Drive shaft help
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 1,268
Likes: 35
From: Utica, Nebraska
Drive shaft help
Was having some clunking sounds coming from the rear end on the old F150. Bro in law said it was lack of gear lube and the rear diff grinding from the start. Wasn't the issue. U - joints are shot and causing the issue. My question is I marked the drive shashshaft and flange with a sharpie but it rubbed off on the flange from free spinning the rear end seeing if the issue was there. From the drive shashshaft to the rear diff flange does the flange need to be marked or no? I did scribe with a nail the transfer case and marked the drive shaft with sharpie. So is the flange being marked important or just the bracket with the u-joint? Would've used soap stone but don't have any on hand.
Thanks and I feel like a complete moron. Learn from my stupidity.
Thanks and I feel like a complete moron. Learn from my stupidity.
Super Moderator
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 34,518
Likes: 2,826
Replace the u-joints and put it back together. The phase issue is u-joint to u-joint. The position on the flange shouldn't cause you any issues.
If it has any fun vibes, rotate it and see what happens.
If it has any fun vibes, rotate it and see what happens.
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 1,268
Likes: 35
From: Utica, Nebraska
So new dilemma...no one has the u-joint removal tool which is essentially a glorified c-clamp...so any suggestions on getting the dang things out? The clips that hold them in are off just need a way to pop the old joints out and the new ones in. NAPA has a tool but it's out and they want an arm and first born for rent ($250).
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 1,268
Likes: 35
From: Utica, Nebraska
Well what a major PITA that turned out to be. Finally got it all back together now. The bracket on the drive shaft that goes to the rear differential flange has 4 bolts that have 12 point heads, so you'll need a 12 point socket that is 12mm. Those bolts should be torqued down to 87ft/lbs. Kicker is good luck trying to get any type of torque wrench on there with the drive shaft in place...not enough room whatsoever to get it on, let alone trying to use an extension to help. Dive shaft is just to big around to get it on there. So torque it down if you can with the shaft off the flange then try to get the U-joint to the bracket and drive shaft. This is where that glorified C-clamp U-joint press comes in handy at that point. Other wise, set the drive shaft in a vise (wrap it in a large rag or towel) use an old socket or impact socket that has a very similar outside diameter (OD) as the U-joint head, then take a hammer and give it a couple big wacks. Pull the U-joint head off and pull it out.
If you know what you're doing it should be no longer than an hour project. YouTube is going to be your best friend if you are stumped.
Thanks for the help.
If you know what you're doing it should be no longer than an hour project. YouTube is going to be your best friend if you are stumped.
Thanks for the help.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
longview1
Clutch, Transmission, Differential, Axle & Transfer Case
2
Jul 12, 2003 07:39 PM
