Problems with wiring (fuel pumps)
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Problems with wiring (fuel pumps)
Ok so I've owned my truck for less than a year its a 1990 F-350 crew cab with a 460 and E40D. My problem started out being that if I turned my lights on and hit the left turn signal they would all cut out and flash I replaced, bulbs cleaned all contacts, even replaced the turn signal switch. Then It began having fuel issues erratic fuel pumps, one would be running then cut out, so I would flip my selector switch to the rear it would run then also cut out. So I replaced the fuel pumps in both tanks replaced the fuel filters. It ran great for an hour. I shut it down came back for a drive made it 2 blocks and it started sputtering like it was out of fuel so I let of the gas coasted back, checked all of my connection between the tanks and the switch all were good. Fuel pressure was fine. I gave it the night, started it in the morning it ran perfect so I took it down the block and it immediately started sputtering again. Has anyone else had this issue I'm at a loss. I check the map sensor, the pip sensor even tried a new coil still same out come. Please help
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,635
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From: Lansdale, PA
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I suggest you edit the subject to something describing the issue.
So you fixed the electrical issue of it doing iffy things with lights and blinkers, and now you have an issue with fuel pumps running erratic.
Have you tried a new pump relay. And checking the wires into the plug. That's a common issue.
I suggest you edit the subject to something describing the issue.
So you fixed the electrical issue of it doing iffy things with lights and blinkers, and now you have an issue with fuel pumps running erratic.
Have you tried a new pump relay. And checking the wires into the plug. That's a common issue.
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Yes I apologize, I thought I stated that. I had replaced the relay along with the pumps. I also had tried to run a jumper wire from the battery so I could have 12v at the relay. As well I had checked under the dash following to the switch, before and after the jumper with no effect.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,667
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From: Easton,Ks
Sounds like you do not have a body ground.
If you replace the NEG battery cable did you run a 10GA wire from the NEG battery post to the body?
Also the large NEG battery cable goes to the engine block and not the frame. The frame does not need to be grounded unless you pull a trailer and use the frame for the trailer ground.
The Body ground (Note the image below is of a 92+ truck and your body ground location is in front of the NEG battery post on the radiator support):
The fuel pumps ground:
/
If you replace the NEG battery cable did you run a 10GA wire from the NEG battery post to the body?
Also the large NEG battery cable goes to the engine block and not the frame. The frame does not need to be grounded unless you pull a trailer and use the frame for the trailer ground.
The Body ground (Note the image below is of a 92+ truck and your body ground location is in front of the NEG battery post on the radiator support):
The fuel pumps ground:
/
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Subford thank you for the visual. I do have the ground in all three locations but, I made the discovery that I do have some corrosion at the frame and what looks to be a cracked wire to the body. I will check these and retest.
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