302 timing chain replacement
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302 timing chain replacement
Hi, What tools do I need to remove and replace the timing chain on my ford 302? I am still in high school and on a budget and have some wrenches and basic hand tools like sockets but that's about it.
Considering I am still novice at this is it even practical? I can do oil changes and I have changed u - joints and v-belts but that's about it. If I were to do it myself, what all needs to be removed, and how long would it approximately take me?
Considering I am still novice at this is it even practical? I can do oil changes and I have changed u - joints and v-belts but that's about it. If I were to do it myself, what all needs to be removed, and how long would it approximately take me?
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Freshman User
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Also, my truck is an '82. Were they still using nylon chain parts in that era?
Say I were to pay a mechanic to do it, what should I be expecting to spend? Of course, I would go with a good metal double roller chain.
Say I were to pay a mechanic to do it, what should I be expecting to spend? Of course, I would go with a good metal double roller chain.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
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From: Northeast, OK
Well, it is impossible to say how long it will take as we don't know what experience or knowledge you have. But I would say it is a full day's work for someone who really knows what he is doing. I would give myself two days, and I've been working on engines since the mid-50's.
Here are just some of the things you'll have to do:
Edit: The needed socket for the crank bolt is 15/16", not 13/16 as I initially said.
Here are just some of the things you'll have to do:
- Bring engine to TDC on #1 cylinder. This will require a large socket (15/16") and a break-over on the crank bolt.
- Drain coolant
- Disconnect battery
- Remove all belts to alternator, etc
- Remove upper radiator hose
- Remove fan
- Remove shroud
- Remove bypass hose
- Remove water pump
- Remove harmonic balancer. This takes a puller that you should be able to "rent" at a local parts store.
- Remove timing cover
- Remove fuel pump
- Check to ensure marks are aligned on sprockets
- Remove old chain and sprockets and install new - without turning the crank.
- Reassemble
Edit: The needed socket for the crank bolt is 15/16", not 13/16 as I initially said.
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2013
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From: Roseville, MN
I agree with Gary, I'd give myself a full 2 days if I was committed to getting it done quickly. But more often I wouldn't work on it full days and it would drag out to a week or more of part-time work (but compared to Gary I'm a newbie, I've only been working on engines since the mid-70s 
)
And I'll add a few things to his list (in red below). Not that they are necessary, but they may or may not help out.
Here are just some of the things you'll have to do:
)And I'll add a few things to his list (in red below). Not that they are necessary, but they may or may not help out.
Here are just some of the things you'll have to do:
- Bring engine to TDC on #1 cylinder. This will require a large socket (15/16") and a break-over on the crank bolt.
- Drain coolant
- Disconnect battery
- Remove all belts to alternator, etc
- Remove upper radiator hose
- Remove fan
- Remove shroud
- Remove bypass hose
- Remove radiator (not strictly necessary, but does give you more room to work)
- Remove water pump (this may well be the hardest part of the job, depending on how long it's been there and whether anti-seize was used it can be a REAL bugger to get all of the bolts out)
- Remove harmonic balancer. This takes a puller that you should be able to "rent" at a local parts store.
- Remove timing cover (This includes removing some bolts that go up into the timing cover through the oil pan)
- Remove fuel pump
- Check to ensure marks are aligned on sprockets
- Remove old chain and sprockets and install new - without turning the crank.
- Reassemble. Note that the bottom of the timing chain cover seals to the front of the oil pan. You'll need to clean both surfaces and seal it back up. Some people recommend pulling the entire oil pan off to reseal all of it. but that can be a bugger with it in the truck too.
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Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
10. Remove water pump (this may well be the hardest part of the job, depending on how long it's been there and whether anti-seize was used it can be a REAL bugger to get all of the bolts out)
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