Any idea on the insert? Im thinking it needs to be cut out, but I cleaned them up so I want to be sure.

Ended up getting an 8" long galvanized 5/8" bolt, only one at home depot that had an 2" shank. Just going to cut it down to 3 inches. Not graded, so we will see what happens. I think it will be ok.

 

Answer is Yes on removing the metal sleeve from the old sway-bar bushings.

You will never get the new bushing in with that sleeve in place. With the rubber out, you can just take a chisel and "fold" the sleeve in, and it should just pop out.

Installing can be done with a C-press (which you'll need for the ball-joints too) or you can make up a press with some all-thread rod, large socket, and flat stock to use as a "pusher".

has a special tool for installing the bushings.........but for just one or two times..........inventing what works is good too.

Correct on doing the ball joints and any tie-rod-ends that need changing now, as you will need the front end aligned, and doing all replacements one time, saves on the front end.

I hear you on the started to fix this, and then............

Heading to a job on Friday, front brake started grinding..........but the time I got back to the shop Friday night, yup, pad was steel on steel........back to the parts store for some rotors.........got into changing it all out.........Caliper was leaking on right side......... good news was I have a "parts van" so pulled the calipers off that for now.

One thing always leads into another.........

Kool on the '55 *******
My late next door neighbor had a '54 and was obsess on keeping it all original, which it was, I'm into the Renix era of Jeep MJ's, and a few of the '90's XJ's, but never have time to work on them Just keeping one '94 XJ up and running for a second (parts runner) vehicle.

 

Man I freaking love MJs!!!! Cherokees are a huge obsession of mine. First car was a 2001 Limited with 70k miles. So cherry, but I wrecked it. Then was driving a 2000 with 230k miles that my sister took to Washington state to school. Currently driving my 2000 trail rig as a daily driver (Dana 60s, 35" Intercos, 8" lift, yeah its not a good daily at all!)

Something went in the motor of my F250 at 202k miles, so my next project is to pull the motor and tear into it. Most likely ill just have a machine shop rebuild it right. Mileage is not good, but the truck is solid and paid for ( and comfortable compared to my built XJ )


Thanks for confirming the sleeve needed to be removed, seems like a stupid question now, but I have never touched something like this. It was a pain to remove those sleeves, ended up using a sawzall to split the sleeve, then heated them up and sprayed PB blaster. They finally let go and i was able to work it out with a pry bar. cut the inside a little bit, but I deburred the surface with a file. I think it will be just fine.

Here is my final solution on the lower front right shock mount.


I cut the bolt to 3", so I have 2 inches of shank and 1 inch of thread. The nut and washers are stainless. I ground the galvanized off the head sides and am going to weld it in place. I would have rather stuck a bolt with no shank through, immediately placed a nut, then the shock, then another nut, but then the shock bushing would need to be sitting on threads. In my experience, the bushing get eating quickly by the threads.

 

I'll agree that the rubber grommet (bushing) of the shock sitting on threads will chew the rubber up really fast, best with a smooth shank of the bolt.

The problem I see is, do you have enough space between the shock body and the radius arm with your setup?? Look at the OEM stud, and you'll see about 1/2" of space to clear the radius arm, unless your going to weld the head to the inside of the radius arm? There is really no load on that stud (bolt) as it just supports the lower section of the shock.

You mention your F250 with a bad motor, my preference is to get a crate re-man engine, seams like local machine shops run the price up, and most will not give any warranty with their work. Total crap shoot. At least with a good re-man, like thru LKQ, you'll get a 3 year warranty with the re-man.

Jeeps, yea, I have a few, not as many MJ's that I once had (14) only sitting on 8 now, but like I said, just don't have the time to get any projects started and finished now........dang day job The good news is, the price has double in the last couple of years, so........that's my retirement fund And all my are stock, MJ's and XJ's, I got one MJ that has a 3" lift that I bought that way, and going to keep it with the lift, but I have a D44 and the springs to go under it to make it into a "metric-ton" package.

 

14 MJ! 8 is still alot! Yeah they are definitely going up in price. I always thought about taking an MJ, putting all late model XJ trim, dash and alloy wheels, adding WJ grand cherokee leather seats and making a Comanche Limited of sorts.

I here you on the shock spacing, I did not over look it. I am sticking the bolt through the hole before welding, but there is enough thread to stack 4-5 washers. Plus I did not shave the stud spacer completely off and there is still a bit of an outward bulge on the inside.

MOOG balljoints came in today, was really happy to see they are still made in the USA. Just ordered all new MOOG steering Tie Rod Ends (was waiting on my dads approval, but he agreed, might as well)

Also, if you ever need clean used OEM Ford parts message this guy Scott. He hooked me up with a bunch of parts I needed and did not want to go aftermarket. From the rear glass, to the headlight buckets and adjusters, to the rear exhaust hanger. User name on here is REDOVAL.

 

Got some more work done on the van. I tell you time can do just as much damage as miles. Pulled the brake calipers apart today as I was going to replace the front soft lines (the rest of the lines will be replaced with stainless probably in 6 months). Very corroded and the cap on the Phenolic piston was almost completely gone. Not leaking at all, but brakes were already mediocre. I HATE waiting for stuff to fail. Ordered 2 from Rockauto for $42 each plus core, A1Cardone has a new premium unit thats powdercoated!

-replaced both headlight buckets, adjusters and bulbs
-Painted external trans cooler and steering cooler while I was up front. Also wanted to inspect the lines behind the grille.
-Installed new tailpipe hanger and finally finished up exhaust job.
-drained the rear D60
-removed rear lower shock bolts (still trying to figure out the tops...)
-Removed steering linkages and set up new ones to roughly the same length.
-Removed both steering knuckles. Waiting on a master ball joint adaptor set to show up tomorrow. Only ever used my C press on Jeeps.
-Finally, reinstalled the front sway bar. Poly bushings went in very easy with some bearing grease and a dead blow by the way.

Hover Van:


so much left to do!!!

 

Your right about the time issue, I think Cars/Trucks age in Dog years...........

 

Few more things:

New seat covers from Seat Covers Unlimited



Ball joints and new steering in. Even with the adaptor kit it was not easy. You want to install the upper ball joint first. You want to use the C press to pull it it (as apposed to pushing it). First knuckle took me 45 minutes because of this, just awkward sized ball joints. Also, Hanes manual for the super duty trucks shows the 2wd steering to come up through the bottom of the knuckle, but the taper is narrower at the bottom...guess its different for vans.

Top joint bolt gets torqued to 70 lbs, lower is supposed to be 150, but could not fit my torque wrench. I tightened it just a bit at first to fully seat both joints, then tightened the top, then tightened the lower as tight as I could get it with a 1/2" ratchet. Used a breaker bar to tighten it a bit more to expose the next cotter pin hole. First knuckle I did was really stiff, i loosened the top bolt, tapped the knuckle with a hammer a few times, and retorqued the bolt to 70, and it was perfect.

All tie rod ends are also about 70 ftlbs.



Welded in the new shock bolt:

 

Finally, actually got the front shocks installed. Entire front end is now coated with chassis saver and topcoated with rustoleum. I sprayed regular rubberized undercoat in the actual wheel well. Was surprised the OEM Motorcraft shocks were not completely blown out, the new KYBs are alot stiffer.

new rotors, bearings, pads, calipers. Really happy with the Cardone Ultra calipers, worth the extra few bucks for sure. The caliper at advance auto was actually more expensive, even with having to pay $6 each for core return shipping.



Also coated a few other rust spots that were still solid. Going to spray truck bed liner on the rear deck after I power wash more off the loose rust off the underside.








Hopefully will get the window regulator replaced along with the rear shocks today. And then the real work begins: