:21 PM
  #1  
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Radiator trans cooler lines

My tranny temps get a little warm sometimes and I noticed my truck doesnt have the transmission lines that go into the radiator, nor did the stock radiator have the ports. Now that I replaced the radiator it has the ports but I dont have the lines to plug them in.

Does anyone know where I can get a kit and a write up on how to connect the transmission lines to the radiator?

Please and Thanks.
-Kenneth
 
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Old Jul 24, 2015 | 08:43 PM
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A Ford dealer should be able to get the parts.

The line from the front of the trans goes to the radiator, from the radiator to the air to oil cooler, the to the rear of the trans.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2015 | 08:46 PM
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My truck is the same way, all 2000's are like that. I am going with a 6.0 trans cooler. As far as which line goes where, find a buddy with any year other than a 2000. The cooler is not directional, just cut the rubber hose add a 3/8 bard/barb and run the hose to the radiator cooler. You will need a fitting with another bard. Then run a rubber hose from the radiator to the trans cooler. The metal hose that goes to the rear of the trans is the return line. You only need to cut one of the factory rubber hoses, since the new radiator will be inline with the existing trans cooler. I would cut the pressure line from the trans (front line) run that line to the radiator and then run a new rubber line to the existing trans cooler(same place where you cut the rubber line to run to the radiator. So leave some room. The return line will not change. Also this is a great time to install a inline trans filter, either Magnafilter or NAPA has them also. They have magnetics in them to catch any metal.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2015 | 01:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Gatordog
My truck is the same way, all 2000's are like that. I am going with a 6.0 trans cooler. As far as which line goes where, find a buddy with any year other than a 2000. The cooler is not directional, just cut the rubber hose add a 3/8 bard/barb and run the hose to the radiator cooler. You will need a fitting with another bard. Then run a rubber hose from the radiator to the trans cooler. The metal hose that goes to the rear of the trans is the return line. You only need to cut one of the factory rubber hoses, since the new radiator will be inline with the existing trans cooler. I would cut the pressure line from the trans (front line) run that line to the radiator and then run a new rubber line to the existing trans cooler(same place where you cut the rubber line to run to the radiator. So leave some room. The return line will not change. Also this is a great time to install a inline trans filter, either Magnafilter or NAPA has them also. They have magnetics in them to catch any metal.
Not all of them, just clarifying for future readers. Mine and many other 2000 have the OTW coolers.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2015 | 01:18 AM
  #5  
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Originally Posted by kbarbee95
Now that I replaced the radiator it has the ports but I dont have the lines to plug them in.

Does anyone know where I can get a kit and a write up on how to connect the transmission lines to the radiator?

Please and Thanks.
Ok... here comes your part numbers for the Ford factory transmission pre radius bent hard lines that neatly and tightly connect to the new ports in your new radiator without large loops getting caught in the fan, and without pinching or kinking (since they are hard lines).

Part numbers are supplied assuming the new radiator is from Ford, and not an aftermarket radiator. There is no way to know what tank fittings an aftermarket supplier might provide. They could match, as that would make the most sense for selling the parts, but one never knows, so I begin with that caution.

If your radiator is a derivative of Ford Part #YC3Z 8005 BA, then the set of three lines that will make your transmission cooling system replicate the factory production fit of 2001 and later when Ford restored the oil to water cooler in production are as follows:

YC3Z-7A031-AA TUBE ASSEMBLY
YC3Z-7A031-CA TUBE ASSEMBLY
YC3Z-7R081-AA HOSE ASSEMBLY

And finally,

YC3Z-7N291-AA CLIP that retains the two hoses under the radiator support crossmember as they pass underneath on their way to the oil to air cooler in front of the radiator.

Don't worry if the part numbers have been superseded by later releases, designated by more recent prefixes, like 1C3Z or 2C3Z bla bla bla. But do indeed worry if the part numbers range with newer prefixes than the above, like 4C3Z or 5C3Z... as those are 1/2" lines that don't go to the radiator, but instead go to a filter block with push to connect fittings... completely different design... so don't go there.

Getting back to the list above, the 7A031-CA basic and suffix is the forward line coming out of the transmission, where the hot fluid from the torque converter is pushed out by the pump into the cooling circuit, headed straight to the in tank oil to water cooler. The advantage of buying this line is that it is all swedged connections at the flexible hose portion, on both ends. In other words, there are ZERO hose clamps in this factory line. It is a hard threaded connection at the transmission and at the radiator, and the flexible rubber vibration damping hose portion is swedged and sealed at both ends to the pre bent tubing. I get excited about this because I had a transmission line blow off at worm gear and spring clamp connections on other vehicles in the past.

I believe the 7R081-AA line is the cooled return line to the back half of the transmission, refilling the sump from the oil to air cooler.

I believe the third line 7A031-AA is the hard line output from the oil to water cooler heading up to supply the oil to air cooler.

I say "I believe" because I could have the part numbers to these two lines mixed, but I believe the foregoing is correct.

I ended up using the factory formed bends in my old removed hard lines to add an external transmission filter in such a way as to not cut any new factory swedged lines, and still secure the external filter against the frame, as opposed to hanging it's weight on the transmission line itself.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2015 | 02:24 AM
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I could get some pics of the line if you want, I have them out next to the motor.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2015 | 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by scotttahoe
I could get some pics of the line if you want, I have them out next to the motor.
If you have them out still I would like some pics please, if not then no worries
 
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Old Jul 25, 2015 | 09:39 AM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by Y2KW57
Ok... here comes your part numbers for the Ford factory transmission pre radius bent hard lines that neatly and tightly connect to the new ports in your new radiator without large loops getting caught in the fan, and without pinching or kinking (since they are hard lines).

Part numbers are supplied assuming the new radiator is from Ford, and not an aftermarket radiator. There is no way to know what tank fittings an aftermarket supplier might provide. They could match, as that would make the most sense for selling the parts, but one never knows, so I begin with that caution.

If your radiator is a derivative of Ford Part #YC3Z 8005 BA, then the set of three lines that will make your transmission cooling system replicate the factory production fit of 2001 and later when Ford restored the oil to water cooler in production are as follows:

YC3Z-7A031-AA TUBE ASSEMBLY
YC3Z-7A031-CA TUBE ASSEMBLY
YC3Z-7R081-AA HOSE ASSEMBLY

And finally,

YC3Z-7N291-AA CLIP that retains the two hoses under the radiator support crossmember as they pass underneath on their way to the oil to air cooler in front of the radiator.

Don't worry if the part numbers have been superseded by later releases, designated by more recent prefixes, like 1C3Z or 2C3Z bla bla bla. But do indeed worry if the part numbers range with newer prefixes than the above, like 4C3Z or 5C3Z... as those are 1/2" lines that don't go to the radiator, but instead go to a filter block with push to connect fittings... completely different design... so don't go there.

Getting back to the list above, the 7A031-CA basic and suffix is the forward line coming out of the transmission, where the hot fluid from the torque converter is pushed out by the pump into the cooling circuit, headed straight to the in tank oil to water cooler. The advantage of buying this line is that it is all swedged connections at the flexible hose portion, on both ends. In other words, there are ZERO hose clamps in this factory line. It is a hard threaded connection at the transmission and at the radiator, and the flexible rubber vibration damping hose portion is swedged and sealed at both ends to the pre bent tubing. I get excited about this because I had a transmission line blow off at worm gear and spring clamp connections on other vehicles in the past.

I believe the 7R081-AA line is the cooled return line to the back half of the transmission, refilling the sump from the oil to air cooler.

I believe the third line 7A031-AA is the hard line output from the oil to water cooler heading up to supply the oil to air cooler.

I say "I believe" because I could have the part numbers to these two lines mixed, but I believe the foregoing is correct.

I ended up using the factory formed bends in my old removed hard lines to add an external transmission filter in such a way as to not cut any new factory swedged lines, and still secure the external filter against the frame, as opposed to hanging it's weight on the transmission line itself.
Thank you for the in depth post, I may only buy one line if I can maybe rig up the rest. The parts for all 3 would be around $70-80 from Tousley Ford, so I may see if I can put some fittings and a little re-routing.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2015 | 09:43 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by Gatordog
My truck is the same way, all 2000's are like that. I am going with a 6.0 trans cooler. As far as which line goes where, find a buddy with any year other than a 2000. The cooler is not directional, just cut the rubber hose add a 3/8 bard/barb and run the hose to the radiator cooler. You will need a fitting with another bard. Then run a rubber hose from the radiator to the trans cooler. The metal hose that goes to the rear of the trans is the return line. You only need to cut one of the factory rubber hoses, since the new radiator will be inline with the existing trans cooler. I would cut the pressure line from the trans (front line) run that line to the radiator and then run a new rubber line to the existing trans cooler(same place where you cut the rubber line to run to the radiator. So leave some room. The return line will not change. Also this is a great time to install a inline trans filter, either Magnafilter or NAPA has them also. They have magnetics in them to catch any metal.
I may go this route, thank you I will get back to you all when I have some time to check out the truck a little more and look at the lines.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2015 | 01:43 PM
  #10  
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Just checking back. I went ahead an got a new radiator that has the OTW (oil to water) cooler in the lower tank of the Rad. My truck is like yours and it did not have this OTW cooler from the factory. I am going to run a 6.0 Oil to Air cooler, so I don't need or want all the factory lines. I was wondering if the fittings that are on the small oil to air cooler are the same as size and type as the fitting that goes to the Radiator OTW cooler? If so when I remove the old/small transcooler I can use those fittings in the new radiator, if not off to Ford or Hardware store
 
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Old Jul 29, 2015 | 02:16 PM
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This is a good informative thread.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2015 | 02:51 PM
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Well I ordered the trans to radiator line from ford YC3Z-7A031-AA and it was 34 dollars, Autozone has the same line but it is 44 dollars. Some times factory is cheaper and better.
I am just going with the trans to radiator line since I will be running a 6.0 cooler and the other line would not work for me.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2015 | 04:57 PM
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I'm sorry I forgot to post up the pics. Been a rough week. I can still get them if you want.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2015 | 05:28 PM
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No need to post the pics, my setup will be different since I am using a 6.0 trans cooler and it has 1/2 lines. I had to go to Grainger and get the 3/8 to 1/2 hose barb
 
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Old Jul 30, 2015 | 11:36 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Gatordog
No need to post the pics, my setup will be different since I am using a 6.0 trans cooler and it has 1/2 lines. I had to go to Grainger and get the 3/8 to 1/2 hose barb
Since you are doing the diy route do you think you could post pictures of your set up once finished. You'll have a different cooler but the way the lines are routed should be the same and let me know what fitting you used to connect to the radiator ports. If possible too, maybe a price range for the parts used(not including the 6.0 cooler)
 
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