Your chance to shine Experts How would one go about removing the timing chain?
What would I need Chain & gears anything else like seals Silicone ect?
What tools will be needed?
Would it be easier to work on the timing chain if I were to move the front-end & radiator out of the way?
I came across this..

• rotate motor to tdc #1 cylinder, (passengers' side front is #1.)
• unbolt the fan shroud.
• unbolt and remove the fan. now the shroud will come out.
• remove the water pump.
• loosen and remove the harmonic balancer.
• take a screw driver and pry the key way out of the crankshaft, allowing the crank spacer to come off the crank. might need to use a little light hammer persuasion to get it moving.
• remove the timing cover bolts. don't forget the 4 or 5 that enter from the bottom of the oil pan.
• unbolt the fuel pump eccentric
• slide the old timing set off.
• clean up the front end.
• install new gears and chain. and reverse the removal process.
  use plenty of sealer on the timing cover, esp around the bottom near the oil pan.

Is this correct?

 

sorry for the double post..

 

That will work. Be sure to get a straight up timing set.

 

You can remove the radiator since you will have to drain it and remove the lower hose anyway for this job. If you have AT, getting those little hoses and clamps off and on can be a beetch. Do it with the fan shroud off.

The bracket(s) for the alternator bolt to the water pump. Label what goes where when you remove because it's kind of a puzzle putting it back on.

Let me add, if you have AC and PS you are really going to hate this job! And when you're finally finished if it turns out the problem was something else - you are going to be really, really upset!

puttster

 

i would leave the radiator in , like said the trans lines are a biotch they rust in place and once you mess with them they break or don't seal .

 

It looks like its gunna be simple...hahaha

 

IIRC I ended up just cutting the tranny hoses and spending 89¢ at Autozone for one foot of new one. Still a tough job but maybe better than fighting with the radiator still in. Besides I took it down to the radiator shop and got it cleaned up so that gives me one less thing to worry about.

One other problem was my fan was stuck to the water pump with 60 years of crud. I WD40'd it, then took a 1 inch board, slid it between the pulley and the water pump and gave it a few rubber mallet smacks. Rotate, repeat. rotate, repeat. After awhile the pulley moved out a little. I slid it back, exposing the full clutch flange, which I then wriggled off. Then the pulley wriggled off.

And finally.... When you pull the water pump leave the little rubber hose clamped to a nipple so you won't forget to replace it when you replace the pump.

 

my 68 has metal lines all the way to radiator .

 

What is a "straight up" timing set. I see some with 3 way & 9 way adjustable keyways. What is the difference?

 

"straight up" refers to the cam timing being set to the "correct" position, as opposed to being advanced or retarded by a few degrees, which greatly alters the torque and power curves, which for some applications may be helpful, but not on a mostly stock system

 

so would a '70 390 be retarded or straight? I've seen 3 & 9 position timing sets. How do you know you have it set straight up?

 

I had to do the one on my 390 in a hotel parking lot a few years ago. Power steering but no a/c and a stick shift so no cooler lines. Tear down with hand tools, finding drain pans, hitching a ride to the parts store and all buttoned back up it took about 4 hours. Nice thing is the FE crankshaft pulley generally doesn't require a puller. That's another whole level of frustration when away from the shop and compressor.

 

what if there was no key? because....there was none on my truck hahaha!!

 

What type of chain you using? I'd go with a Cloyes tru roller like that book said. Then set it at the advanced setting for keyway as it has 3 settings. Stock chains are chit and have slop

 

take a screw driver and pry the key way out of the crankshaft, allowing the crank spacer to come off the crank. might need to use a little light hammer persuasion to get it moving.
there was no key...............