Are those holes in the picture above threaded? If they are, you probably need straps instead of u-bolts with two separate bolts, 4 total. I thnk autozone sells them but I don't know if they are the correct size. If you end up using bolts, you will need those little 12 point jobs, or you could use allen bolts.

 

The yoke isn't threaded, but the double-Cardan's spacer is. The bolts come through from the rear of the yoke and thread into the spacer. And, they are the 12-pointers.

 

Gary, with all those measuring tools, do you have access to a milling machine? You could take the yoke off the transfer, slot the holes and make it work. Looks like it would not take much to make it fit.

 

Yes, I have a mill - as well as a lathe. So I could slot the yoke. And the yoke will have to come off when I have it rebuilt so new seals can go in.

But wouldn't taking the ears off the spacer be more positive? It is designed to capture the bearing cap, and I can cut them off and then clean them up on the mill.

 

I would hope the "ears" would not bottom out against the yoke. Of course you could fix that also with a little machine work. The u-bolt will keep going till it captured the cap, the other two pieces might butt together too early.

 

The center section of a double Cardan definitely bottoms on the yoke. That's a bonus with double Cardans, you can't damage the bearings by overtorqing the bolts. And it captures the caps much more positively than u-bolts do.

But if you're going to the trouble of removing the yoke, I'd choose to just put a single Cardan yoke from an F-250 on it and use u-bolts with no modifying of parts needed.

 

I would be using the ears just as they were designed to work, although they won't be attached to the rest of the center link. But, they are what capture the bearing caps of the rear Cardon/u-joint in that shaft, and those caps are exactly the same size as the caps on my driveshaft. So, if it worked in the double-Cardan config, why not in a single-Cardan config?

But, I did think about using the straps. One method would be to just "resize" them. After all, I only need .050" per side. But, that could distort the caps as the straps wouldn't be pulling straight down but would be bending. So, your suggestion of slotting the hole sounds better than bending the straps.

 

Bob - The issue is finding that F250 yoke for a 1356. I'll do some searching, but buying the whole t-case may be easier.

 

I'm not finding the yoke for the F250 in my catalog, which only goes to 1989. Apparently they weren't yet using the BW1356 in the F250's. Or, if they were I can't find it. So, I'll send NumberDummy and email and see if he can help.

Along the way I found this drawing of the double-Cardan joint. #4782 is the item I'm talking about modifying.

 

HOLD THE PHONE!


James went to school to make drive shafts.He has books that tell you what kind of angle you need for optimal performance. The slip yoke can probably be sourced through Dana. You need to take your case and such yokes down to Inland. Have Chief pull the books and source what you need for the spline count as well as correct OD for the sealing surface or perhaps a different seal to accommodate what you have. A lot of tranny and T case seal kits come with multiple output shaft seals just for this reason.


My 96 F250 has the BW 1356 with a D50 up front. There is nothing , but regular U joints on both ends of the front drive line. It could be possible that the Double Cardan is a solid axle issue.The F350 doesn't run a TTB like the 150's and some of the 250's. Now mine is a supercab so it is longer somewhere than a single cab. However, the engine and tranny mount in the same place as a regular cab I believe. So the additional length is more than likely in the rear. The reason I mentioned that was to be sure that my T case isn't mounted farther back which would change the angle. The angle should be the same. IMO your F 150 shafts should work w/o a double Cardan ("H" yoke).


When buying U joints always buy Dana. The U joint on the front driveline should have the Ford specific crossover joint or as someone else called it a combination. Crossovers either have two different sized caps or could have a longer cross one direction than the other.

 

Bruno - Good info! But, more questions and thoughts:

First, what is the part # off your F250's 1356? The one off the tag? I ask because Bill/NumberDummy has responded to my email that it is not possible to look up the # of the front yoke w/o knowing the # of the t-case itself. (I was sorta glad to see that because I'd beaten my head against the wall for hours trying to figure it out myself. Boy, that parts catalog can be obtuse!) So, the # off your t-case is exactly what I need.

Second, what kind of rear output does your t-case have - a splined shaft?

As for multiple sizes of seal, are you saying that it might be that the kits come with a seal large enough to accommodate the smaller female spline on one of the driveshafts I have? If so, James could cut it down to length. If not, you are saying to take my t-case into Inland and have Chief find what I need. Ok, got it. Or, another approach may be if Bill finds the correct slip yoke tomorrow when he checks his stash.

Anyway, this is progress. I may have to make a trip to a salvage to see about buying a 1356 from an F250 as that may be the easiest way to acquire the front yoke. And, if perchance it had a u-joint style rear yoke it would be beautiful. Maybe the shorter trucks did?

 

Gary, If I can find where I put them I may have a pair of the u-joint straps that the later vehicles used instead of the u-bolt. Why not see if the place bruno2 mentioned has some, if he does and the correct bolts then you can sell the F-350 front shaft as all it probably needs is front u-joint.

The rear shaft I have here is the front of an F-350 crew cab shaft and I couldn't use it as the splines are larger that the 1986 one so I had my front shortened and re-balanced to allow for the longer E4OD. Output yoke is the same diameter for C6 and E4OD. If the front yoke will fit your setup, I can pull it off for you and send it.

 

Bill - I'm headed into Tulsa today, and may go to Inland (where Bruno said) and check if they have the straps and if they fit.

As for the drive shaft, the slip I need has the same splined size as the C6/E4OD, but a larger OD. So, if yours didn't fit your E4OD then it won't fit this t-case. Or, did I mis-understand?

 

It didn't fit my rear shaft, it fit the transmission just fine. So I guess I don't need to check it then?

 

I assume that means the splines are the right size for a C6, as is the OD for the seal on a C6. If that is the case then it's OD is too small, and I have several of those. Thanks anyway.